Re: [doc] re still doesn't idle ok
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Re: [doc] re still doesn't idle ok
- From: "blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 00:29:46 -0000
hi Nick
thanx for the post...i know a long one but here hoes..
earth check with continuity tester from screw into base to car body,
to ecu multiplug
connected test light to main power ecu multiplug...lights with
ignition each time (tested fuse-ok)
check throttle switch input before/after diode, continuity before
(with earth) non afterbut reads about 700 on doide test on meter
from your comment this looks about right but removed diode
completely to test further. does not activate continuity buzzer on
positive or neg current...thought it should.
have not checked coil to ecu or ecu plug to idle plug
thermister has been replaced a couple of weeks ago...reads about
1800 ohms cold so that is ok i think.
tried earthing the throttle input and starting the car....car did
the same...runs for 15 secs then chugs and dies.
car idles ok (1500rpm) with brass screws adjusted so i assume co
adjustment is ok otherwise it would not run?
so how do i check the input from the coil/distibuter (which i assume
gives the rpm signal (also runs the rev counter input?)
i'm running out of things to test but surely my problems are here
somewhere.
Regards
Steve
--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Nick Tomlinson
<nickandkathryntomlinson@xxxx> wrote:
>
> How did you check the earth connection at the ecu multi plug?
>
> Have you checked for a switched connected at the ecu multiplug
from the throttle switch?
>
> Put your multimeter to volts. Connect the red cable of meter to
jump start post. Use black lead to check for earth at ecu, meter
should read battery voltage.
>
> Put your multimeter to volts. Connect the red cable of meter to
jump start post. Use black lead to check for throttle switch input,
meter should read battery voltage with throttle closed (switch
operated) and no voltage with throttle open.
>
> With the ECU plugged in, check the multiplug that goes to the
idle speed motor, the centre pin should have 12v on it (with key in
ignition and tuned to position 2) continuously. The ecu momentarily
earths the outer pins to open and close the motor.
>
> You can check for continuity using the resistance setting on the
multimeter and check for wire continuity between the switched side
of the coil to the ecu plug, (remove the ecu first). If there is a
suppressor, temporarily disconnect it in case this has gone bad.
>
> The white lead from the distributor to the ecu is from the
negatively switched side of the coil. If this was short then the car
would not run at all.
>
>
> The Diode should be tested using diode function on the
multimeter ideally not resistance.
> Reading should be between 500 and 800 with test leads one way
round on the diode, and no reading (ie infinite) the other way round.
> The diode is there to stop feedback voltage going to this
circuit, as the throttle microswitch operates a couple of other
circuits too.
>
> I would say from your resistance tests that this diode would
appear to be open circuit.
> Temporarily connect this wire to permanent earth for idle
testing purposes only. Does the car idle now?? If it does then the
diode will need replacing. Note which way round the diode is when
you removed it and replace it with another the right way round.
>
> I am presuming that you have check for wire continuity between
the idle speed motor multiplug and the idle speed ecu multiplug.
>
> Have you measured the thermister resistance?
> Do this by using your multimeter on resistance and connect to
the 2 pins on the idle speed ecu multiplug. If you get no reading
(open circuit) then the connector to the thermistor connector plug
may have fallen off or the thermistor itself has gone bad.
> If you get no resistance, you can make some short fly leads to
enable the multiplug to be connected to the ecu by 2 pins (on the 4
pin block) and the thermistor ecu inputs to a 10 kilo ohm resistor
to simulate the thermistor. If the car now idles then this is the
problem.
>
> NIckT.
>
>
> blackaddertoo <blackaddertoo@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all
>
> an update on my idle problems
> idle ecu and idle motor checked and working by martin at DMUK.
> now removed motor, blocked pipes and adjusted screws...car idle ok
> at 1500 rpm.
> checked power to ecu ok at plug, checked switch ok at engine but
> diode reads no resistance either polarity. (should it?) n moved
for
> further testing.
> checked ground connection at ecu - Ok.
> put Eecu and motor back in, shorted the diode/microswitch input to
> earth...car idle 30 second then dies. exactly the same problem.
> removed diode short...idle 30 secs then dies.
>
> so i am left to check the input from the distributor (should the
car
> idle if this is dead and hence the ecu does not know engine
speed??)
> and if the leads from the ecu to motor are OK.
>
> if i put a test light on the connector at engine end and switch
> ignition, should there be a short positive signal on the one (to
> either close the motor or open?)
>
> then remove the microswith...do the same and the other lead should
> go positive.
>
> that is correct is it not, middle lead to motor is ground and the
> other run motor positive one way and positive the other to close
the
> air valve??.
>
> Thanx for reading this!! and sorry to bore you. i am determined to
> resolve this (and enjoy it really!!)
>
>
>
>
>
>
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