> do not use the readily available spray > glues that you can buy just anywhere as when the vehicle gets hot all your > work will be destroyed. Greg, Can you explain more what you are talking about? Do you mean that the glue lets go and gets sticky when it gets hot? I had this problem before with an aerosol spray adhesive when I put the dash together on an old Plymouth. It was just like trying to glue the panels together with corn syrup. I wouldn't put anything in the doors that could hold water. You would never realize how thoroughly wet the inside of a DeLorean door gets in the rain until you drive around with the door panels off. Each little drop at the edges of the window frame will hit somewhere and splatter creating larger drops that then drip again and ultimately soak the carpet. I ended up gluing a piece of shower curtain to the back side of the impact beam to work as an umbrella for the window motor. Since my previous HD window motor filled with water and rotted, I'm not taking any chances. I have a whole photo-essay ready to put together about that. This generally applies to a lot of products available over the counter. For example, spray paint is not as good as automotive paint you buy at an automotive paint supplier, which in turn is not as good as what is used on the assembly line. The EPA has a lot to do with this as well. The spray glue you buy in a can on the consumer market is not as high of a quality as what is used when a vehicle is manufactured. The exception to stick-ability being if you used the consumer grade glue to hold something on a piece that will be mounted in such a way so the glued covering is vertical, or horizontal with the material on top, you wouldn't have a problem. If you use the consumer grade glue to cover your headliner I can guarantee that it will be in your lap when it gets warm. Everyone I knew in competition had this problem but most of these vehicles spent limited time in regular use and being exposed to heat. There was one brand of spray glue I used way back then, that was at the time only available through a vendor, by the brand name Accelle I think. It was in a thin, blue spray can and held better than most others, just make sure you clean the tip really well when you are finished. The glues used at upholstery shops I have seen require a compressor, spray gun, and respirator although I have no idea what brand they use and when I asked they told me quite brazenly that I couldn't obtain it. My spray guns are for paint anyway. I also experimented with a glue from an air conditioning and refrigeration supplier that seemed to be ok but I didn't use it enough to really know. One thing we learned to do when you glue material on, use a hot glue gun and secure the edges on the back side to keep the material tight and in place. If the hot glue warms up enough to let go then you have other things to worry about, like how to put the fire out. Speaking of other makes, the new Lincoln Navigator weighs 400 pounds more than its Ford Explorer sibling. Most of this extra weight is supposedly due to sound-proofing insulation. Probably a typo, but the Lincoln Navigator is based on the Ford Expedition. The Mercury Mountaineer is based on the Ford Explorer. The Cadillac Escalade is based on the GM Yukon/Denali/Tahoe. Hell, even the new Hummer H2 is on this basic platform. Not only are they full of sound deadening material but a lot more electronics and "comfort" stuff that helps to increase the price exponentially. I could really get on the soap box about content and pricing with vehicles based on multiple platforms but I will refrain. Greg To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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