To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DELOREAN@SMTP (R. Haslewood) {delorean@zip.com.au}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Eastern Creek car show
Date: 25-Jul-99 15:24:29 +1000
>Hi folks,
>
>Just letting you New South Wales residents know that there is a big classic
car show at Eastern Creek coming up in August. My dad and I are probably
going to enter our DeLorean, so if you feel like going to the car show, be
sure to come up and say hi :-)
>
>I found out about the show in Unique Cars magazine, and here's the ad with
all the relevant info:
>
>>SHANNONS EASTERN CREEK CLASSIC
>August 14-15, 1999. Largest gathering of classic vehicles in NSW. Entry $5.
Swap Meet, trade displays, supersprint, 1500 vehicle display, etc. PH: (02)
9599 3726 <
>
I just got a call from Shannons, and as it turns out entry in the Classic
Car show is by invitation only. Apparently they send out entry forms to
certain car clubs which are affiliated with Shannons Insurance, so it looks
like we won't be able to enter our DeLorean in the show :-(
But, perhaps we should take the DeLorean along anyway and attract a crowd in
the parking lot...
R. Haslewood,
Sydney Australia
www.zip.com.au/~delorean/
VIN 10599
UIN 4316376
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From: PARAVERS@SMTP {Paraversal@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Looking For A Few Things
Date: 25-Jul-99 2:15:34 -0400
Im just looking for a few minor parts for my DMC. If anyone has one of these
and is willing to part with it, please contact me personally. Parts are as
listed below:
---ORIGINAL Owners Manual and leather case
---DMC Key Blank(s) Either original or remake will do....but I need
them within a week (that's the problem)
---Gear Shift Leather Boot (Grey) ...willing to trade for a new Black
leather boot?
---License Plate Bezel
Thanks,
Justin
# 6195
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From: RADDAD@SMTP {raddad@cmn.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Crash Test Video
Date: 25-Jul-99 9:29:27 -0600
All future expressions of interest in the crash test video should be
directed to the original poster: J. M. Rooney - - Email to
DMCVegas@worldnet.att.net
Thanks.
Dick Ryan
Moderator of the Week
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From: DSWINGLE@SMTP {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Where did the seatcovers go?
Date: 25-Jul-99 10:29:42 -0700
In-reply-to: <000901BED64732B8>1720$8e7087d1
The seatcovers were a project run by James Espey. Since he now WORKS for one
of the "major parts vendors", specifically DMC Houston, I'm sure his new
employer would frown on his competing with them. I'm not interested in getting
into the DeLorean parts business, so this part of the site is closing down.
I am now maintaining the dmcnews.com web page, and am slowly updating it.
These older references will be removed in time.
dave
mrcopieswrote:
> Just looked for James' seatcovers on the delorean.com site and noticed they
now say....
>
> No longer available
> Please contact your favorite DeLorean Parts Vendor
> Find it kind of funny because in the paragraph before this he makes reference to "..paying a Delorean parts vendor an exorbitant sum for leather seat covers".
>
> I was under the impression this was a great product! (Knut gave it a "thumbs up" in one of his newsletter reviews). What happened?
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From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] ADMIN NOTE: Attachments/HTML/Bouncing
Date: 25-Jul-99 12:36:15 -0500
Please DO NOT attach HTML or image files to your postings. Although this
works (sometimes), it really screws up the archives (looks like pages of
gibberish) , and anyone reading the mail on a text-based mail reader (such
as Eudora) gets a similar bunch of garbage. It also causes very large email
files to be broadcast (hundeds of kbytes instead of 1kbyte), which causes
many peoples' email servers to fill up and begin bouncing their mail.
Please just put in a web link to wherever this stuff comes from.
Moderators will be looking closer for this and will begin rejecting these
messages.
This seems to be a particular problem with Hotmail, at the moment there are
about 50 people with Hotmail accounts that are "bouncing" email back to the
list. When this happens egroups just stops sending them messages. If you
evern notice the list stops coing for more than a day, send a note to
mailto:moderator@dmcnews.com. We can manually reset you.
dave
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From: TOCCATA@SMTP (Rick Barranco) {toccata@magicnet.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Stainless Steel Cleaners
Date: 25-Jul-99 18:09:25 -0400
I have in the past used Netcare as well as other Professional Stainless steel
cleaners on my car and although I love the shine that and the fingerprint protection , the
only problem with it is that it turns the stainless a darker shade which I hate, so I have
gone back to the foaming class cleaner and it looks great (except for the constant
fingerprints). I'll try the sheila shine stuff, but in the meantime Does anyone know if there
is a stainless steel cleaner out there with the same properties yet doesn't make the car look
two shades darker???? Thanks .....
Rick
Barranco
"TOCCATA"
Vin
#3268
Orlando,
Florida
Brian Galbiati wrote:
> I work at a restaurant on weekends and in the kitchen we use (2)
> different kinds of stainless steel cleaner. They are:
> Netcare
> (Waterbase stainless steel cleaner)
> comes in 16oz. spray
> Manufactured by: Network Services Company
> Mt. Prospect Illinois 60056
>
> Sheila Shine
> Manufactured by: Sheila Shine Inc.
> PO Box 016186
> Miami Florida 33101
> This one I found works the best. Clean the area with soap and water and
> let it dry, then apply Sheila Shine, and it is like glass.
>
> Both of these products can be purchased by contacting:
> NOVA Equipment & Supplies Co.
> Pat Gavin is the rep. 1 800 366 0843
> or in Penna try (570) 824-9543
>
> Brian
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address moderator@dmcnews.com
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JUS4SHO@SMTP {Jus4sho@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: A/C Pressures 134a
Date: 25-Jul-99 20:44:31 -0400
I recently exchanged emails with someone from the list who gave me the rest
and low side operating pressures for an R-12 a/c system. I've misplaced your
email address, but would like to know what the same specifications are for a
134a system? (I've been told they're higher.) Please respond directly to
me. Thanks again.
Steve
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From: BRIANG@SMTP (Brian Galbiati) {briang@ccomm.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Stainless Steel Cleaners
Date: 25-Jul-99 22:56:45 -0400
I work at a restaurant on weekends and in the kitchen we use (2)
different kinds of stainless steel cleaner. They are:
Netcare
(Waterbase stainless steel cleaner)
comes in 16oz. spray
Manufactured by: Network Services Company
Mt. Prospect Illinois 60056
Sheila Shine
Manufactured by: Sheila Shine Inc.
PO Box 016186
Miami Florida 33101
This one I found works the best. Clean the area with soap and water and
let it dry, then apply Sheila Shine, and it is like glass.
Both of these products can be purchased by contacting:
NOVA Equipment & Supplies Co.
Pat Gavin is the rep. 1 800 366 0843
or in Penna try (570) 824-9543
Brian
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From: MALEVY@SMTP (Marc A Levy) {malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Stainless Steel Cleaners
Date: 26-Jul-99 8:37:44 -0400
I am surprised that NetCare would darken the color if it is truly a
water based product. Most of the cleaners I have tried are Oil based,
and I am very unhappy with the results. The oil film left over darkens
the color, and attracts dust and pollen. I would guess that NetCare (I
have never used this product) does have some oil in it.
I have used a cleaner by "Sysco" that is water based, but has oil in
it. While it is not as bad as the totally oil based products, it still
leaves a oil film behind.
The WORST cleaner I have found had been the "Zep" Product sold at Home
Depot. (I have 2 cans of it, if anyone wants them!)
As far as washing the car goes, I have used some mild abrasive cleaners,
and powders. All seem to work the same, and very well. The drawback is
that they require water. I would love to have a aerosol spray that can
be used at car shows. Michael Pack had some stuff that worked well and
the DeLorean Mid Atlantic door adjustment this year, but I have been
unable to find the stuff anywhere myself.
Until I find something better, I am going to stick with the mild
abrasive cream/powders, and Windex for fingerprints at shows.
When I purchased my delorean, I purchased a bottle of cleaner from
PJGrady. He said it was what was used for dealer prep back in 81. I
still have not tried it, because I am not sure how to "use" it. I also
purchased some aerosol cleaner from him. As far as the aerosol cleaners
go, it is one of the better ones I have tried but it still leaves a bit
of oil behind.
Has anyone used the "secret Formula" sold by DMC Houston? It was
mentioned in one of their mailings commercial mailings, but that was the
last I heard of it.
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From: MALEVY@SMTP (Marc A Levy) {malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Looking For A Few Things
Date: 26-Jul-99 8:39:31 -0400
Does this item exist? I have a gray interior, and pretty sure I have a
black shift boot.
Paraversal@aol.com wrote:
>
> Im just looking for a few minor parts for my DMC. If anyone has one of these
> and is willing to part with it, please contact me personally. Parts are as
> listed below:
<SNIP>
> ---Gear Shift Leather Boot (Grey) ...willing to trade for a new Black
> leather boot?
>
<SNIP>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("'dmcnews@egroups.com'") {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: PAA5072@SMTP (Fedeli, Joe) {paa5072@exmail.dscp.dla.mil}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Snow Driving
Date: 26-Jul-99 8:45:30 -0400
GREAT...I've done it...no problems.
-----Original Message-----
From: ryan arsenault [mailto:rybeth@flash.net]
Sent: Monday, July 19, 1999 10:26 AM
To: dmcnews@egroups.com
Subject: [DML] Snow Driving
Hi list, I always wondered how well a DeLorean performed in snow? I
realize how low to the ground they are, so if there are eight inches of
snow on the ground wouldn't it get stuck?
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP (DMC News list) {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: WATBMV@SMTP (Watkins Family) {watbmv@megalink.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Steering wheel aligment
Date: 26-Jul-99 8:57:08 -0400
With advise from Joe at DMC services I successfully replaced my steering
column bushing! I have only one minor problem. I"m afraid to ask this
BUT.........I didn't quite line up the column spline with the upper
universal joint when reinstalling the column and now the steering wheel
is a tad off center when traveling perfectly straight. Please don't
tell me I have to remove the column again ( taking off trim pads etc...)
to get the wheel straight as dealing with the collapsing bar was a
challenge. Trying to get it through the new bushing wasn't easy without
it pushing in. I finally took a small vise grip and put it on the bar
so it would stop it from going all the way up into the braided area.
I think I can loosen up the lower joint and take out the pin on the
upper and slid it down and then move the wheel to the proper position.
The intermediate bar wouldn't slide down due some minor (repeat minor)
surface rust. but if this procedure will work I'll attempt to make it
slide down witha little TLC.
The other question is.....If you remove the center steering wheel pad
there is a large nut holding the wheel onto the column. Can this be
loosened up and reposition the steering wheel this way?? I don't
think, so but it's worth asking.
Thanks Joe for the help!!!!!!
Tom Watkins
#5732
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From: WATBMV@SMTP (Watkins Family) {watbmv@megalink.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Torsion bar appearance
Date: 26-Jul-99 9:04:45 -0400
My torsion bars have some light rust looking odd brown spotting color on
them. It's not that bad but it looks dirty when I open my doors at car
shows. I know not to touch the bars with anything, as any scratched or
nicks can cause that awful BANG!!! sound to possibly happen! My
question is..... Can the bars be painted with anything to cover up this
discoloration? Perhaps a small brush and some silver Krylon sprayed
into a cup and then applied? I know the bars need to twist but I would
like any opinions on what possible options ther might be. The bars work
great and I would rather avoid buying new ones just for some
discoloration.
Thanks
Tom Watkins
#5732
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@eGroups.com}
From: DELOREAN@SMTP {delorean502@excite.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] delorean club?
Date: 26-Jul-99 11:04:47 -0700
does anybody know of a Delorean club in Michigan? i live in west
michigan and want to get together with some other Delorean owners. if
there isnt a club, does somebody want to help me start one up? thanks
erik geerdink
VIN 4512
PLATE EGGS D
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From: SCOMMARA@SMTP (Sam Commarato) {scommara@geocities.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Air conditioning Short...
Date: 26-Jul-99 16:05:14 -0400
Ok, another chapter in the air conditioning saga....When I turn the fan on
with the vent, no problem. When I switch over to A/C, I hear a pop and the
fuse blows right away (#10 - 25amp). I am competely at a loss. Has anyone
had this problem and/or have any solution ideas?
thx,
sam
5616
-----Original Message-----
From: Jus4sho@aol.com <Jus4sho@aol.com>
To: dmcnews@egroups.com <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Date: Sunday, July 25, 1999 11:59 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: A/C Pressures 134a
>I recently exchanged emails with someone from the list who gave me the rest
>and low side operating pressures for an R-12 a/c system. I've misplaced
your
>email address, but would like to know what the same specifications are for
a
>134a system? (I've been told they're higher.) Please respond directly to
>me. Thanks again.
