Hi Rich Okay, I've done the chains, and taken photos, but I'll explain in words because I'm not at my flat (going home tonight where my camera lead is!). You get the crankshaft rotated to the keyway points to the RH camshaft. The timing mark which is on the middle sprocket on the crank points roughly skywards. Put the chain on so the single timing mark aligns with the timing mark on the middle crankshaft sprocket. Then by slotting the camshaft sprocket into the chain so the timing mark on that lies between the double marks on the chain, you can rest the camshaft sprocket on the end of the cam and rotate the crank till the camshaft sprocket slots into its locking slot. This last bit is how I do it because no matter how hard to try, you never get the blasted pin lining up on the camshaft sprocket! Now put in the chain guides and you can forget about the RH chain. Now rotate the crankshaft so the timing mark (NOT the keyway) points to the lower oil pump mountig bolt - roughly half-past-four. This does not have to be accurate. Now drop the chain over the middle sprocket so the single timing mark on the chain aligns with the mark on the sprocket. Now drop the camshaft sprocket into the chain so the two marks on the chain sit either side of the mark on the sprocket. Again by resting the sprocket on the end of the camshaft, you can rotate the assembly around by turning the crankshaft, till the locking pin drops into the slot on the camshaft. When you see the pictures, you'll see that by this point, ont he engine I'm working on today, the timing mark on the crank end has already left the crankshaft sprocket. Now put the chain guides back in. When I first did the job, I spent ages getting the camshaft slot to line up properly so I could put both chains on with the marks as they appear in the manual. The problem is it's a pain in the arse to turn either the crank or the camshaft to the left - you always end up unscrewing the nut/bolt - and you can't just spin it round 350 degrees because you run the risk of hitting a valve on a piston. THEN, reassemble the oil pump chain and sprocket, timing cover, pulley and crankshaft nut. Now, an explanation: There are two timing marks on the pulley. We only use one of them. The camshaft rotates once for every two rotations of the crank. You need to get it so cyl #1 is in firing position. This means that the valves are both closed on cyl #1. For the valves to be closed, the rocker arms that control them will be clear by 0.1mm (inlet) and 0.25mm (exhaust). If you wiggle them by hand, they will rattle slightly. The inlet valves are in the middle of the "V" and the exhuast valves are on the outside. Explanation over. Now take spark plug #1 out. Drop a long screwdriver down the hole and gently turn the crank so you can work out which timing mark hits 0 on the timing plate when piston #1 is at the top of its stroke. When you have worked this out, and the mark is on "0" - watch the rocker arms on cyl #1 and turn the crank first to the left by a few degrees and then to the right by a few degrees. If when turning to the left, you see exhaust rocker arm start to move, and then to the right of TDC, you see the inlet rocker move - this is when the arms are "on the rock" and this means the piston has just finished exhausting, and started induction. This is 360 degrees out from TDC on firing stroke. Spin the crank by 360 degrees, and you should now feel play the rocker arms on cyl #1. You can NOW drop the distributor in so the rotor arm points to the mark on the body of the distributor. Make sure you get it so you can adjust the dizzy either way - you won't get it spot on, but you'll get it on the right "tooth" on the drive gear. Lock it down as near as you can judge it, and put the cap on. While at TDC on firing stroke, the following valve clearances can be adjusted: Inlet 1 2 4 Exhaust 1 3 6 Now rotate the crank by 360 degrees, and adjust Inlet 3 5 6 Exhaust 2 4 5 When adjusting the valve clearances, you have to get snug fit with the feeler guage - not too tight and not too lose - you will get a feel for it after a while. Too tight, and when you're adjusting it you will start to open the valves. Too loose and the valves will not open fully and for less time, and will rattle. Now reassemble everything else. Adjust the fuelling so the injectors "crack" when the metering flap is down by a millimetre or so. Jump the coil with 12v. Get a friend to turn the key and you reach down to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor and while it's cranking, start moving the dizzy around. You should hear a point where the engine is trying to fire. It may not. If not, try turning the misture adjustment screw another 1/2 turn to the right. The conditions required in getting this sucker started for the first time may be vastly different from what it'll merrily run at once it's fired up for 30 seconds or so - eg over-rich and over-advanced. Okay, I can hear my girlfriend buzzing the timing cover bolts on with the air-wrench from here, so I'd better go and check she's got the right sized bolts in each hole..... will post the photos later Martin PS no idea what "cylinder overlap position" is :-) cruznmd wrote: >Martin, > >I'm sure we ALL look forward to your photos of the timing chain >procedure and I thank you for them in advance. > >The more I think about it, the more certain I become that this may be >the problem. Why else would the engine be so hard to turn even with a >new starter and new hi-capacity battery? Harold McElcraft from the >DML also seems to think this likely. His explanation made sense to me. > >The thing is, I must not be very far off. If I was, the valves would >have struck the pistons and I hand cranked the engine at least 4 >complete revolutions to ensure that this wouldn't happen. Either that >or I'm nearer to 180 degrees off! That would suck. > >Something else that's kicking my butt, is I don't understand the >terminology used in the book to describe the valve positions which is >essential to knowing if the timing is correct. > >What does "on the rock" mean? What does "cylinder overlap position" >mean? > >Thanks, > >Rich > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=170512 6215:HM/A=1652964/R=0/SIG=11t2ts2ch/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=6 0178276&partid=3170658> click here <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupm ail/S=:HM/A=1652964/rand=386144269> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN