From: eGroups Digest [dmcnews@egroups.com] Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 5:34 AM To: David.Swingle Subject: dmcnews digest eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 5 new messages. Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=756 to read them. ----------------------------------------------------------------- 756. Ben Bentley [DML] Re: Air Conditioning / Clicking Noise 757. Mark Noeltner [DML] Re: Air Conditioning / Clicking Noise 758. a-brynp@microsoft.com [DML] Re: Where to place subwoofer(s) in my D 759. KKoncelik@aol.com [DML] Re: Door seals 760. volcom2@home.com [DML] i'm looking into a DMC-12 ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ message 756 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=756 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "Ben Bentley" Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:15:59 PDT Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Air Conditioning / Clicking Noise Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Actually most R134a Conversions only require the oil to be changed. Do do this properly you should change All the O rings, the System must be properly flushed of all old oil, the dessicant in the receiver/dryer or accumulator should be changed.(I'm not sure which the D uses). The pressures are also higher on a R=-134 sys vs. R-12. 190 psi or so high side on R12 vs 250psi or more on a 134 system. If done correctly a R-134a retrofit can be successful as I have done many. However. If you do not get ALL the old oil out be prepared to replace many expensive parts. I still go by my rule of Thumb. But back in what you took out. R-12 is still redily available and cheap compared to what it was about 5 yrs ago. If it leaked out. Replace the seals, add a ounce or two of oil and recharge. You'll have nice cold air in the hot summer. Ben Bentley ASE Master tech. Chrylser Master tech No D but maybe some day Supercharged '93 Taurus SHO _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 757 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=757 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:15:12 -0500 From: Mark Noeltner In-Reply-To: <374DBF94.2C58@wco.com> References: Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Air Conditioning / Clicking Noise Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree that new cars use R-134 and have cold A/C, but that is because they run larger compressors than earlier models. R-134 does not have as good of a cooling coefficient as R-12. Also, R-134 runs hotter than R12, so you can only run R-134 at approx. 80% of the pressure that you could with R12 to keep the heat at the compressor the same. That's why the newer ones have larger compressors. Combine these two things and you can see that R-134 in a system designed for R-12 isn't going to cool nearly as well. Now don't get me wrong. R-134 is fine and dandy for newer cars that are designed for it. It MAY be safer for the ozone layer (despite lots of media stories, the jury is still out as far as actual scientific facts). So I'm not advocating using R-12 in new cars. Just in cars that were designed for it. Mark N VIN 6820 At 02:56 PM 5/27/99 -0700, you wrote: >Actually most R134a Conversions only require the oil to be changed. I >am pretty sure that it runs at similar pressures as the R-12. A basic >conversion kit consists of the new oil, different fittings (for filling >and draining the system), and a few pounds of R134a. Also, the >performance difference between R134a and R-12 is very small. Remember >that all new cars use 134a, and their A/C can be very cold. Really, the >difference is only a couple degrees F, and r-134 is MUCH safer for the >ozone layer. Don't knock R-134a until you try it (or in someone else's >car). > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 758 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=758 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ MIME-Version: 1.0 Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 21:48:11 -0000 From: a-brynp@microsoft.com In-Reply-To: <7ifghm$faq7@eGroups.com> Subject: [DML] Re: Where to place subwoofer(s) in my D Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you everyone for the useful information. I have solved my problem as to where I wanted to place my subwoofer. Heading into the project I knew I did not want to have any of the stereo components on the cargo shelf or in plain view. All Modifications did not permanently change the interior of my car. Components I used. Pioneer CD player http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/car/deh-p8000R.htm Rockford Fosgate 400a4 http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/home/PressRelease/multiamp.html 50watts X 4 KICKER 12" Solo-Baric http://www.kicker.com/1999/subs/ required .88 cubic feet of sealed airspace. MB quart mids and tweets replaced my 4" and 4"X10"s http://www.mbquart.com/mobil/individual.html I mounted the speakers and the CD player in the respective stock locations. I placed the amplifier without the decorative covers under the spare tire. I used the crossover on the amp for both high and low pass. I bridged two channels of the amp for the bass and used the other two cannels (high pass) for the mids and tweeters. I decided to the utilize the locking storage compartment behind the drivers seat. Unable to seal off the storage area I removed the locking cover and drivers seat, masked off the interior with tinfoil, duct tape and a blue tarp. I used epoxy resign and fiberglass cloth to create the largest form fitting enclosure possible falling within the .88 cubic feet of air space required. I removed the partially complete fiberglass mold put it on a bench and added three more layers then cut off all the funky bits. I added three inch edges to the enclosure so I could mount the enclosure to the body of the car and a 19" X 14" 14" piece of 1" partial board. I cut a 11" speaker hole in the right hand side then rounded the perimeter edges. I finished the board and speaker by covering with a gray coloured speaker cloth. I mounted the fiberglass enclosure to the body of the car with 4 1 2/5" screws. I used fast drying silicone sealant to aid in sealing the board and speaker to the enclosure. I! ! used 8 2" screws to secure to the body of the car and the enclosure. I have pictures if any one is interested. This took the better part of an afternoon, it looks and sound very nice. ~Bryn ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 759 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=759 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: KKoncelik@aol.com Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 17:58:20 EDT MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Door seals Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One thing that most people forget also is that the headliners are 1/8" material as the standard. The replacement most people use is 1/4" This adds to the interference and new weatherstrip can be difficult and grinding definately extends the life of the seals and the headliner on the outer corner. It also looks better Ken ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 760 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=760 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ MIME-Version: 1.0 Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 21:42:10 -0000 From: volcom2@home.com Subject: [DML] i'm looking into a DMC-12 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, i'm relitvely new in the delorean area, all i know is the first time i saw one, my heart started beating faster, and i KNEW i wanted one, more like needed one! Well, i would just like to know any chronic problems with the cars, and what to look for and watch out for. Thanks for any help! Ryan Ansley Irvine, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ----------------------------------------------------------------- -- View the full archives, subscribe/unsubscribe, use the group calendar at http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews Manage your subscriptions at http://eGroups.com Free e-mail groups by eGroups.com. 
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