>
>Steve
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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moderator@dmcnews.com
>
>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JAMES@SMTP (James Espey) {james@usadmc.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Seeking original DMC sheepskins
Date: 26-Jul-99 17:22:06 -0500
I am in need of a photogrpah of the original DMC sheepskins covers, the
embossed plastic buckle in particular. If you a set, please contact me
directly at:
james@usadmc.com
Thank you.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.usadmc.com
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From: MCUTTING@SMTP (Mike Cutting) {mcutting@ntl.sympatico.ca}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: dmcnews digest
Date: 26-Jul-99 19:27:08 -0400
greetings..
i remember this being mentioned, so, i appologise for re-posting this
question, but i checked the archives, and couldn't find the answer...
i am picking up my d in 8 days (1982, #11434 - Grey Int, 5 Spd), and i was
wondering.. is there still a car cover available for our cars?? i seem to
remember someone mentioning, a few months ago, that they bought one from
wal-mart (delorean was listed on the side of the box apparently as being one
of the many cars that the cover fit).. i went there, and had no luck.. any
help would be greatly appreciated..
also.. how does one adjust the position of the steering column?
btw, if there are any other d's in northeastern ontario (canada), pls let me
know.. i am aware of only one other, and it's in timmins.
thanks for the help..
:)
mike cutting
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From: NELLYMAC@SMTP {NELLYMAC1@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Stainless Steel Cleaners
Date: 26-Jul-99 19:43:22 -0400
I always use Vanish liqid (with bleach) and really hot water and them a buff
with Mr Sheen
which takes care of fingerprints
but its hard going , I sujest a six pack, a fake sore back and a loving wife
Neil
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From: WATBMV@SMTP (Watkins Family) {watbmv@megalink.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Loud rear-end Clunking/Banging
Date: 26-Jul-99 20:02:16 -0400
I had a front end alignment today. All went well, except that I now have
a loud clucking/whapping sound coming from the Driver rear axle. This
happened last year and it turned out to be some of the rear axle bolts
had come loose.
with this knowledge, I looked underneath and lo and behold several of
the bolts on the tire side near the boot had come loose. I tightened
them up and figured that would be that.......Wrong. I went for a sunset
drive tonight and all of a sudden...wap,wap, wap, upon acceleration. I
nursed it home, and at one point sounded like it has stopped but then
reappeared.
I know the bolts are tight and I know that clunking as you turn is a
common problem but does anyone know what I'm up against? All was fine
until the front alignment....The guy didn't even go near the rear end of
the car so it can't be anything he did. I searched the archives for
this but mostly found the above mentioned clunking issue.
I'm supposed to go to Rob's in August from Maine to New York. I'm
concerned this may be a more serious problem than I may be aware of.
For now, my car is in the barn until I can figure it out. Any help or
advise would be appreciated!
Thanks All
Tom
#5732
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From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering wheel aligment
Date: 26-Jul-99 20:26:01 -0500
Tom Watkins #5732 Wrote:
> With advise from Joe at DMC services I successfully replaced my steering
> column bushing! ...now the steering wheel
> is a tad off center when traveling perfectly straight.
> I think I can loosen up the lower joint and take out the pin on the
> upper and slid it down and then move the wheel to the proper position.
> The intermediate bar wouldn't slide down due some minor (repeat minor)
> surface rust. but if this procedure will work I'll attempt to make it
> slide down with a little TLC.
Refer to the manual H:05:01. You should be able to slide the sections of the
joint far enough up or down to get the intermediate shaft off of the rack
or the steering column without removing either the steering column or the
rack from the car. It may take a lot of penetrating oil on the spline shaft
first. I have done it. Once you get it apart a little anti-sieze compound on
the splines will make this easier for the next guy.
A "sleazier" way to fix your problem is to re-align the tie rod ends, but
you'd be in danger of having the car be able to turn tighter in one
direction than in the other since the straight-ahead postion would no longer
be in the center of the rack. Probably not a good idea.
> The other question is.....If you remove the center steering wheel pad
> there is a large nut holding the wheel onto the column. Can this be
> loosened up and reposition the steering wheel this way?? I don't
> think, so but it's worth asking.
This is a very difficult procedure. There are puller holes in the steering
wheel but they are so small that they are guaranteed to strip out before you
get the wheel off the car. They are also an impossible-to-find metric
size/length. The wheel is loc-tited to the column, so its very hard to
remove without hammering on the column or heating it, which causes other
problems. I'd try to get the lower end apart.
dave
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From: RADDAD@SMTP {raddad@cmn.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] SS Cleaners
Date: 26-Jul-99 20:46:10 -0600
I was going to hold off on this, but since Marc asked about the "new"
cleaner from DMC Houston, I guess I will respond.
First, as a DeLorean owner since 1982 I have tried every single suggested
product and a few "home remedies". I invariably came back to window
cleaner for just about the same reason mentioned here. All others darkened
the appearance,left a film, attracted dust and, in my opinion, also
attracted finger prints.
The one disadvantage of window cleaner is that it does nothing for, and in
fact seems to dull, the black trim. This, in turn, means you've got to use
one of the hundred or so products designed for the trim and it is
impossible to get it on without a few smudges to the stainles steel.
I recently tried some of the "new" cleaner. I was very impressed. Yes, it
does darken the appearance a bit, but much less than the other spray SS
cleaners. Yes, it does leave a hint of a film, but again much less than
the others. It worked very quickly. No problem with streaking. And, it
works well on all the black trim.
I have only tried it once so I am reluctant to give it a 100% thumbs up
since it is rather expensive. However, if future use supports my intial
reaction, I'd say it is a real winner.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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From: MQUINTO@SMTP (Mike) {mquinto@email.msn.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion bar appearance
Date: 26-Jul-99 20:41:57 -0700
>question is..... Can the bars be painted with anything to cover up this
>discoloration?
>Tom Watkins
>#5732
Hey Tom,
I work for a company that builds off road vehicles for the military and we
use torsion bars for are rear suspension.
Before we install the bars we send them out for powder coating (splines
taped).
I've worked with rusting bars many times before. I put them on the lathe and
spin one slow. As it turns, I use a scotch brite pad (blue) on an air sander
and remove as much rust as I can. Then I use a corrosion inhibitor and let
it sit for a day then its re-powder coated.
I know this sounds like a rude process but custom bars can be very expensive
and we've never had an old set of bars snap.
You can also do this by hand with a mild scotch brite pad.
Remove the rust before your bars start to pit, if you let it go or paint
over the rust you'll have a problem.
Mike
Vin#1113
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From: KAYOONG@SMTP {KayoOng@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Snow Driving
Date: 27-Jul-99 0:12:07 -0400
I would like to comment about driving in the snow.
My DeLorean is a daily driven car. I driven my DeLorean in every weather
conditions except hurricanes, tornadoes or a blizzards. I have driven in
many heavy snow falls during my travels. The DeLorean is not a good driving
vehicle in the snow. Any snow under 3" is about the best the DeLorean with
all weather tires can handle.
The DeLorean is difficult to handle in 4" inch of snow, let along 8" inches
of snow.
I am puzzled to the claims, in the drivability and the handling of the
DeLorean in the snow.
In terms of a physical reality, isn't the clearance of DeLorean between
chassis and the ground 6.10" or 155 mm? So, how do one drive in snow that is
8" deep???
I definitely must take lessons from those who claim this ability or have
equip my DeLorean vehicle to be drivable for such conditions, then I too, I
can drive and travel in 8" of snow.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
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From: DCSJ@SMTP {dcsj@excite.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering wheel aligment
Date: 26-Jul-99 21:59:21 -0700
On Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:26:01 -0500, Dave Swingle wrote:
> > The other question is.....If you remove the center steering wheel pad
> > there is a large nut holding the wheel onto the column. Can this be
> > loosened up and reposition the steering wheel this way?? I don't
> > think, so but it's worth asking.
>
> This is a very difficult procedure. There are puller holes in the
steering
> wheel but they are so small that they are guaranteed to strip out before
you
> get the wheel off the car. They are also an impossible-to-find metric
> size/length. The wheel is loc-tited to the column, so its very hard to
> remove without hammering on the column or heating it, which causes other
> problems. I'd try to get the lower end apart.
>
>dave
Just a note: That impossible-to-find metric bolt for the steering wheel
removal isn't metric. Its an SAE 1/4- 28 NF thread.
I had to use 4 inch long bolts when I removed my wheel . But that was when I
replaced it with a better one. Not for recentering it . That is better done
at the lower shaft joints it's probably only off by one spline tooth
anyway.
Dennis
________________________________________________________________
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From: BHENDERL@SMTP (Brian Henderlong) {bhenderlong@mindspring.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Blue DeLorean
Date: 27-Jul-99 2:47:40 -0400
I'm pleased to announce an update to my 'Painted DeLoreans' website:
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
Kirk Brandon has generously given me permission to post two pictures of his
beautiful blue DeLorean (VIN #10246). There are a few more pictures of the
car on the way, and I will let you all know when those are up, as well.
Thanks, and I hope you enjoy the pictures!
Brian Henderlong / Tampa, FL / DOA# 4977 / No VIN yet...
mailto:bhenderlong@mindspring.com
http://home.tampabay.rr.com/deloreans/index.htm
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From: OEHCS@SMTP (Robert Brandys) {oehcs@flash.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: 97 DeLorean on Hot Rod TV
Date: 27-Jul-99 8:26:06 +0000
The 97 DeLorean Time Machine was a big hit on the Hot Rod power tour at
Route 66 Drag Raceway on July 24-25. The car was on the HOT ROD TV show
on Sunday, and will be shown on a later show. Hopefully some one can
tape this and make it available to the list. The Sunday coverage showed
the car being dyno tested.
There is also a very good chance it will be in the upcoming issue of HOT
ROD covering this event.
Dr. Bob
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From: LOVDMC12@SMTP {LovDMC12@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: dmcnews digest
Date: 27-Jul-99 8:47:51 -0400
Mike,
I bought a cover for my D at K-Mart that mentioned DeLoreans on the side of
the box. The cover is made by Budge and the size that fits a D is 2. It
costs less than $50 and is well worth the money.
Brian
VIN 1597
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From: MSUBSTEL@SMTP (Mike Substelny) {msubstel@lorainccc.edu}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Loud rear-end Clunking/Banging
Date: 27-Jul-99 8:52:01 -0400
Tom, by driving with loose lug nuts it is possible that you have damaged
your rear wheel bearings. This happened to me once. I learned the hard
way that you need to be extra careful about the lug nuts and studs on
aluminum wheels.
If this is what happened to you then it has nothing to do with the
alignment job; it is only a coincidence.
- Mike Substelny
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From: MPOULIN@SMTP (Michel Poulin) {mpoulin@poulincomm.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Service Center
Date: 27-Jul-99 11:51:02 -0400
In-reply-to: <00C901BED7CF0320>4080$99ace5cf
#702 is in trouble. We need to find the closest service center to
Indianapolis, Indiana. I thought that there was one in Ohio, but I can't
find a message w/ their name/address.
THanks!
-=mike=-
#702, spitting and sputering and now won't start.
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
| http://www.poulincomm.com |
| http://www.WWJP.com |
*-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-*
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From: DMCIMF@SMTP {DMCIMF@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering wheel aligment
Date: 27-Jul-99 14:28:13 -0400
I had the same problem after the new bushing was installed, and everything
was back in place. All you need to do is get a steering wheel puller to
remove it (it has splines also) so you can line it up.
Bill Glover
DMCIMF @ aol
D # 6905
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From: RAYNET@SMTP {raynet@home.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Steering wheel aligment
Date: 27-Jul-99 13:07:52 -0700
In-reply-to: <379C5B24>.7ACDE7F2
-SNIP-
With advise from Joe at DMC services I successfully replaced my
steering
column bushing! I have only one minor problem. I"m afraid to ask this
BUT.........I didn't quite line up the column spline with the upper
universal joint when reinstalling the column and now the steering wheel
is a tad off center when traveling perfectly straight. Please don't
tell me I have to remove the column again ( taking off trim pads
etc...)
-SNIP-
I just went though the same thing when I had to replace my bushing.
The easiest way to do it IS to take out the steering collumn
unfortunately as there is not alot of room to work with the joint on
the other side. Basically what I had to do was take it out and put it
back in straight, which in itself is a feat because its difficult to
tell where perfectly straight is. If its only off by a notch, you may
be better off having the front end realigned to the wheel, If more than
a notch, then its steering column ahoy time
Raymond McKay
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From: DARRYL@SMTP (darryl@techline.com) {darryl@techline.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Centerforce clutches
Date: 27-Jul-99 20:57:30 +0000
I have to reply to the comment by "Dr. Bob":
"I would not recommended a center force clutch for a D. I bought one years
ago when my stock clutch died. After installing it PROPERLY, the counter
weight would not clear the pressure plate. I eventually had to remove them.
Go with a stock clutch pack."
I've sold and installed lots of Centerforce clutches for DeLoreans over the
years and have a custom-made one in my supercharged car. They work great.
And the counterweights are on the pressure plate, so how could they not
clear it? Somebody installed something incorrectly.
