From: eGroups Digest [dmcnews@egroups.com] Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 6:02 AM To: David.Swingle Subject: dmcnews digest eGroups Daily Digest: dmcnews has 9 new messages. Click here http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=861 to read them. ----------------------------------------------------------------- 861. David Sontos [DML] Temperature Guage Not Working 862. David Sontos [DML] Door/Roof Seal 863. Mark Noeltner [DML] Re: transmision 864. William T Wilson [DML] Re: transmision 865. Lance R Haslewood [DML] 5-SPEED IS NOW A 2-SPEED 866. dswingle@enteract.com [DML] Re: Temperature Guage Not Working 867. magriese@us.ibm.com [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal 868. BRUCE BENSON [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal 869. DMC3309@aol.com [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ message 861 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=861 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 18:14:59 -0400 From: David Sontos MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Temperature Guage Not Working Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to Duke for posting that note about fixing dead temperature guages. Mine was pointing due south after one of my diodes came disconnected. A little nudge from a wire inserted through the odometer reset hole and it popped right back to 100. Dave Sontos VIN 02573 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 862 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=862 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 18:21:33 -0400 From: David Sontos MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Door/Roof Seal Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have removed the door/roof seal from both doors (part numbers 106967/8) because they are both shot. I am going to replace the rubber and rivet the seals back to the doors. But I have a question, what holds the other side of the seal to the "T" top? It looks like the rubber seal part is loose and slides under the "T" top section of the roof when the door is closed. Is this correct? Dave Sontos VIN 02573 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 863 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=863 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Sat, 05 Jun 1999 17:21:23 -0500 From: Mark Noeltner In-Reply-To: <7jbs85$kvsi@eGroups.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: transmision Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Based off the info I've found on this, there is no other transmision that would be a bolt in for the DeLorean. It's a modified Renault unit, with emphasis on the "modified". DMC Houston should have new transmisions for sale. Get their phone number and other info at http://www.usadmc.com/ Mark N VIN 6820 At 07:02 PM 6/5/99 -0000, marty_mcflyjr@yahoo.com wrote: >does any one have a used or >new transmision for a delorean for >sale please email me also is it save to use >other transmisions that isnt for a delorean? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 864 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=864 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1999 23:55:20 -0400 (EDT) From: William T Wilson In-Reply-To: <7jbs85$kvsi@eGroups.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: transmision Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On Sat, 5 Jun 1999 marty_mcflyjr@yahoo.com wrote: > sale please email me also is it save to use > other transmisions that isnt for a delorean? Didn't we just do this one? :} The DeLorean transmission was off-the-shelf, but only off-the-shelf if you happen to live in France. Neither the auto nor the 5-speed (you didn't mention which you have, and they aren't interchangeable) were used in any other US car, both were used in Renault cars in Europe. In addition, the final drive section is different in the DeLorean because the transmissions were originally intended for front-wheel-drive cars. Because of this, the final drive section was changed to make the output run backwards. So, the transmissions are quite unique. Fortunately, transmissions are readily available from your favorite DeLorean parts supplier. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 865 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=865 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ Date: Sun, 06 Jun 1999 08:37:07 +1000 From: Lance R Haslewood Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] 5-SPEED IS NOW A 2-SPEED Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Cole, It seems your problem maybe similar to the one I had a couple of weeks ago whereby the two pivot pins which hold the gear selector linkages together (beneath the console), work their way out causing the gear lever to become partially inoperative.=A0 I'm sure that this mechanical failure is not= uncommon and I certainly hope you get more responces to your problem and how to fix= it than I did!!!! Below is a copy of what I posted to the DML on 16 May which may give you a few ideas.=A0 =20 Lance Haslewood Sydney, Australia While out driving this week, I could not get reverse gear (5 Speed).=A0= After a little manouvering, I managed to drive off in first gear.=A0=A0 After= driving a short distance I noticed that the gear selector was getting aprogressively sloppy and eventually I could only select 3rd and 4th gears. Luckily we weren't far from home and managed to nurture the DeLorean back.=A0 Upon= investigation I found that the two steel pins which held the gear selector assembly to the mounting plate (under the console) had worked loose and the lever was= actually 'floating' .=A0 It was attached only to the selector rod. The fact that the pins had worked loose caused some concern.=A0 What concerned me most was the possibility of them working loose again and to determine some= way of preventing a reoccurrence.=A0 When I reinstalled the pins, I could not= get a tight fit which meant they would eventually work their way out again.