Fw: [DML] Re: getting body off frame

["Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxx>]

----- Original Message -----
From: <srubano@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 3:27 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: getting body off frame


> Required:
> -2 people (make it easier and you have an extra set of eyes to watch)
> although you can do it alone.
> -2 2.5 - 3 Ton rolling floor jacks. Again you can do it with only
> one, but it makes it easier.
> -15 - 20 cinder blocks (to keep the body on top of while you work)
> -a few lengths of 4x4 wood posts. The jacks have a limited travel and
> some of them cannot lift the body high enough to clear the frame,
> that's where the wood comes into play. Place them in-between the body
> and the jack.
> -Level area to work on
> -Patience!
>
> Body Removal:
> As always disconnect the battery before doing any work.
> There are a Total of twelve (12) bolts that are holding the body to
> the frame. They are as follows: two (2) are in the luggage
> compartment, each one located above the shock towers.
>
> Six (6) are located inside the car, three (3) on each side of the
> center console located near the seats. Two of those bolts (out of the
> six) are holding the seat belts to the frame. Once you unbolt the
> seat belt from the floor, pull back the carpeting on both sides (the
> bolts are located right near the seat belt bolt) of the center
> console and you will see the other four (again 2 on each side).
>
> Four (4) are located in the engine compartment. Here's where it gets
> tricky. There are two located on the cross member bar (see parts
> manual). Now from what I understand it is a common problem that the
> bolt(s) are frozen in there (at least mine was a few other owners
> have told me). Be careful removing these since the nut is just a cage
> nut sitting in the frame...you can bend the "cage part" (welded to
> the frame) and cause the square nut to just spin in there, you'll
> then have to cut the bolt and use a little ingenuity in getting the
> other half out of the cage (shocks are in the way). The last two will
> require the removal of the rear fascia. One you get the fascia off
> you will se two large openings on either side of the pontoon, the
> bolts are located in there. You'll have to stick your hand in there
> with a socket to remove them.
>
> Once you have the bolts removed, disconnect the following: Brake
> lines to the master cylinder, Clutch line to the Clutch master
> cylinder, Remove the leather gear shift boot, remove the front ground
> wires (bolted to the frame), disconnect the ground wire from the
> battery to the trailing arm bolt, disconnect all the engine wiring
> harness (behind the ignition coil cover), ground wires going to the
> engine.
>
> Jack up the body from the sides GO SLOWLY. If you use two jacks,
> place a piece of wood between the two and place them on both sides of
> the body under the seat area as close to the edge as possible
> (stronger area near the bend). DON'T place the jack directly in the
> center of where the seats are unless you want a floorless Flinstone
> car. Again, jack up the car slowly and EVENLY. As you jack it up
> you'll see that the body will start to rock from front to back...use
> the cinder blocks to prevent that by placing some in the front and on
> the sides (next to the jacks) as you raise the body.
>
> Is it necessary to remove all those things? Some are...but some you
> may be able to leave connected since some of the wires are long
> enough (since you are just lifting the body enough to get to the
> lines). When you go to replace the fuel lines, be prepared those
> plastic clips will break when you are removing the old line! I would
> suggest ordering all those clips holding the fuel line also, they are
> very inexpensive and I believe DMC Houston has them in stock.
>
> I hope this was semi helpful. I have a few pictures of me removing
> the body off of the frame completely. If you need any more help you
> can contact me directly by email if you like.
>
> Steve Rubano
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > Nobody has volunteered any info yet on getting the body off the
> frame so
> > that I can replace a kinked fuel line. I'm not out to completely
> remove the
> > two halves, but just get them far enough apart to replace the line.
> >
> > According to the parts manual there are a total of 10 bolts that
> hold the
> > fiberglass underbody to the frame. Is this correct? What else
> needs to be
> > disconnected in order to get the two apart? Brake master cylinder?
> >
> > <SNIP>
>
>
>
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