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
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From: RAYNET@SMTP {raynet@home.net}
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Subject: [DML] Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
Date: 27-Jul-99 14:31:16 -0700
Well it finally happened, I got a ticket while driving my D. Ok so its
difficult to drive the car within the contraints of CT speed limits...
Anyway what I found interesting was that the officer clocked me at 66
with his laser. Now my speedo said 55mph a definate far cry from his
reading. Now I just recently had my speedo fixed and calibrated so I
am running on the assumption that it is correct. So this brings me to
the second possibility. I remember a while back, though I can't seem
to find it in the archives a discussion about laser speed detection in
regards to the Delorean. I don't remember there being any final
statement on it, so any solid information would be greatly appreciated
(in other words I really need to get out of this ticket.
Thanks
Raymond McKay
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From: JCOX4001@SMTP {JCox4001@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Car Covers
Date: 27-Jul-99 17:55:32 -0400
Mike, and the List,
Wal-Mart does sell a car cover that is a wonderful low cost fit for the
DeLorean. It is made by "BUDGE", and the size you want is #2. The DeLorean
is listed on the back of the box. It sell for just under $20.00. If anyone
has trouble finding this item, e-mail me directly, and I'll see that you get
one.
Jeff
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From: ACEU@SMTP (Ace Underhill) {aceu@brilliantscreen.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Need Parts Cross Reference
Date: 27-Jul-99 14:59:16 -0700
I will be taking Vin:2860 to Mesa Autoworks this week, to get the brakes
done and look into a cooling problem. Does anyone remember where to get the
Parts Cross Reference list. I had it, but can't remember where I got it
from. I particularly need to know the replacement brake parts.
Thanks!
-Ace Underhill-
Brilliant Screen Entertainment
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From: DSONTOS@SMTP (David Sontos) {dsontos@sybercom.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Loud rear-end Clunking/Banging
Date: 27-Jul-99 19:17:32 -0400
If your car is making that much noise it should be easy to find the problem. I would jack the
rear end up, don't forget the jack stands, and turn the rear wheels by hand. Check the CV
joints, wheel lug nuts, and differential, these are the three main problem areas. You should
find where the clunking is coming from easily.
Watkins Family wrote:
> I went for a sunset drive tonight and all of a sudden...wap,wap, wap, upon acceleration. I
> nursed it home, and at one point sounded like it has stopped but then reappeared.
>
> Tom
> #5732
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From: DMCJOE@SMTP (DMC Joe) {DMCJOE@att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: SOUTHEAST HOUSE CALLS UPDATE
Date: 27-Jul-99 21:00:55 -0400
S Carolina, N Carolina and Tennessee DeLorean owners this is your final
notice to schedule an inspection of you D at your home by yours truly. We
will be in your neighborhood between Friday 7/30 and Tuesday 8/2. For
complete details visit our web-site or e-mail me.
During our House Call trip we would love to meet and chat with owners along
the way. "We accept diner invitations that include cheer, beer and of
course lots of DeLorean talk". Check out the HOUSE CALL page at our
web-site for the latest information on the cities and dates where you might
find us.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
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From: DCSJ@SMTP {dcsj@excite.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Need Parts Cross Reference
Date: 27-Jul-99 20:26:39 -0700
On Tue, 27 Jul 1999 14:59:16 -0700, Ace Underhill wrote:
> I will be taking Vin:2860 to Mesa Autoworks this week, to get the brakes
> done and look into a cooling problem. Does anyone remember where to get
the
> Parts Cross Reference list. I had it, but can't remember where I got it
> from. I particularly need to know the replacement brake parts.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Ace Underhill-
> Brilliant Screen Entertainment
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
moderator@dmcnews.com
>
>
The cross reference list is located at dmc-12.com. However use caution I
have tried using it with very disappointing
results . many of the numbers given are no longer any good or at least
couldn't be found in anyones parts books.
Yes, I thaught it would be great if I could go down to my local parts stores
and actually buy the parts I needed. But I've
found very few items locally. In the end, it usually cost me more in running
around time and gas than it was worth. Besides when you walk up to the
parts counter and give the guy a part # to look up he will almost always ask
you what kind of car is it in . you say Delorean , and the parts guy will
usually laugh an make some kind of joke. I get tired of these comments after
awhile
The engine related parts are readily availiable most others aren't . I
replaced my clutch last fall with a centerforce unit, I
priced out the parts locally and found them too be the same price as if I
had ordered them as a kit from Rob Grady. The difference was that I spent a
couple of days ,after work, running around only to be told that it would
take a week to get . Instead of making that 3 min. phone call and having
all the parts there in a few days guarantied to be correct.
My 2 cents
Dennis
________________________________________________________________
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From: JERRY1@SMTP (Gerald Deutsch) {Jerry1@eclipse.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Snow Driving
Date: 28-Jul-99 0:09:04 -0400
Kayo,
It's simple. If the DeLorean has around 6 inches of gound clearance, then it
can rise up over the snow since it is compacting some of it as it goes
along; at least an inch or two. Remember, the snow might be 8 inches deep,
but the deLoreans tire isn't hitting the pavement either. The compacted snow
under the tire gives it that extra boost up. Understand? ---Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: KayoOng@aol.com <KayoOng@aol.com>
To: dmcnews@egroups.com <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 9:55 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Snow Driving
>I would like to comment about driving in the snow.
>
>My DeLorean is a daily driven car. I driven my DeLorean in every weather
>conditions except hurricanes, tornadoes or a blizzards. I have driven in
>many heavy snow falls during my travels. The DeLorean is not a good
driving
>vehicle in the snow. Any snow under 3" is about the best the DeLorean with
>all weather tires can handle.
>
>The DeLorean is difficult to handle in 4" inch of snow, let along 8" inches
>of snow.
>I am puzzled to the claims, in the drivability and the handling of the
>DeLorean in the snow.
>
>In terms of a physical reality, isn't the clearance of DeLorean between
>chassis and the ground 6.10" or 155 mm? So, how do one drive in snow that
is
>8" deep???
>
>I definitely must take lessons from those who claim this ability or have
>equip my DeLorean vehicle to be drivable for such conditions, then I too, I
>can drive and travel in 8" of snow.
>
>Kayo Ong
>#05508
>Lic 9D NY
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
>
>
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From: OEHCS@SMTP (Robert Brandys) {oehcs@flash.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
Date: 28-Jul-99 8:38:54 +0000
The assumption that there is a relationship between vehicle speed and
total accident deaths is constantly used by police to justify speed
enforcement. Studies of accidents and vehicle death by DOT and the
national safety council clearly show that most injuries and fatalities
happen on local street at interection at speeds less than 40 mph.
If police spent more time analyzing accident causes and getting
dangerous intersections redesigned and fixed, there would be many less
accidents and deaths.
In reality, speed enforcement is just another source of revenue to local
communities. ALMOST 50% of all fatalities are side impacts, speed has
very little to do with this type of accident.
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From: DMCJOE@SMTP (DMC Joe) {DMCJOE@att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Air conditioning Short...
Date: 28-Jul-99 8:25:06 -0400
Go back to the engine compartment and unplug the AC compressor clutch
pull-in wire (red). If the fuse holds the problem is in the compressor. If
the fuse still blows e-mail me directly for further instructions.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Sam Commarato <scommara@geocities.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Air conditioning Short...
> Date: Monday, July 26, 1999 4:05 PM
>
> Ok, another chapter in the air conditioning saga....When I turn the fan
on
> with the vent, no problem. When I switch over to A/C, I hear a pop and
the
> fuse blows right away (#10 - 25amp). I am competely at a loss. Has
anyone
> had this problem and/or have any solution ideas?
>
> thx,
> sam
> 5616
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jus4sho@aol.com <Jus4sho@aol.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com <dmcnews@egroups.com>
> Date: Sunday, July 25, 1999 11:59 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: A/C Pressures 134a
>
>
> >I recently exchanged emails with someone from the list who gave me the
rest
> >and low side operating pressures for an R-12 a/c system. I've misplaced
> your
> >email address, but would like to know what the same specifications are
for
> a
> >134a system? (I've been told they're higher.) Please respond directly
to
> >me. Thanks again.
> >
> >Steve
> >
> >------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
> moderator@dmcnews.com
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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>
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From: DMCJOE@SMTP (DMC Joe) {DMCJOE@att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Need Parts Cross Reference
Date: 28-Jul-99 8:41:19 -0400
We are almost ashamed to admit but it we are the creators of the original
(1987) DeLorean Parts Xover List.
We stopped maintaining the list because the DeLorean parts suppliers, over
all, provide superior parts that are price competitive with most parts
found on the several lists that are now floating through the DeLorean
community.
If you are looking for a particular item e-mail us directly for currebt
Xover
information.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Ace Underhill <aceu@brilliantscreen.com>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Need Parts Cross Reference
> Date: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 5:59 PM
>
> I will be taking Vin:2860 to Mesa Autoworks this week, to get the brakes
> done and look into a cooling problem. Does anyone remember where to get
the
> Parts Cross Reference list. I had it, but can't remember where I got it
> from. I particularly need to know the replacement brake parts.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Ace Underhill-
> Brilliant Screen Entertainment
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
moderator@dmcnews.com
>
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From: MSUBSTEL@SMTP (Mike Substelny) {msubstel@lorainccc.edu}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Service Center
Date: 28-Jul-99 8:51:21 -0400
Michel Poulin wrote:
> #702 is in trouble. We need to find the closest service center to
> Indianapolis, Indiana. I thought that there was one in Ohio, but I can't
> find a message w/ their name/address.
Dave Bauerle is in Radnor, Ohio. That's not too far from Indianapolis. According to the
Advertisers section of the DOA website (www.delorean-owners.org) their number is (740)
595-3348. Beware! Ohio area codes have been changing lately, but I think this is the correct
new number.
- Mike Substelny
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From: IAN@SMTP (Ian Foster) {ian@netvigator.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Old Magazine Article : 'CAR STYLING' 1981
Date: 28-Jul-99 23:53:26 +0800
This may be old news to some ...
On a lead from another DMC enthusiast here in HongKong I searched through a
wee book store in the city centre. I came across "CAR STYLING" Vol#36 of
Autumn, 1981.
If any of you haven't seen this article on the design and manufacture of the
DeLorean then you're missing out! As a Designer/Architect I was in awe, as a
N.Irish man I was fascinated!
Well worth the US$8 it cost me!
Cheers, IAN (vin.#6425)
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From: FLUFFY@SMTP (William T Wilson) {fluffy@snurgle.org}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
Date: 28-Jul-99 13:11:11 -0400
In-reply-to: <7NL8F4SF67>
On Tue, 27 Jul 1999 raynet@home.net wrote:
> Anyway what I found interesting was that the officer clocked me at 66
> with his laser. Now my speedo said 55mph a definate far cry from his
> reading. Now I just recently had my speedo fixed and calibrated so I
Laser is sometimes funky like that. If you elect to fight the ticket, you
should subpoena the laser calibration records. Failing that, try pointing
the laser unit at the wall. It might read 11 mph. :} (seriously.)
It's also possible that the policeman inadvertently clocked some other
car and you got blamed for it because you 'looked' fast.
> the second possibility. I remember a while back, though I can't seem
> to find it in the archives a discussion about laser speed detection in
> regards to the Delorean. I don't remember there being any final
Laser speed detection devices are totally unaffected by the design and/or
construction of the DeLorean. Laser devices work by locking onto the
license plate or headlights, which are pretty much the same on any car.
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From: MARTIN@SMTP (Martin Gutkowski) {martin.is@connect-2.co.uk}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion bar appearance
Date: 28-Jul-99 19:53:46 +0100
But surely you're talking about steel beams here? The torsion bars from a D's door are
stainless and therefore any marks will not be rust (?)
Martin
Mike wrote:
> >question is..... Can the bars be painted with anything to cover up this
> >discoloration?
> >Tom Watkins
> >#5732
>
> Hey Tom,
> I work for a company that builds off road vehicles for the military and we
> use torsion bars for are rear suspension.
<snip>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: SWETYEDY@SMTP (SweatyEddy) {swetyedy@cwnet.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Solvents
Date: 28-Jul-99 18:57:34 +0000
Mike,
I wouldn't recommend Trichloroethane for cleaning anything vinyl. I am a
pharmaceutical chemist and have some experience with organic solvents. If
the Trich' does not deform your vinyl after the first few uses it certainly
will with repeated use. It also "dehydrates" the vinyl which will promote
premature aging and cracking. Trich' is harsher and less healthier than
acetone. I've used acetone on my carpet but I still wouldn't recommend it
for the dash. The only thing I would use Trich' for is removing road tar etc
from an unpainted body.
