Re: [doc] -new accumulator update
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Re: [doc] -new accumulator update
- From: Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2005 20:23:21 +0100
Just to add to Nick's comments below:
> Put a fuel pressure tester on and test the system according to the
> book instead of second guessing what it could be.
Absolutely. This is usually a really illuminating experience and you
know immediately where the problem is before you spend a couple of
hundred ona CPR.
>
> What you have proven in your swapping plugs is that the 12v at the
> grey plug has run the cold start valve dumping some fuel in the inlet
> manifold.
>
> Make sure you get 12v at the CPR.
Errm - didn't you just establish this by running the cold start valve
off it?
> Measure across the pins of the CPR itself (about 20 ohms, if not then
> open circuit and it needs replacing).
Not really - it will just mean it warms up a bit more slowly, from
engine heat alone. Five minutes instead of two and you'll barely notice
any difference. It does sound like you might have a dodgy thermotime
switch but again, this will not cause the problem you describe of
stalling after a while
>
> Make sure fuel pump runs at all, bridge pins 87 and 30 at the RPM
> relay (large black with blue, 6 pins) to run the pump all the time to
> see if this starts your car.
Brown to white/purple, diagonally opposite one another on the plug. But
we know this works because the car runs for a while before stalling. It
sounds too consistent to me to be the RPM relay, but they can be wierd!
Simple question is: can you hear the pump running when you're cranking
and failing to start?
>
> Rough guide, gently press the fuel metering flap down, if there is
> some resistance then chances are you have fuel pressure built up ok,
> if it is very floppy then you don't have enough fuel pressure there.
> Get a friend to crank engine while you hold this down to bleed/ prime
> the system.
But let go the moment the engine catches.
>
> BTW the lambda system will run when the engine is running (assuming
> that the fuel eco is powered up from relay 12 that is powered from the
> RPM relay 87b) but it runs in fixed duty cycle until the lambda
> thermal switch goes off and the oxygen sensor is warm enough (about 5
> mins of normal driving, not idling). The frequency valve at the right
> hand cylinder cam cover near the bulkhead when looking at the car from
> the back should buzz when the engine is running.
Yep. If it doesn't buzz, there're two really simple problems that are
the most likely cause. One is a ground connection on the front end of
the right hand side of the intake manifold, just above #1 and the other
is the relay in the yellow socket is not a 2x 15A one.
The symptoms described do not suggest a lambda fault. It's either CPR or
idlespeed. Will it start if revved?
Martin
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