[DMCForum] Re: Bill's Distributor
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[DMCForum] Re: Bill's Distributor



I'll try it both ways if I have to. I'll keep it stock for now. 

I'm going to clean up my grounds. The starter still turns too slowly 
and the battery won't charge and both are new. I haven't even really 
used the starter that much yet so I don't see how I could have smoked 
it already.

Mike Cohee warned me about this. I should have done it then.

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> 
wrote:
> 10 degrees actually...
> 
> Tried it Martin's way, but a valve cover casting or some such
> interfered with distributor rotation before time reached (of course 
at
> that time I might still have been shooting for 13 degrees -- pre-
Darren).
> 
> I rotated engine (with socket wrench) to 10 degrees, then stuck
> distributor so that rotor was basically at #1 terminal. Worked
> excellent (final timed with light).
> 
> Speaking of 10 degrees: My PRV is only 2.5 liters (engine code
> according to Darren B). Translates into 151 CID. Bit small, 
especially
> for a 3000 lbs sports car, yet I still hold my own with 2.8 liter
> crowd. Wonder if reduced time makes the difference? (less resistance
> from explosion against piston upstroke). 
> 
> Note I am running high voltage ignition. Final fuel burn may be
> comparable to earlier low voltage spark. Am sure my late time is 
what
> got me into octane trouble in 100 degree heat on I-95 (plus my 
vacuum
> advance is taken before throttle plates -- much lower than stock 
DeLo
> at partial throttle).
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > What I mean is, do you set the crank at the "0" mark, or 13 
degrees, 
> > and then set the rotor to the notch on the dizzy body?
> > 
> > It's the crank setting I'm interested in. Apparently Bill sets 
his 
> > crank mark to 13 degrees.
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski 
<webmaster@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > I set it to the notch, then you have more than enough 
adjustment 
> > either 
> > > way. Bearing in mind that the more you advance it (up to a 
point) 
> > the 
> > > faster the engine runs and this creates the mechanical advance 
> > > internally to the distrubutor, so at the limit of movement, 
it's 
> > > coughing away at some 18 degrees.
> > > 
> > > Just been setting ours up in the last couple of hours and it 
runs 
> > > sweetly at 0 but of course no power. It's running best at 9-10 
> > degrees 
> > > but we've dropped in a different dizzy and changed the vac 
advance.
> > > 
> > > It started with very little trouble, though.... :-( It DID need 
12v 
> > > across the coil but it's back on the resistors now and running 
fine.
> > > 
> > > Martin
> > > 
> > > cruznmd wrote:
> > > 
> > > >Martin,
> > > >
> > > >I have this question in my head now:
> > > >
> > > >At the end of your procedure, you said to get the #1 piston at 
TDC 
> > > >and install the distributor. (Which is what I did yesterday)
> > > >
> > > >The engine is set to run at 13 degrees BTDC. Shouldn't I have 
> > rotated 
> > > >the engine until is was at 13 degrees BTDC instead of at 
dead "0"?
> > > >
> > > >Then I would be 13 degrees too far advanced and the dizzy only 
> > swings 
> > > >about 15 degrees each direction so I'd almost be out of room 
for 
> > > >adjustment.
> > > >
> > > >Both of my books say to set it to TDC...
> > > >
> > > >Do you set to 0 or 13 when you put the dizzy in?
> > > >
> > > >  
> > > >



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