My 2 cents,
-SweatyEddy
----- Original Message -----
From: <mdeluca@comtechpst.com>
To: <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 23, 1999 1:12 PM
Subject: [DML] Solvents
> I was cleaning the interior vinyl portions of my corvette last night
> and used
> Tricloroethane (also referred to as T 1.1.1. I think , you can buy it
> at Home Depot as a carpet / spot remover and I think it goes by the
> brand name Afta) to remove some spots that soap and water / Fantastic
> etc. wouldn't clean. It worked great, may be even too good ( I think
> it will take the paint right off the vinyly if you're not careful).
> This is a nasty solvent! Probably causes liver damage and cancer and I
> believe it desolves some types of plastics ect. I'm not recommending
> that anyone use this but with all the talk about Acetone and MEK I
> would like to know if this solvent is little better to use on vinyl
> when you need to use a very strong solvent degreaser?
>
> Mike D.
> Vin 3113
> NY Lic DLORIANN
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
moderator@dmcnews.com
>
>
>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: SWETYEDY@SMTP (SweatyEddy) {swetyedy@cwnet.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
Date: 28-Jul-99 19:20:33 +0000
I successfully got out of a ticket by arguing that the ionization ratio in
the zinc component of the stainless steel caused accelerated reflection of
the radar beam relative to that of conventional automobile sheet metal
resulting in an approximate +15% error. Aint a lick of truth, or sense to it
but I think the judge just wanted me to shut up. I brought a few charts to
with some non-sensical chemical equations on them. I didn't have as good of
luck when the CHP airplane nailed me coming home from Lake Tahoe!
-SweatyEddy
----- Original Message -----
From: <raynet@home.net>
To: <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 1999 9:31 PM
Subject: [DML] Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
> Well it finally happened, I got a ticket while driving my D. Ok so its
> difficult to drive the car within the contraints of CT speed limits...
> Anyway what I found interesting was that the officer clocked me at 66
> with his laser. Now my speedo said 55mph a definate far cry from his
> reading. Now I just recently had my speedo fixed and calibrated so I
> am running on the assumption that it is correct. So this brings me to
> the second possibility. I remember a while back, though I can't seem
> to find it in the archives a discussion about laser speed detection in
> regards to the Delorean. I don't remember there being any final
> statement on it, so any solid information would be greatly appreciated
> (in other words I really need to get out of this ticket.
>
> Thanks
>
> Raymond McKay
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
moderator@dmcnews.com
>
>
>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DELOREAN@SMTP {DeLorean31@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Delorean and Laser Speed Detection
Date: 28-Jul-99 17:37:40 -0400
In a message dated 7/28/99 4:53:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, oehcs@flash.net
writes:
<< The assumption that there is a relationship between vehicle speed and
total accident deaths is constantly used by police to justify speed
enforcement. Studies of accidents and vehicle death by DOT and the
national safety council clearly show that most injuries and fatalities
happen on local street at interection at speeds less than 40 mph.
If police spent more time analyzing accident causes and getting
dangerous intersections redesigned and fixed, there would be many less
accidents and deaths.
In reality, speed enforcement is just another source of revenue to local
communities. ALMOST 50% of all fatalities are side impacts, speed has
very little to do with this type of accident. >>
First of all its not the police that are responsible for redisigning
intersections. They spend countless hours analyzing accidents as well.
Thirdly there are many people in some area of law enforcement on this list
such as myself. I would hope the moderator would keep posts bashing certain
occupations off the list as it has nothing related to DeLoreans in its
content. And in this is case it is obviously an opinon and not fact. And
also when DeLorean related topics are more easily terminated.
Gary
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JV$ESPEY@SMTP (James Espey) {jv_espey@yahoo.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Looking For A Few Things
Date: 28-Jul-99 19:16:47 -0700
At the DOA expo in Las vegas in 1995, Don Steger was selling gray ones
as well as the black ones. The factory never made any gray ones, at
least not that made their way in to cars - only black.
James
--- Marc A Levy <malevy@dnrc.bell-labs.com> wrote:
> Does this item exist? I have a gray interior, and
> pretty sure I have a
> black shift boot.
>
>
> Paraversal@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Im just looking for a few minor parts for my DMC.
> If anyone has one of these
> > and is willing to part with it, please contact me
> personally. Parts are as
> > listed below:
> <SNIP>
>
> > ---Gear Shift Leather Boot (Grey)
> ...willing to trade for a new Black
> > leather boot?
> >
> <SNIP>
>
>
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> team, please address moderator@dmcnews.com
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DELORNUT@SMTP (BRUCE BENSON) {delornut@worldnet.att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Solvents
Date: 28-Jul-99 23:24:07 -0500
> I wouldn't recommend Trichloroethane for cleaning anything vinyl. >
Years back we used white gas to clean excess sealer and such from vinyl
upholstery and paint on new Fords rolling out the door. It doesn't hurt
vinyl, paint or plastic and is readily available as Coleman Lantern fuel at
the hardware store,. The only thing to remember is that, like many cleaning
fluids, it is highly flammable. As for Shela Shine, a doctor I'd met in
Omaha saw that used in his hospital and recommended it. A friend sent me a
gallon and it made the stainless look wonderful until the first rain, It
left dark streaks down the sides of the DeLorean that stayed there until I
washed it with a good low phosphate car wash soap.
Bruce Benson
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: WINGD2@SMTP {WINGD2@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Speeding Tickets - Etc...
Date: 29-Jul-99 0:26:17 -0400
If the previous thread on speeding tickets and the replies to the list
were taken as "bashing" in reference to law enforcement, then I apologize for
allowing them on the list.
As of now this thread is finished, Marty Maier, moderator
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From: GUSSOB@SMTP {Gussob@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Possible D cleaner
Date: 29-Jul-99 0:57:54 -0400
Hello all.
While working my horrible night job @ McDonald's, it occurred to me that when
they close the store, they use a special cleaner for stainless steel counter
tops. I'm going to investigate further as to how it reacts to water, but it
shines it up pretty well. Plus, if there are any fingerprints, you can just
wipe the print off w/ a rag. So far the only problem I see is that the bottle
says it's a silicone based product. I got the manufacturer's # and address,
so I'm going to contact them to see if they would sell me some.
I don't have a D yet, but I'm just trying to help. Any questions, email me.
Thanks....
Dave L.
Providence, RI
VIN- I WANT A D!!!
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From: OEHCS@SMTP (Robert Brandys) {oehcs@flash.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: A/C Recharge Cost?
Date: 29-Jul-99 7:58:58 +0000
You got a bargin. One pound of R-12 is $60 here.
Bob
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("'DMCNEWS'") {DMCNEWS@egroups.com}
From: PAA5072@SMTP (Fedeli, Joe) {paa5072@exmail.dscp.dla.mil}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] DeLorean snow driving
Date: 29-Jul-99 7:16:09 -0400
Dear Kayo Ong,
Coming from New York, you should get LOTS of experience in regards
to the opportunity of driving in snow conditions! Each individual (driver)
has unique abilities in driving, and snow driving can be difficult depending
on an individual's personal driving ability and experience. I've driven
mine MANY times in various snow conditions and have found it very stable in
most snow conditions when comparing other rear drive vehicles with the same
'type' of non-snow tire being used for traction. Again, my 'performance' is
compare to other rear wheel drive cars I have driven and their individual
capabilities in the snow without specific snow dedicated tires on the car.
The DeLorean has a lot of rear weight and good 'traction' compare to many
other similarity comparable non-snow tired rear wheel drive autos. The
compression of snow allowing for rear wheel traction is good compared to
other cars.
If your concerns are to improve the capabilities of traction of your
DeLorean in the snow, I would highly recommend purchasing four snow tires
and installing studs on all four wheels for increased traction. You might
want to also increase the tire surface area by going to a physically larger
tire size if you do not want to purchase snow tires from original installed
DeLorean equipment. I went to a different tire size and found the overall
performance increased dramatically! Again, remember, each car made and
axle drive layout has different handling characteristics. By installing
four snow tires with studs, this will increases traction performance in some
areas, especially icing conditions, but will dramatically decrease
performance in other areas. Some of that performance profile depends on
overall car weight, wheel base, width, and height along with wheel drive
configuration (independent vs. posi-traction vs. four wheel full time vs.
RWD/FWD, etc.). The point is usually finding the 'balance' for general
overall use or to dedicate your tire configuration to the unique application
you want performance in at that specific time (e.g. rain traction or street
performance).
One disadvantage I personally noted and would forewarn other
potential DeLorean drivers about driving in the snow is the following: do
NOT try to do it!
Point #1: Many states use rock salt and the 'spray' gets
all over the car into all sorts of areas and can rot out the various steel
un-coated metal surfaces. (My car needed 'repair' by sanding/pealing the
various coatings off of the undercarriage that the salt damage caused and
worked it's way under many small openings in the coated surfaces. It
started to cause a 'cancer like' metal deterioration.). If you do drive in
the snow, hose the entire car off especially the undercarriage VERY
WELL!!!!! This can NOT be emphasized enough!!!!
Point #2: You could purchase those generic chains for the
tires, but they always seem to break and hit the wheel well and fender
areas.
Point #3: The other guy driving in the snow will miss all
the other cars on the road and hit you in the DeLorean only! Do you really
need the repair/insurance hassles?
Just my experience and not intended as a criticism. The best answer
is to drive the 'beater' car in the snow. Good luck on your snow driving
and let me know of your opinion!
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DMCJOE@SMTP (DMC Joe) {DMCJOE@att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Possible D cleaner
Date: 29-Jul-99 10:33:21 -0400
Dave,
Several years back we serviced a D that was owned by an executive from the
McDonalds cooperate office, he said he used the stainless cleaner that was
distributed to all the McDonalds restaurants on his D. He gave us a can and
we experimented with the product and found it to be an excellent,
similar to 3M, but discovered that it had the same negative characteristics
as other stainless cleaners i.e. streaking after wet, discoloring, etc.
For details on maintaining your stainless panels see our web-site page
http://www.geocities.com/~dmcjoe/stainless.html
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Gussob@aol.com
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] Possible D cleaner
> Date: Thursday, July 29, 1999 12:57 AM
>
> Hello all.
> While working my horrible night job @ McDonald's, it occurred to me that
when
> they close the store, they use a special cleaner for stainless steel
counter
> tops. I'm going to investigate further as to how it reacts to water, but
it
> shines it up pretty well. Plus, if there are any fingerprints, you can
just
> wipe the print off w/ a rag. So far the only problem I see is that the
bottle
> says it's a silicone based product. I got the manufacturer's # and
address,
> so I'm going to contact them to see if they would sell me some.
> I don't have a D yet, but I'm just trying to help. Any questions, email
me.
> Thanks....
> Dave L.
> Providence, RI
> VIN- I WANT A D!!!
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address
moderator@dmcnews.com
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: WILTZIUS@SMTP (Jeff Wiltzius) {wiltzius@students.wisc.edu}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] It was the best of times...(long!)
Date: 29-Jul-99 10:07:53 -0500
and the worst of times!
Hello fellow list readers- thought I'd trouble you again for some
suggestions and relate my story from last night.
I unfortunately discovered 3 new problems yesterday- after getting 1
fixed! Oh boy- this car is a lot of work isn't it, but it is worth
it. Anyway- after getting my brake squeel tamed (at least for now) I
picked up my car from the mechanic's where it had been sitting out in
the sun all day. Jumped in and started it up but could NOT move the
stick into 1st or 2nd gear! Puzzled, I wiggled the stick through 3rd,
4th, and 5th and even R just fine but could not get the stick over
to 1st and 2nd. Still more puzzled and a little frantic, I continued
to try to massage the stick into gear and FINALLY, after a few
minutes it slipped into 1st. Relieved, I pulled out and drove the car
home with NO further problems. After letting the car cool down (I
figured the heat had gotten to my plastic clutch cable) I thought I'd
see if it behaved fine. No big deal- I was planning on getting a
steel clutch cable soon anyway.
So I took the car out at night and it behaved the same way- except
even worse! Can always get it easily into anything except 1st and 2nd
gear. Once you get the car into 1st- it will easily slide into 2nd.
And if you drive the car only in 1st and 2nd I don't think I'd run
into the problem. When you move over to 3rd and up and then try to
get back over to the left on the stick- it's like running into a
wall! The stick just will NOT move. This is very frustrating.
One other tidbit that may help someone in offering me suggestions I
can pass on to my mechanic: at one point I was frantic (approaching a
red light) and used a little extra force to move the stick to the
left- and it MOVED! However, although I could now move the stick to
where 1st and 2nd gear should be- all I received in return was a
HORRIBLE grinding noise from the transmission. So I could move the
stick to 1st and 2nd, but even with the clutch fully depressed-
grinding was all I got. What a horrible noise coming from such a
beautiful car!
To make the night even worse- I noticed my fuel guage is now acting
strange (time for a tankzilla upgrade) AND my key doesn't turn in the
ignition very easily (insert key fine but it won't turn without a
lot of wiggling). The ignition has always been touchy though...