=A0 To= fix the problem, I drilled a hole at each side of the mounting bracket above= where the pins slide through.=A0 I then inserted the pins and drilled into each= pin to about 1/16 of an inch.=A0=A0 The holes in the bracket were then threaded to accommodate a small bolt.=A0 I reassembled the the gear linkage assembly, inserted the pins and locked them in place using the locking bolts with a small dab of medium Locktite. Question .... has anyone else experienced a similar problem, and if so, how was it overcome?=20 Lance=A0 Haslewood (Squadron Leader RAAFRSG) 45 Fullerton Crescent BLIGH PARK=A0 New South Wales=A0 Australia=A0 2756 Ph: 61 2 4572 5281 (Home) Fax: 61 2 4572 5414 (Home) Cell: 0414 295 888 e-mail:=A0lanceh@zeta.org.au Web Page:=A0=A0http://www.zeta.org.au/~lanceh/ Ph: 61 2 9840 8409 (Work) Fax: 61 2 9840 8414 (Work)=20 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 866 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=866 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ MIME-Version: 1.0 Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 02:43:24 -0000 From: dswingle@enteract.com In-Reply-To: <3759A162.131C8AA5@sybercom.net> Subject: [DML] Re: Temperature Guage Not Working Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave Sontos Wrote: > Thanks to Duke for posting that note about fixing dead temperature > guages. Mine was pointing due south after one of my diodes came > disconnected. A little nudge from a wire inserted through the odometer > reset hole and it popped right back to 100. > Dave Sontos What diode did you discover to be causing this? I've been chasing this problem for over 2 years. My routine solution, suggested by the previous owner, is to slap the side of the binnacle just above my left knee until the needle unsticks. I'd sure like to have it stop doing this. It generally happens when hot-starting the car. I have cleaned up all the grounds, etc, but this still happens. Dave vin5429 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 867 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=867 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: magriese@us.ibm.com Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 15:01:27 -0500 Mime-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dave wrote: >I have removed the door/roof seal from both doors (part numbers 106967/8) because they are both shot. I am going to replace the rubber and rivet the seals back to the doors. But I have a question, what holds the other side of the seal to the "T" top? It looks like the rubber seal part is loose and slides under the "T" top section of the roof when the door is closed. Is this correct?< Dave - the top seal has a special shape to help it clear the t-section as the door opens and closes and to help it seal against the lower surface of the t-section. A flat piece of rubber won't quite work as intended. The seal looks something like this viewed from the edge: t-section top of door _____________ _________ \__/---+--- <-------- seal The seal is attached to the top of the door by as set of stainless steel rivets and a shaped stainless backing plate. The curve helps the seal clear the edge of the t-section as the door moves and provides some spring to keep the seal against the lower surface of the t-section. Mike Griese Storage Software Development Manager IBM Storage Systems Division Rochester, MN 55901 Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com voice: (507)253-1853 fax: (507)253-2880 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 868 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=868 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: "BRUCE BENSON" References: <3759A2EC.C173400D@sybercom.net> Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 18:34:16 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >But I have a question, what holds > the other side of the seal to the "T" top? It looks like the rubber >seal > part is loose and slides under the "T" top section of the roof when >the > door is closed. Is this correct? > > Dave Sontos > VIN Your right, it's not attached to the T roof. They are rather difficult to remove as they are pop riveted in place with stainless rivets. Hard to drill out and if you grind them out you have to be very careful of the torsion bars. A scratch on them can be terminal. Those seals don't stand up very well because they bend in half every time the door is opened and only contribute to the aesthetics more than anything. Any water just gets channeled away around the door opening. Unless your a stickler for a concours car it's hardly worth the trouble. Bruce Benson ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ------------------------------ message 869 ------------------------------ http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews/?start=869 X-Mailing-List: dmcnews@egroups.com X-URL: http://www.egroups.com/list/dmcnews/ From: DMC3309@aol.com Date: Sun, 6 Jun 1999 15:04:16 EDT MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: [DML] Re: Door/Roof Seal Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Your new seals come with the seal and a new stainless piece basically glued to them. When you put your new pop rivet thru the stainless piece it goes thru your seal and attaches to the roof of the door. This is what holds them in place. You have to remove the T-panel in order to replace the seals correctly. Robert VIN 3309 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ eGroups.com home: http://www.egroups.com/group/dmcnews http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications ----------------------------------------------------------------- -- View the full archives, subscribe/unsubscribe, use the group calendar at http://www.eGroups.com/list/dmcnews Manage your subscriptions at http://eGroups.com Free e-mail groups by eGroups.com. 
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