> Don't have car or tech manual at office, so don't quote me on wire colors: HOW DARE YOU! Always keep the manual by your side. I plan to make a small version like to contact Gideons International and have them create a pocket sized version of the manual like they did with the Bible. > Line into coil (+) should be 8-10 volts. Full 12 volts would > eventually barbeque ignition module, but is OK to jump temporarily to > start car. That's whole purpose of resistor network and start relay. That's about right. I did jump the transistor just to see what might happen and I got the same result. > Can't remember exactly how much lower, but coil ground (-) is less > than input. Remember that it's still hot at this point (actual ground > inside ignition module). It should be around 6-8V. I read 7V on it when I ran a wire from the left side of the coil to the engine block. Does this indicate possible ground fault? > Use Ohm setting on meter to test coil itself. Bosch is some fantastic > number in the thousands (9,000?). My Pertronix is 1.5 I think. I actually replaced the coil outright with a brand new one. Same result. > Test for HT with timing light on coil output, or old fashioned gound > to block test (that one still scares me. Shocked ever living mess out > of myself once. Have no desire to do twice). I did this as well. Tried it with the coil wire and got nothing. Then I ran a jumper wire to the block and looked for spark. Nothing. Not even a burp. > If your voltages are correct, coil is good, but no HT, ignition module > may be bad OR MAY HAVE LOST GROUND. Before declaring module hopeless, > run temporary known good ground. All 5 of my Lincolns have new ground > wires due to design flaw. DeLo may be comparable. Remember: it IS a > plastic car... Where is the ground for the ECU? > Oh, you could have distributor problem. Make sure sensor wire to > ignition module plugged in. Don't know how many volts it carries, but > should see some sort of reading if you pierce insulation. Didn't > forget to put rotor button back in? Yep, she's plugged in. According to John H's site, the pulse coil connection should have 600 ohms on it. I need to check this as well. > Bill Robertson > #5939 > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote: > > No spark = no start. > > > > I traced it back to the coil. I tried a new one just to be sure but > it was > > fruitless. Then I checked all the fuses. Everything's ok. > > > > When I go to start the car I am assuming I should have 12V across > the coil, > > which I do not at the moment. I checked voltage on the right side. The > > voltage from the resistor is ok and I have continuity and ground to the > > capacitor. The trouble seems to be on the left side. I've got > nothing coming > > from the White/Slate wire that leads to the ignition control behind the > > driver's seat. > > > > What are the conditions required to get power to that side of the coil? > > Maybe I'm misunderstanding something altogether. Can anyone shed > some light > > on this puzzler? > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=245454.3656312.4921743.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1457554/R=0/SIG=11c6fnta2/*http://ipunda.com/clk/beibunmaisuiyui wabei> <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=245454.3656312.4921743.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1457554/rand=784260430> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
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