So what helped balance all of this out a little?- well when I was
limping around with my car that wouldn't shift into 1st and 2nd
gears, with a gas guage that read empty even though I had around a
quarter of a tank, I pulled into a gas station (thought I might as
well fill it up anyway). I was approached by one person who asked
about the car and offered me a job with an internet company (must
have thought only hard-working, computer savvy people drive
DeLoreans) and another gentleman pulled into the gas station while I
was filling up, parked his car in the middle of the parking lot,
jumped out and came running towards my car. After asking the
obligatory 'what kind of car is that?!?!?' He realized what he was
looking at and jumped up and down and said 'Back the Future car!!! Do
the doors open like in the movie?!?' I just nodded my head....then
he said he thought it looked like a Lamborghini or something and that
it was a beautiful car. Sigh...if only it ran as good as it
looked.... (smile)
My questions are:
1. Would replacing my plastic clutch line with the steel one fix my
problems and is it the logical place to start?
2. I recall someone else having a problem like this on the list and
mentioning something about a 'synchromesh'. I looked up that term and
sort of understand what it is (supposed to keep the gears from
clashing as you shift from one to another)- could this be the problem
also?
3. Previous owner just had complete clutch rebuild a few years ago-
so I'm assuming the clutch is OK? Or could this be some other problem
with the clutch? (besides just plastic cable?)
Suggestions welcomed and any other stories- send them my way! I love
to hear a good story about people admiring DeLoreans (always seems
to happen at gas stations...)
Sincerely,
Jeff Wiltzius
Wisconsin DeLorean Owner
#6145 (in need of some major assistance right now!)
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("'dmcnews@egroups.com'") {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: NICK@SMTP (Kemp, Nick (MN10)) {nick.kemp@HBC.honeywell.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: DeLorean snow driving
Date: 29-Jul-99 11:07:51 -0500
There are a lot of comments on "snow driving" and here are mine:
- It doesn't make any difference how good the D is in snow if another driver
hits you.
- Snow and Ice are two substantially different driving conditions
- As any 4x4 driver can tell you, there is a world of difference between
acceleration and deceleration in snow and especially ice. Stopping is a lot
harder.
- If the tires aren't rotating you aren't getting the full capacity to stop.
- If the front tires aren't rotating you can't steer.
- The D is lighter up front than the rear making it easier for the front to
lock before the rear
My experience many years ago in my first D on snow left me with a very
uncomfortable feeling when trying decelerate in turns on snow or ice. But
acceleration was good! I only drove it once in the snow and ice.
- The frame is very susceptible to rusting if the epoxy is chipped, cracked
or the like.
- Salt + bare steel + water = rust
- The frame will rust from underneath the epoxy. The rust feeds on the
metal and it can go down the "middle" of epoxy-steel-epoxy sandwich.
All said and done, spend a couple $K (minimum) and find an alternative
vehicle. If not, put that money away to spend on the D when it needs to be
repaired from an accident or frame problems. Think of the D like many other
resources, that being something we use while we're here and pass on to the
next person.
Nick Kemp
Credentials: Minnesota snow and ice experienced. Rusty frame experienced
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: FLUFFY@SMTP (William T Wilson) {fluffy@snurgle.org}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: It was the best of times...(long!)
Date: 29-Jul-99 12:26:43 -0400
In-reply-to: <199907291507>.KAA42720
On Thu, 29 Jul 1999, Jeff Wiltzius wrote:
> even worse! Can always get it easily into anything except 1st and 2nd
> gear. Once you get the car into 1st- it will easily slide into 2nd.
Is the problem that you cannot move the stick to the left (so that it
aligns in the left/right direction with 1st and 2nd) or is the problem
that you cannot move the stick forward/back into 1st or 2nd?
If it is that you cannot move the stick to the left, you might have a bent
roll-pin or shifter fork inside the transmission. It is a reasonably
simple thing to fix - as far as transmission internals go, anyway.
If it is that you cannot move the stick forward or back into 1st or 2nd,
you should check to see if everything is aligned properly. It may be a
linkage problem.
> 1. Would replacing my plastic clutch line with the steel one fix my
> problems and is it the logical place to start?
Possibly. But if you have to take the transmission out anyway you may
as well perform any planned clutch maintenance at the same time.
> 2. I recall someone else having a problem like this on the list and
> mentioning something about a 'synchromesh'. I looked up that term and
> sort of understand what it is (supposed to keep the gears from
> clashing as you shift from one to another)- could this be the problem
> also?
No. The synchromesh has no effect when the car is stopped. The purpose
of the synchromesh is to keep the gears on the input shaft turning at the
same speed as the drive gears, so that they do not clash when you shift.
When you move the shifter, the synchro accelerates the input shaft to the
right speed.
However, it is possible to damage the synchros by shifting the car with
the clutch not fully engaged.
You can always test the synchromesh by double clutching. Drive to some
speed where you want to shift. Then, shift into neutral, release the
clutch, accelerate the engine to the RPM that it would be at in the new
gear, then depress the clutch and shift into the new gear. If it works,
you may have a synchro problem. If it doesn't, then it's not the synchro.
> 3. Previous owner just had complete clutch rebuild a few years ago-
> so I'm assuming the clutch is OK? Or could this be some other problem
> with the clutch? (besides just plastic cable?)
All kinds of things can go wrong with the clutch. It could be a fluid
leak, or an improper adjustment, or almost anything, really.
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DMCJOE@SMTP (DMC Joe) {DMCJOE@att.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: It was the best of times...(long!)
Date: 29-Jul-99 12:35:03 -0400
Jeff,
HERE IS A VERY SHORT ANSWER FOR A VERY LONG POST!
Replace your plastic clutch with the stainless unit and you car will easily
shift through all the gears.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / <dmcjoe@att.net>
Web Site: <http://www.deloreanservices.com>
----------
> From: Jeff Wiltzius <wiltzius@students.wisc.edu>
> To: dmcnews@egroups.com
> Subject: [DML] It was the best of times...(long!)
> Date: Thursday, July 29, 1999 11:07 AM
>
> My questions are:
> 1. Would replacing my plastic clutch line with the steel one fix my
> problems and is it the logical place to start?
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: RYBETH@SMTP (ryan arsenault) {rybeth@flash.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Lee Partyka Chevyland
Date: 29-Jul-99 16:18:07 -0400
Hi list. I researched that Lee Partyka Chevyland in Connecticut has some
experience with DeLoreans. Does anyone have any experience or info about
this particular place and can they recommend him to me? Thanks
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: AT88MPH@SMTP (Duke) {at88mph@mobis.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Smoke coming out of engine compartment
Date: 29-Jul-99 15:32:52 -0500
I was wondering if anyone had ever had this problem before. I'm driving
along and all the sudden, black smoke (oil) comes pouring out of the back of
my car. (I could loose cops in it!) It only does it at certain times
randomly. It doesn't matter if I speed up, turn to a certain direction ect.
It just does it when it feels like it. I replaced my valve cover gaskets
thinking this would get rid of the problem but its still there. It comes
from the back of the engine compartment towards the driver's side. The only
thing I can figure is I have a bad rear seal but before I try and replace
it, I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and knows for sure
what the cause is.
Thanks in advance,
Duke
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JAMES@SMTP (James Espey) {james@usadmc.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Factory Care Kit (was: Cleaning/Stainless Steel Body)
Date: 29-Jul-99 15:51:22 -0500
In-reply-to: <37951EC8>.46C487B4
The original factory care/cleaning kits contained:
1. Stainless Steel Cleaner/Sealer, a gritty, thick liquid
2. Stainless Steel Shampoo, a neutral pH soap that doesn't make a lot of
suds, which are what can leave "spots" in the stainless (which is why you
then need the item above)
3. Leather/Vinyl Cleaner - a liquid formulated for the - you guessed it -
leather, vinyl and fiberglass areas of your car.
and finally,
4. A blending pad, for removing minor scraches and blemishes exactly the
same as used by the factory for the final hand work on each panel.
Dick Ryan briefly mentioned the new spray polish (SS-Glow) we carry, in
addition to the Super Hi-Lite. These polishes were not factory items, but
they are essential to the cleaning process. They sprays and the above items
are available separately also.
I've heard too many horror stories about lemon juice and yes, steel wool,
when it's so easy to do the job right with the right stuff.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.usadmc.com
At 8:13 PM -0500 7/20/99, Ann & Ed Thompson wrote:
>> Gussob@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Don't wanna sound stupid, but will SOS pads work?
>>
>
>Work for what? They work great for pots and pans and
>white sidewalls.
>
>Sure they will! BUT, do NOT attempt to use them for
>removing minor blemishes and/or scratches on your
>DeLorean's finish! These pads are NOT stainless steel
>wool. They WILL leave tiny rust spots on your DeLorean's
>finish. If you use ANY type of metal scrubbing pads make
>sure they are of stainless steel construction.
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From: SWETYEDY@SMTP (SweatyEddy) {swetyedy@cwnet.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Other Shifter Quirks
Date: 29-Jul-99 21:45:21 +0000
I think my problem is in the shifter and not the clutch or tranny, maybe someone out there can steer me in the right direction. My car goes easily into 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th. To get it into second takes a little work and I have to be carefu
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<DIV><FONT size=2>I think my problem is in the shifter and not the clutch or
tranny, maybe someone out there can steer me in the right direction. My car goes
easily into 1st, 3rd, 4th and 5th. To get it into second takes a little work and
I have to be careful not to hit reverse. I know what you're thinking, why would
I have a problem hitting reverse if I'm not lifting on the shifter....there's my
problem, I don't have to lift up to shift into reverse. Any
suggestions? -SweatyEddy</FONT></DIV>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: STEVEDMC@SMTP (SteveDMC) {steveDMC@i-55.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Possible D cleaner
Date: 29-Jul-99 19:38:17 -0500
I know what polish you are talking about. I worked at wendy's for a year
and on rare occasions we used the same comercial polish.
There are many ways we clean stainless in a resturant without the expensive
polish. The best way to give it that shine is by using a green Scotch Brite
and plenty of hot water.
So if you really want to get your D looking new, I guess you could do the
same, just use some very hot water and a pad with a handle so you don't burn
your hands.
Just my 2 cents, I thought i would contribute to this fast food info that i
already know so much about.
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From: MAGRIESE@SMTP {magriese@us.ibm.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] No Subject
Date: 30-Jul-99 7:56:13 -0500
>I've worked with rusting bars many times before. I put them on the lathe and
spin one slow. As it turns, I use a scotch brite pad (blue) on an air sander
and remove as much rust as I can. Then I use a corrosion inhibitor and let
it sit for a day then its re-powder coated.<
DO NOT DO THIS WITH DELOREAN TORSION BARS!!
DeLorean torsion bars are cryogenically set - they receive 9 turns at
a very cold temperature to give them their torsional strength. As a
result, there are enormous surface tensions in the bars. Even
a small scratch can weaken the bars enough that they can
shatter.
Michael A. Griese
Storage Software Development Manager
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@us.ibm.com
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
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From: HALDEMAN@SMTP (Josh Haldeman) {haldeman.4@osu.edu}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Torsion bars?
Date: 30-Jul-99 13:47:12 -0400
Dear List,
Were we talking about the doors' torsion bars, or the torsion bars on the front end of the
car? Actually, I've never really noticed...does the DeLorean have torsion bars on it's front
end? I seem to recall them being down there, but now I'm not sure and can't check because my
car is at Bauerle's for the time being. I was under the impression we were talking about
those though, and not the doors'.
Josh
VIN 5102
>
> DeLorean torsion bars are cryogenically set - they receive 9 turns at
> a very cold temperature to give them their torsional strength. As a
> result, there are enormous surface tensions in the bars. Even
> a small scratch can weaken the bars enough that they can
> shatter.
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From: DELOREAN@SMTP {delorean502@excite.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] weird acceloration
Date: 30-Jul-99 11:14:32 -0700
this isnt a major problem by far, but just something i was wondering
about. it only happens when i'm just starting my journies in the
Delorean, in other words, from a cold start. accelorating in 2nd gears
sometimes looses power but gains it back in miliseconds and then does
it again a second later. this only happens at first. like i said,
nothing major, just something i want to know about. thanks
Erik "egg" Geerdink
vin 4512
lic Plate: EGGS D
P.S: I'm still looking for people in Michigan that want to start a
Delorean club, or a Delorean get together. lets see howmany Deloreans
we can pool together. Inmy town, Holland, there is suprizingly around
10 known Deloreans!! not bad for a place with 40,000 people.
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From: MARTY$MC@SMTP (efren hicks) {marty_mcflyjr@yahoo.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] delorean r.c.
Date: 30-Jul-99 11:38:09 -0700
hello
Does any one in the group have or knows where i can get a remote
control delorean i got one but its completely busted please email me
back @ marty_mcflyjr@yahoo.com
efren
#16072
_____________________________________________________________
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From: D$OZZBOU@SMTP (derek osborn) {d_ozzbourne@yahoo.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] wanting to trade GTO for a D in a local museum-need help
Date: 30-Jul-99 13:31:27 -0700
well, this is my first post. i've loved the delorean automobile ever
since i was 10. (the first time i saw back to the future) i'm now a
little bit older and a little bit wiser........17!!!!! I've seen 6 Ds
in my life. right now, i'm driving around in a 1971 Pontiac GTO. (hey
now, it's KINDA related to the D!) I promised myself i would own a D
SOMETIME in my life. there is a 1981 model in a local museum for sale.
the owner is asking $20,000, which i feel is a little bit pricey. the
ss looks a little discolored in some spots (kinda yellowish). The
fascias need painted. the seats are missing their backs and are kinda
cracked up. oh yeah, the doors also droop, but i know how to fix that.
: ) I don't have a clue how many miles the car has on it. I've never
heard it run. the engine looks fairly clean. I don't know anything
about the epoxy undercoating. does this sound like a fair price for
the car?? if i did purchase it, i would have to part ways with my
beloved GTO. i would appreciate any help. Thanks.
Derek Osborn
1971 Pontiac GTO T-37
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (in my dreams)
_____________________________________________________________
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From: MIKE0306@SMTP {Mike03062@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] DMC Prices
Date: 30-Jul-99 18:00:38 -0400
derek I have been looking for just the right "D" for about a year. My
advice is to download the check sheet from DMC Houston's web site. A nice
DeLorean in the mid teens with a decent frame and most updates is probably a
good buy. By the way did you know John Kennedy jr's Martha's Vineyard
kick-around car was a black GTO convertible!
Mike Drake
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From: PRESIDEN@SMTP (Linda Porter) {president@delorean-owners.org}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] DeLorean Expo '99 - Oktoberfest
Date: 30-Jul-99 18:34:08 -0500
I would like to invite all readers of the DeLorean Mailing List to attend
the DeLorean Owners Association Expo '99 in St. Louis, Missouri. Dates are
October 7-10, 1999.
Many exciting events are planned; Technical Seminar sponsored by Bauerle
Automotive, Concours/Car Show and Product Fair sponsored by DeLorean Motor
Company, and a drive through the beautiful wine country just west of St.
Louis.
In addition there will be several dinners and banquets in exciting places.
P. J. Grady, Inc. will sponsor our Thursday evening aboard the paddle wheel
boat, Tom Sawyer. On Friday, we will have the Gateway Arch all to ourselves
after-hours, for a chance to ride the trams, view the exhibits and enjoy a
catered buffet. Sponsor for this event will be DeLorean Motor Center.
Saturday will be our gala Oktoberfest Ball, sponsored by DeLorean One.
Sunday morning we'll enjoy the fabulous brunch in the Top of the Riverfront
Restaurant, the only revolving restaurant in St. Louis.
Headquarters for Expo '99 is the Regal Riverfront Hotel in downtown St.
Louis. Just across the street from the Gateway Arch, it is any easy walk to
the Arch as well as the Mississippi River and other area attractions.
Group rate for a Standard room is $99.00 per night. Reservation deadline
for the hotel is September 15, 1999. You must refer to the DeLorean Owners
Association to get this rate. Reservations after that date will be accepted
based on availability at the prevailing rack rates, so don't wait to
reserve your room if you plan to
attend.
You can read more about Expo at our web site:
<http://www.delorean-owners.org>
Click on the Events button at:
<http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/index.html>
and then Click the Expo button in the left frame, or go directly to:
<http://www.delorean-owners.org/events/99expo.html>
There you will find a registration form that can be mailed or e-mailed to
the Association. Final deadline to sign up for events is September 20, 1999.
So, meet me in St. Louie!
Linda Porter
President-Activities Director
DeLorean Owners Association
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From: JAMES@SMTP (James Espey) {james@usadmc.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Lower Control Arms, "unavailable" parts, etc.
Date: 30-Jul-99 18:56:28 -0500
We (DMC) have investigated having new control arms made, and we have the
original drawings for the part. They can be made for far less than $500
each, but the tooling, and minimum quantities required make it an easy five
figure investment. And we'd end up with more of them than we could sell in
another 20 years. What's more, it's an inherently poor design, so we are
investigating other options. For the present, we have yet to see a broken
one that we couldn't repair - EVER! It's easier, faster (than hunting down
a new one) as well as less expensive and safe (all big factors,
particularly when insurance companies are involved - and they are picky
about future safety on a repair job).
As far as your questions about "parting out" a DeLorean, ANY car is worth
more for parts than it is whole (that's whay junkyards, er, automotive
recyclers stay in business - the problem, particularly with a low volume
"niche" car is that the demand is so low. Sure, you might get $10K for the
panels and glass (though a more realistic estimate is $6K) do you want to
wait months, probably years to get that out of it, and in the meantime have
a "half-DeLorean" in your backyard? Bryan Pearce (stainless steel frame guy
and DML'er) has been parting out a car for awhile, he can shed more light
on the realities of doing that.
That said, there are so few parts that there are no more NEW parts
available, I can't think of them. Original window switches come to mind. We
have no more ORIGINAL window switches - though we do have an excellent
replacement that is the same style, shape and design (thogh 3mm narrower) -
it even lights up, so that the arrows can be illuminated (nomore rubbed off
arrows!). Through our efforts at re-sourcing these and other "hard to get"
parts, the DeLorean has better overall immediate parts availability than
Ferrari, Porsche or BMW and we very much doubt that, percentage-wise, that
Ford, GM or DaimlerChrysler do either.
As for the future supply - ask anyone on the list (or elsewhere) who has
been to our parts warehouse in Ohio - 40,000 square feet, floor to ceiling
of DeLorean parts. Darn near everything!
Read the posting I wrote back in October of 1996 (before I was a DMC
employee, and before we bought the parts from KAPAC) for a idea of what I
mean. Bear in mind that all this is STILL left after being the main source
for nearly 20 years.
http://www.dmcnews.com/backissues/dml184.html
Additionally, I was just there on Tuesday and Wednesday of this week, and
it still boggles my mind that there is just so much left. I took some new
photos, and I will try to get them posted on the website this weekend. Out
of the 2800 different DeLoreanpart numbers, there are still some 1600-1700
that have NEVER been ordered. Future parts supplies are the least of a
DeLorean owners worries.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.usadmc.com
At 3:47 PM -0500 7/22/99, Ann & Ed Thompson wrote:
>Just how many of these expensive, rare, and "no longer available" parts
>are there on the DeLorean. The more I hear and read about this the more
>I'm beginning to think that a "good driver DeLorean", say between $10K
>and $15K, is worth far more being parted out. Body panels, doors, glass,
>and lower control arms alone would probably bring $10K selling them one
>at a time. James, do you have any idea how many parts listed in the
>DeLorean factory parts manual are "no longer available"? Being in the
>DeLorean parts business I thought you might have an estimate. I know
>that for much older and long obsolete antique cars in concours condition
>most parts are nearly non-existent. If needed, replacements parts of all
>kinds have to be made. That's why some of these cars are worth hundreds
>of thousands of dollars and even millions. Do you have any idea what it
>would cost to have a lower control arm made for a DeLorean? $500 might
>pay for a construction drawing. For a one-off I would guess at least
>several thousand dollars.
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From: DMC5524@SMTP {DMC5524@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Smoke coming out of engine compartment
Date: 30-Jul-99 19:57:57 -0400
In a message dated 7/30/99 1:16:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
at88mph@mobis.com writes:
<< black smoke (oil) comes pouring out of the back of
my car. >>
So which one is it? Black smoke or oil? :-) Seriously, burning oil produces
white smoke that has a blue tint to it. Unless you are burning a LOT of oil,
which I doubt. Other materials like rubber can produce a thick black smoke.
Maybe your problem is with another system on the car?
Keep us updated,
Dave
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From: HI$JINKS@SMTP {hi_jinks@webtv.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] delorean-chevy engine
Date: 30-Jul-99 17:01:46 -0700
Is it possible to put a Chevy small block and transmission in a
Delorean. Just wondering, I have seen ads for Deloreans for sale and
they had Chevy engines. Just wondering if it is worth doing. I saw one
for sale not running is the reason why.
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From: TOCCATA@SMTP (Rick Barranco) {toccata@magicnet.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Delorean experience in Florida
Date: 30-Jul-99 20:33:09 -0400
Hi everyone,
Does anyone know of a good mechanic with Delorean experience in or near
Orlando Florida? I have had no major problems with my "D" but I do have a small exhast leak I
would like to have someone fix as well as getting it tuned and adjusted. I just can't bring myself
to let just any mechanic look at it.....
Thanks,
Rick
Barranco
"TOCCATA"
Vin
# 3268
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From: MIKEHIRK@SMTP (Mike Hirko) {mikehirko@tdn.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: wanting to trade GTO for a D in a local museum-need help
Date: 30-Jul-99 18:04:27 -0700
derek osborn wrote:
>snip
> the owner is asking $20,000, which i feel is a little bit pricey. the
> ss looks a little discolored in some spots (kinda yellowish). The
> fascias need painted. the seats are missing their backs and are kinda
> cracked up. oh yeah, the doors also droop, but i know how to fix that.
> : ) I don't have a clue how many miles the car has on it. I've never
> heard it run.
> does this sound like a fair price for
> the car?? if i did purchase it, i would have to part ways with my
> beloved GTO. i would appreciate any help. Thanks.
>
> Derek Osborn
> 1971 Pontiac GTO T-37
> 1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (in my dreams)
Derek,
Run, don't walk, from the doors of this museum. $20K for a car in
the condition you describe is assinine. Start putting a few bucks away
each month until you've saved a couple of thousand and at that time ask
this list for hints as to where to find the "D of your dreams".
If you spend $20K for the car you describe, you'll spend at least
that much more getting it into the condition it needs to be. Trust me.
Mike Hirko
Kelso WA
Vin 1387 License WAWAZAT
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From: COMET424@SMTP {Comet42483@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Strange noise & idles Rough
Date: 30-Jul-99 23:02:36 -0400
I recently bought an 81, and when I go around a corner, sometimes there is a
Clunk in the engine compartment. Any ideas as to what it is?
Also when I first start the car it idles roughly down at around 500 Rpm's
but after its warm it runs great. Is there a way to adjust it?
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From: MQUINTO@SMTP (Mike) {mquinto@email.msn.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: No Subject
Date: 30-Jul-99 21:07:32 -0700
Mike,
what you are saying is correct I agree with you one hundred percent. You
are saying that the bars are only cold treated on the surface and not to the
core, so when you take away that treated surface the bar becomes weak,
correct?
The bars I work with are not cold treated and sitting in an oven doesn't
change the molecular structure. The bars we run are treated to the the core,
so we can get away with scotching old bars without worring about losing that
surface treat.
It was a bad example I admit I assumed that DeLorean used the same material.
And I apologize for any confusion.
But there is one thing that I don't understand is that the process you
described is expensive even though Boing made the bars I don't see DeLorean
spending all that time and money on torsion bars especially 20 years ago on
a $25,000 car. Torsion bars were nothing new at that time for that type of
cold treating. Without the 269.8 lbs of force assisting from the gas springs
the doors won't even open on there own anyway.
The one gentlemen had said that his bars were discoloring and showing a
little rust. And another gentlemen had said that the bars were made from
stainless steel. If there were stainless they would have to be hardened to
get that tensil strengh, and if they are stainless there might be a thin
layer of ferrite iron on the surface of the bars
that would be the cause of the discoloration and rust.
Until we know what material and process Boing used to make the bars were all
blowing smoke. I don't know but I'm having fun. If there is any further
thread on this subject keep in mind that there is no bashing nessesary this
is a learning experience for all.
Keep the peace and drive stainless
Mike
vin#1113
>DeLorean torsion bars are cryogenically set - they receive 9 turns at
>a very cold temperature to give them their torsional strength. As a
>result, there are enormous surface tensions in the bars. Even
>a small scratch can weaken the bars enough that they can
>shatter.
>
>Michael A. Griese
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From: CBL302@SMTP {CBL302@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Possible D cleaner
Date: 31-Jul-99 0:39:36 -0400
In a message dated 7/30/99 2:15:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, DMCJOE@att.net
writes:
<< or details on maintaining your stainless panels see our web-site page
http://www.geocities.com/~dmcjoe/stainless.html
>>
I have restored Deloreans since 1982,and all I ever use is a NEW sos pad,and
I have never had any problems,after all that's what I also use on my SS
kitchen sink,if you do it right it works just fine,just hose the stuff off
while it is still sudsy,and do it in a shady area,and Never use a used SOS
pad or if it falls on dirt,my Deloreans looked
so good that one person took a look at it and bought it then and there.
Claude
vin#000570
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From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] re: Smoke coming out of engine compartment
Date: 30-Jul-99 23:51:40 -0500
Duke wrote:
>black smoke (oil) comes pouring out of the back of my car. ... I replaced
my valve cover gaskets
>thinking this would get rid of the problem but its still there. It comes
from the back of the engine
>compartment towards the driver's side.
Did you recently service the airconditioner pulley bearings? Underneat the
mess of brackets holding them in place is a cam end cover plate with an
o-ring under it. It is held in place by the same screws that hold those a/c
pulleys in place. If you have the parts manual look at item 3 and 4 on page
1/1/4., then look at page 7/2/1 and you'll see the same cover plate in
"ghosted" form. You probably dropped out the o-ring or it has come apart
over time.
dave
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Subject: [DML] Re: Lower Control Arms, "unavailable" parts, etc.
Date: 31-Jul-99 0:56:25 -0400
In a message dated 7/30/99 10:22:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
james@usadmc.com writes:
<< As for the future supply - ask anyone on the list (or elsewhere) who has
been to our parts warehouse in Ohio - 40,000 square feet, floor to ceiling
of DeLorean parts. Darn near everything! >>
Just wanted to say,if anybody doubts what James is saying,just look at the
Expo98
video on the trip to the warehouse,I watched it for the first time last
night,and it blew me away at the MOUNTAINS of NEW Delorean parts still
available.
Claude
Vin#000570
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From: CBL302@SMTP {CBL302@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Lower Control Arms, "unavailable" parts, etc.
Date: 31-Jul-99 1:19:33 -0400
For anybody out there that needs a set of rare lower control arms for a
Delorean,
there are a set available on Ebay,if you miss out don't say you can't find
any.
Claude
Vin#006383
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From: LANCEH@SMTP (Lance R Haslewood) {lanceh@zeta.org.au}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] LEATHER SEATS
Date: 31-Jul-99 19:54:47 +1000
Leather Seats!!! Well that's what I thought our DeLorean had .... until I
had a closer look. I was shocked to discover that the seat insert (the
centre section of the seat) is leather and the remainder of the seat is
synthetic. I wonder how much more of the leather interior is synthetic. I
welcome comments from the field.
Lance Haslewood
Australia
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From: STADAK@SMTP (Arnold Schurink) {stadak@euronet.nl}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Cars pulls away when braking
Date: 31-Jul-99 16:58:35 +0200
Hello everybody,
we've got a little problem with our D. The car pulls heavily to the left
when braking hard in order to slow down fast. A week ago we removed the
wheels to check out the brakes, but these seemed to be fine.
Does anybody have any clue to what might be the cause/solution? Your help is
extremely appreciated! Thanx!
Greetings from Arnie S, Hoogeveen,Holland, Europe.
Vin#10849
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From: STADAK@SMTP (Arnold Schurink) {stadak@euronet.nl}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Loud rear-end Clunking/Banging
Date: 31-Jul-99 16:58:38 +0200
The previous owner of our car also had loud clunking in the D. After being
fully checked the clunking sound was still there. Trying to discover where
the sound was coming from, they finally found the cause in the form of a
completely new spring coil that lay clunking somewhere on the bottom plate.
Presumably it wound up there during the construction process. Anyway, we
still have that new coil. I found it an amusing story.
Greetings from Arnie S, Hoogeveen, Holland, Europe.
Vin#10849
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From: RAPPARIV@SMTP (Ann & Ed Thompson) {RappaRivaRat@erols.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Lower Control Arms, "unavailable" parts, etc.
Date: 31-Jul-99 11:29:32 -0400
> For anybody out there that needs a set of rare lower control arms for a
> Delorean, there are a set available on Ebay, if you miss out don't say you
> can't find any.
>
> Claude
The control arm set being offered on eBay is Item #138905400 by spider@fishnet.com
in St. Paul. He says the arms have been sandblasted and epoxy coated but he does
not describe the overall condition otherwise. There is a picture and they "look"
okay, but.....caveat emptor. If anyone here on the DML is interested I would
suggest you email the seller for more information. The bidding is currently at $100
("reserve not yet met") with only one bidder so far. This is a "new item" on eBay
and the auction is not over until August 8th.
"Buy early, buy often!"
Regards,
Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982)
Midlothian, VA
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From: RAPPARIV@SMTP (Ann & Ed Thompson) {RappaRivaRat@erols.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion bars
Date: 31-Jul-99 11:57:44 -0400
> Mike,
> what you are saying is correct I agree with you one hundred percent. You
> are saying that the bars are only cold treated on the surface and not to the
> core, so when you take away that treated surface the bar becomes weak,
> correct?
Somehow earlier in this thread the discussion changed from the suspension
torsion bars to the torsion bars in the doors or the other way around.
The suspension torsion bars are not stainless steel, they will rust, and
I suppose they could be turned on a lathe for cleaning. The door torsion
bars are an entirely different animal. Let's all get on the same page here
so that the left hand knows what the right hand is doing. Or perhaps the
moderators should just close out this thread.
Regards,
Ed Thompson (#6419 since 1982)
Midlothian, VA
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From: DMC1440@SMTP (Aldo Buono) {dmc1440@earthlink.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] FW: Need Parts Cross Reference
Date: 31-Jul-99 13:20:07 -0400
De Lorean Midatlantic, the independent De Lorean owners club of the
midatlantic states (USA) maintains an up-to-date, thirty page, Parts
Interchange
List. It is more than just a Parts Interchange List, however.
It is a parts and service resource for De Lorean owners. It keeps
track of new products made by the Service Centers and others to
increase the reliability of De Lorean systems. It digests the
recommendations made on the De Lorean Mailing List, and publishes
those that merit consideration by De Lorean owners.
All of the established and reputable parts resources and service
centers in the USA are listed. It is updated and published annually
by De Lorean Midatlantic. I recommend to my members that they always
carry it in their De Lorean. It can mean the difference between
getting back on the road in one hour versus one to three days.
If you have a product or service that contributes to the reliable
operation and maintenance of a De Lorean Sports Car, I would like to
hear from you.
The Parts Interchange List is a benefit of membership in De Lorean
Midatlantic. Annual membership is only $12. Our new membership
packet also includes: Service Bulletin ST-33-12/81, "Water
Leaks-Body"; Parts Locator/Identifier List by Jim Banto of Tri-State
De Lorean Owners Club; DMC-News, Vol. 1, Num 3, which includes
articles on luggage rack installation, rebuilding your mode switch,
Tankzilla installation, and 140 mph speedometer conversion; our Club
Membership Directory, and the latest edition of THERMO TIME, the
newsletter of De Lorean Midatlantic.
You may become a member by visiting our website and completing and
mailing the application form found there.
clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/
Our website also contains our Schedule of Show and Social Events
as well
as pictures of club activities.
--
Aldo Buono, President, De Lorean Midatlantic, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
dmc1440@earthlink.net
Visit: clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/
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<TITLE>FW: [DML] Need Parts Cross Reference</TITLE>
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<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE><TT> De Lorean Midatlantic, the independent De Lorean owners club of the <BR>
midatlantic states (USA) maintains an up-to-date, thirty page, Parts Interchange<BR>
List. It is more than just a Parts Interchange List, however.<BR>
<BR>
It is a parts and service resource for De Lorean owners. It keeps <BR>
track of new products made by the Service Centers and others to <BR>
increase the reliability of De Lorean systems. It digests the <BR>
recommendations made on the De Lorean Mailing List, and publishes <BR>
those that merit consideration by De Lorean owners. <BR>
<BR>
All of the established and reputable parts resources and service <BR>
centers in the USA are listed. It is updated and published annually <BR>
by De Lorean Midatlantic. I recommend to my members that they always <BR>
carry it in their De Lorean. It can mean the difference between <BR>
getting back on the road in one hour versus one to three days. <BR>
<BR>
If you have a product or service that contributes to the reliable <BR>
operation and maintenance of a De Lorean Sports Car, I would like to <BR>
hear from you. <BR>
<BR>
The Parts Interchange List is a benefit of membership in De Lorean <BR>
Midatlantic. Annual membership is only $12. Our new membership <BR>
packet also includes: Service Bulletin ST-33-12/81, "Water <BR>
Leaks-Body"; Parts Locator/Identifier List by Jim Banto of Tri-State <BR>
De Lorean Owners Club; DMC-News, Vol. 1, Num 3, which includes <BR>
articles on luggage rack installation, rebuilding your mode switch, <BR>
Tankzilla installation, and 140 mph speedometer conversion; our Club <BR>
Membership Directory, and the latest edition of THERMO TIME, the <BR>
newsletter of De Lorean Midatlantic. <BR>
<BR>
You may become a member by visiting our website and completing and <BR>
mailing the application form found there.<BR>
<BR>
</TT></BLOCKQUOTE><TT> clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/<BR>
<BR>
Our website also contains our Schedule of Show and Social Events as well <BR>
as pictures of club activities. <BR>
</TT>-- <BR>
Aldo Buono, President, De Lorean Midatlantic, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, dmc1440@earthlink.net<BR>
Visit: clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/<BR>
<TT><BR>
</TT><BLOCKQUOTE><TT> <BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</TT></BLOCKQUOTE>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("DeLorean") {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: MURRAYF@SMTP (Murray Fisher) {murrayf@innw.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] (DML) LEATHER SEATS
Date: 31-Jul-99 10:40:20 -0700
Yes, the only leather used in the DeLorean is the seat inserts. EVERYTHING else is a nicely matching imitation. A local upholstery man worked with these when they were being made by a "Bridge of Weir" Connoly Leather. He since moved f
Murray
Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
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<DIV>Yes, the only leather used in the DeLorean is the seat inserts.
EVERYTHING else is a nicely matching imitation. A local upholstery
man worked with these when they were being made by a "Bridge of
Weir" Connoly Leather. He since moved from Europe to the US and ended up
here (Walla Walla, WA.) of all places. He also worked with the Rolls
leather upholstery and others. HE says a BETTER choice tho, if you really
want something to last, is Naugahyde. It wears much better than real
leather according to him. A Lincoln car I had a few years back had
an OPTION of CLOTH upholstery. IT cost a lot more than Leather!</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Murray </DIV>
<DIV>Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII</DIV>
<DIV>Washington State <BR> </DIV>
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From: MURRAYF@SMTP (Murray Fisher) {murrayf@innw.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Parts High Costs
Date: 31-Jul-99 10:50:34 -0700
When I see costs of parts for our DeLorean I don't blink an eye. I had a late Lincoln that got the RV mirror housing broken....It required about a $10 plastic housing as the rest was fine....No parts available. Buy the entire mirror to th
Murray
VIN: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
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<DIV>When I see costs of parts for our DeLorean I don't blink an eye. I
had a late Lincoln that got the RV mirror housing broken....It required about a
$10 plastic housing as the rest was fine....No parts available. Buy the
entire mirror to the tune of $300 installed, It was power and heated plus
painted to match the car! I tried to find a used one.
Not like the old days. Too labor intensive these days to take off a RV
mirror. I checked with several wrecking yards with their connections all
over the USA. The ONLY thing ANY of them would do, was to sell me an
entire door and let me take the mirror off. Wow. Then when I go to
get parts for the Lincoln they tell me it will take a week to 10 days if
not in stock I tell them I can get ANY DeLorean part over night if I
want to pay the extra shipping!! We are lucky to have those stacks
of parts in the warehouse.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Murray</DIV>
<DIV>VIN: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII</DIV>
<DIV>Washington State </DIV>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: MRCOPIES@SMTP (Mr. Copies) {mrcopies@jet2.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Were the 17000 series originally the 12000 series?
Date: 31-Jul-99 13:16:19 -0500
Here's a question....
I recently pulled my headliners to get redone and discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners make reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000 series renumbered for the Canadian market?
It also looks like someone in the factory had some time on their hands because there are doodles and dates on the inside with magic marker. :)
Thanks
mike@mrcopies.com
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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Here's a question....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>I recently pulled my headliners to get redone
and discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners make
reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000 series
renumbered for the Canadian market?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>It also looks like someone in the factory had
some time on their hands because there are doodles and dates on the inside with
magic marker. :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><A
href="mailto:mike@mrcopies.com">mike@mrcopies.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JUS4SHO@SMTP {Jus4sho@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: LEATHER SEATS
Date: 31-Jul-99 14:23:26 -0400
You may be pretty disappointed, but most of the "Leather" interor is VINYL!
Door panels, dash/binacle, A-pillar covers, knee pads and yes, some of the
seats! There really isn't much leather at all.
Steve
VIN 2650
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From: CBL302@SMTP {CBL302@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: LEATHER SEATS
Date: 31-Jul-99 14:41:21 -0400
In a message dated 7/31/99 10:17:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lanceh@zeta.org.au writes:
<< Leather Seats!!! Well that's what I thought our DeLorean had .... until I
had a closer look. I was shocked to discover that the seat insert (the
center section of the seat) is leather and the remainder of the seat is
synthetic. I wonder how much more of the leather interior is synthetic. I
welcome comments from the field. >>
On my Vin #000570,parts of the dash are leather,all the knee pads under the
dash are real leather,and the crash pad by the glove box are real leather,vs
the later cars are vinyl, and because of the early vin# ,you could tell that
a lot of the interior parts were hand crafted,and a lot of extra time was
spent on detail,vin 570 has a black interior.
Claude
vin 000570
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From: JUS4SHO@SMTP {Jus4sho@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Removing Rust Stains
Date: 31-Jul-99 14:51:33 -0400
Regarding rust from ordinary steel wool being used on the stainless body of a
Delorean: Has anyone ever tried carefully using a high pressure power washer
to actually get the steel particles out of the stainless? Rust stain
cleaners will remove the stains caused as the embedded steel particles
rusting, but if the particles aren't actually removed, (if they even can be)
the rust stains will eventually return.
I haven't actually had this problem so I haven't had a chance to test this
theory, but I was just wondering if anyone has tried it or has a reason not
to. Just a suggestion.
Steve
VIN 2650
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From: TONILFHS@SMTP {ToniLFHS98@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Electrical problem
Date: 31-Jul-99 15:27:57 -0400
To all:
I need help to diagnose the problem with the charging circuit on my 81 D. My
ignition light stays on and my voltage meter indicated 11 volts and dropping.
Since I have the original Ducellier alternator, I automatically assume that
the alternator has gone bad and promptly ordered a replacement from PJ Grady.
This morning after I replaced the alternator, the same problem remains. Now
I am at a lost as to what's wrong.
The problem with the ignition light started shortly after I have the A/C
recharged with 2.5lbs of R-12 and now the A/C works beautifully. Could it be
a defective replacement alternator?
Thanks in advance for any info that can help solve the problem.
Bill
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From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Torsion bars
Date: 31-Jul-99 14:38:40 -0500
Since the DelLorean DOES NOT have torsion bars in the suspension, I concur.
Don't nick the door torsion bars, they will snap.
Another thread bites the dust, unless something fresh comes along.
Dave - moderator for the day.
>Somehow earlier in this thread the discussion changed from the suspension
>torsion bars to the torsion bars in the doors or the other way around.
>The suspension torsion bars are not stainless steel, they will rust, and
>I suppose they could be turned on a lathe for cleaning. The door torsion
>bars are an entirely different animal. . . . Or perhaps the
>moderators should just close out this thread.
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: KRAZ@SMTP (Ben Krasnow) {kraz@wco.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Heater problems
Date: 31-Jul-99 12:46:38 -0700
It's funny to hear about heating problems in the middle of the summer,
but it was cold last night, and I wish that my heater was still working!
I turn the heat control all the way to the hot side, and the vent
control to either the mid-level vents or the footwells, and I get zero
hot air. It worked just fine the last time I used it (last winter). At
first I suspected the coolant control valve was sticking in the shut
position, but it is operating as it should, closing on max A/C, and open
the rest of the time. If I feel the heater hose on either side of the
control valve, I can tell there is hot coolant available after the
engine warms up. The top aluminum pipe that carries hot coolant to the
heater core is also hot near the engine. But, by the the time the pipe
gets to the front of the car it is stone cold (no hot water at the
heater core). Does this mean that no coolant is flowing through the
pipe? Has anyone ever heard of these being blocked before? I recently
changed the water pump on this car, could that have anything to do with
it? Thanks again for the help!
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From: JERRY1@SMTP (Gerald Deutsch) {Jerry1@eclipse.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Were the 17000 series originally the 12000 series?
Date: 31-Jul-99 16:28:20 -0400
You, or the assemblers probably mistook the 7 for a 2. Understand? Your vin has a 7 where the other number has a 2. It could have been written badly, or just a mistake. People are human don't forget. :o) ---Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Copies <mrcopies@jet2.net>
To: dmcnews@egroups.com <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, July 31, 1999 3:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Were the 17000 series originally the 12000 series?
Here's a question....
I recently pulled my headliners to get redone and discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners make reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000 series renumbered for the Canadian market?
It also looks like someone in the factory had some time on their hands because there are doodles and dates on the inside with magic marker. :)
Thanks
mike@mrcopies.com
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<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>You, or the assemblers probably mistook the 7
for a 2. Understand? Your vin has a 7 where the other number has a 2. It could
have been written badly, or just a mistake. People are human don't forget. :o)
---Dan</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><B>-----Original Message-----</B><BR><B>From:
</B>Mr. Copies <<A
href="mailto:mrcopies@jet2.net">mrcopies@jet2.net</A>><BR><B>To: </B><A
href="mailto:dmcnews@egroups.com">dmcnews@egroups.com</A> <<A
href="mailto:dmcnews@egroups.com">dmcnews@egroups.com</A>><BR><B>Date:
</B>Saturday, July 31, 1999 3:49 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>[DML] Were the 17000
series originally the 12000 series?<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Here's a question....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>I recently pulled my headliners to get
redone and discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners
make reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000
series renumbered for the Canadian market?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>It also looks like someone in the factory
had some time on their hands because there are doodles and dates on the
inside with magic marker. :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2><A
href="mailto:mike@mrcopies.com">mike@mrcopies.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2></FONT> </DIV>
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JCOX4001@SMTP {JCox4001@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Orlando area servicing
Date: 31-Jul-99 16:37:47 -0400
I apoligize that I did not get then Name of the individual looking for help
in Orlando, or I would have e-mailed privately. I bought my Delorean from
Sunshine Classics in Kissimmee. The had done alot of service work on my car
with the previous owner. The owner of the shop is Steven Clarke. They deal
in rare, exotic, and muscle cars. If you want more info, please e-mail me
privately. They are extremely professional.
Jeff
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: JAMES@SMTP (James Espey) {james@usadmc.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: VINs (was Were the 17000 series originally the 12000?)
Date: 31-Jul-99 16:10:29 -0500
In-reply-to: <002F01BEDB80CA68>9160$845532d1
I looked under some headliners on the 82 and 83's we have here in the shop:
VIN 11004 JAN 82 - says V11004 on both doors, under the headliner
VIN 16328 AUG 82 - says V11328 on both doors, under the headliner
VIN 16428 AUG 82 - says V11428 on both doors, under the headliner
What I want to know now is, Ray Haug owns 16348 AUG 82 - what's under his
headliner? Also, Bryan Pearce owns 11529 JAN 82 - the way the doors are
marked on 16328 and 16428, you'd think his would be 16529, not 11529. In
fact, Knut, owns 16344, have you ever had your headliners off and looked?
The story grows more curious...
James
At 1:16 PM -0500 7/31/99, Mr. Copies wrote:
> Here's a question.... I recently pulled my headliners to get redone
>and discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners make
>reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000 series
>renumbered for the Canadian market? It also looks like someone in the
>factory had some time on their hands because there are doodles and dates
>on the inside with magic marker. :) Thanks mike@mrcopies.com
At 1:16 PM -0500 7/31/99, Mr. Copies wrote:
> Here's a question.... I recently pulled my headliners to get redone
>and >discovered the all the markings on the door behind my headliners make
>>reference to VIN#12089 ....my VIN# is 17089. Were the 12000 series
>renumbered >for the Canadian market? It also looks like someone in the
>factory had some
>time on their hands because there are doodles and dates on the inside with
>magic marker. :) Thanks mike@mrcopies.com
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: RYBETH@SMTP (ryan arsenault) {rybeth@flash.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Darkening Polishes
Date: 31-Jul-99 18:04:41 -0400
Hi list. I read about the different stainless steel polishes that are
out on the market. I have read of how some darken the stainless steel.
This is not a good thing, right? What can you recommend as the best
polish to use?
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("dmcnews submit") {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] ADMIN: DMCNEWS Web Page Updated
Date: 31-Jul-99 21:52:08 -0500
After a few weeks working on the web page (and my FP2000 skills), I'm
finally ready to have you check it out. Go to www.dmcnews.com and take a
look. I've been cleaning up the pages, fixing links, etc. I've hopefully
streamlined the structure a little. There's still work to do on the
directory and backissues, but it's coming. More features are planned now
that I'm about done with the basic setup.
First - if you've bookmarked the page as www.delorean.com, PLEASE add a link
to www.dmcnews.com. "Delorean.com" will probably be changing to something
else in the future (it is still "owned" by James Espey), and I'd hate to
have you lose track of the mailing list page.
I've added a section near the top of the main page that gives the quick
links to subscription management. It also gives current status of the list
including the number of subscribers and the number of bouncing subscribers.
If there are any known operational problems they will be noted here. If you
ever stop receiving the mailing list, check here for any information that I
may have posted and instructions on how to get it fixed.
We've added information about the moderation team. Some of us are a little
shy, but hopefully that will change. The DMCNews store remains closed. There
is currently no stock to sell. The information remains posted on the items
that were sold here just for reference purposes. I'll eventually make it
look more like reference material.
Many more cars for sale have been added. I've been pleasantly surprised
about the popularity of this feature. There are now 34 cars listed for sale,
all around the world and in all price ranges from $9,999 to a pair for $55k,
including a dealer sign.
I'd like to change the headline photo periodically, perhaps once a month if
I get enough quality entries. If you have an original, interesting photo of
YOUR DeLorean that you'd like to see here feel free to send me the picture
at webmaster@dmcnews.com. I can deal with just about any electronic or
paper format. Email privately for an address if you need to send paper. I'm
especially looking for "artistic" (whatever that means) shots of the car, in
unusual locations or with interesting lighting effects. Please don't bother
submitting photos that you have pulled from other sites on the internet or
other copyrighted material.
Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Dave
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP ("dmcnews submit") {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: DSWINGLE@SMTP (Dave Swingle) {dswingle@enteract.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] ADMIN: Bouncing Emails - what to do
Date: 31-Jul-99 21:57:25 -0500
Tonight I reset all 75 members that were "bouncing". Most of these are
people with "Hotmail" addresses, my guess is that they don't give you a very
big mailbox and start bouncing messages when the mailbox fills up. When this
happens eGroups sends out a "message" warning you that you are about to be
put on hold, if the warning note bounces you are changed to "bouncing"
status and the mail stops being sent to you.
I'm hoping that this message get through to the boucing members that may
have thought the list just went away. This is the last time I'll do this, in
the future if you notice the DMCNews stops coming in the mail, please drop a
note to moderator@dmcnews.com and ask to be reset.
dave
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: RADDAD@SMTP {raddad@cmn.net}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Darkening Polishes
Date: 31-Jul-99 21:15:55 -0600
>Hi list. I read about the different stainless steel polishes that are
>out on the market. I have read of how some darken the stainless steel.
>This is not a good thing, right? What can you recommend as the best
>polish to use?
----------------------------
Ryan, the darkening is not permanent. It is just that the residue from the
polish (usually a petroleum distillate) makes the stainless look darker.
Soap and water or window cleaner will return it to its original "shade".
Favorite polishes are like noses - everyone has one, but they are all
different. Though a tad expensive, I'd currently recommend trying the new
SS Gloss from DMC.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867 (don't know what is under my headliners)
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: OZZMAN28@SMTP {OZZMAN283@aol.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: wanting to trade GTO for a D in a local museum-need help
Date: 31-Jul-99 23:55:15 -0400
that seems like a lot for a d with that much wrong with it
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: FLUFFY@SMTP (William T Wilson) {fluffy@snurgle.org}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: older or newer model
Date: 1-Aug-99 0:16:02 -0400
In-reply-to: <37A3E7BD>.F0DF4013
On Sat, 31 Jul 1999, Hickman wrote:
> as soon as i find the right one. i was wondering if i should get the
> first year model or the last year model because of updates, and do you
> guys support my decision.
Doesn't make any difference. At this point the single biggest factor in
the quality of the car is how it has been maintained. The recalls are not
particularly hard or expensive to do, and just about any well-maintained
car will have had them all done already anyway.
The best thing to do is to simply look for a good car, and not worry about
the model year.
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To: DMCNEWS@SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
From: AT88MPH@SMTP (Duke) {at88mph@mobis.com}
Reply-to: DMCNEWS @ SMTP {dmcnews@egroups.com}
Subject: [DML] Re: Cars pulls away when braking
Date: 1-Aug-99 1:06:15 -0500
Arnold,
I had this problem once myself. It seems that the frame was off slightly.
(I have no idea how this happened, I've owned the car for 13 years now and
it's never been in an accident) Anyway, look at your tires on both sides
of the car. Do they line up evenly on both sides? My drivers side wheel
was further back than my passenger side and I had a body shop align them to
specs and my pulling problem is gone.
Hope this helps,
Duke
-----Original Message-----
From: Arnold Schurink <stadak@euronet.nl>
To: dmcnews@egroups.com <dmcnews@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, July 31, 1999 2:38 PM
Subject: [DML] Cars pulls away when braking
>Hello everybody,
>we've got a little problem with our D. The car pulls heavily to the left
>when braking hard in order to slow down fast. A week ago we removed the
>wheels to check out the brakes, but these seemed to be fine.
>Does anybody have any clue to what might be the cause/solution? Your help
is
>extremely appreciated! Thanx!
>
>Greetings from Arnie S, Hoogeveen,Holland, Europe.
>Vin#10849
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