RE: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS
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RE: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS





Okay, here’s the latest update.  Started troubleshooting this morning from scratch.  First the cold start valve--took off the fuel line and had residual fuel pressure.  Jumpered the valve and it worked as advertised.  Next, checked the frequency valve, and heard it humming.  BUTTTTTTT-----I put my hand on it and could not feel any vibration.  Hooked up a spare I had in my parts locker and all of a sudden, I hear a new  humming sound.  I grab hold of the spare and it is vibrating as it should.  Where is the humming I hear?  I finally track it down to the idle speed motor---it is humming just like a frequency valve.  So---I replace the frequency valve and now am at the point where I have one question------When you turn the key on,  should the idle speed motor vibrate and hum with the key on, but without the engine running????
 
Next, I did not try to start it after replacing the FV.  I traced my substantial oil leak to something I have never seen.  It appears to be coming from the dipstick tube where it joins the engine,  but I cannot be sure because of the inaccessibility of this area.  Has anyone ever had an oil leak in this area??  I do not want to run the engine until I can sort out this oil leak.
 
Last question----do I need to have all components in place when I run the car?  IE---air filter housing, all air hoses connected, and tamper proof plug installed on mixture control?
 
Sorry to act like a newbie, but it has been a few years since I have been inside a Delorean.
 
Mike
 
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From: Martin Gutkowski
Sent: ‎October‎ ‎27‎, ‎2013 ‎6‎:‎14‎ ‎AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS
 
 

If the problem is fuelling, which it appears to be, and you say all the injectors look good and by association therefore so is the metering head (?), the only part then responsible for mixture is the CPR. I've only seen it once but I did have one which was stuck open and gave a really low control pressure which made for very rich running.

Check primary pressure isn't too high as well.
h3
Do the injectors spray well at low flow, ie idle?

I do keep coming back to simply adjusting the mixture screw down - you can easily make it too rich to run at idle but you haven't done anything which could have offset it that much, have you? (Eg replaced the oring under the metering head).

Martin

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From: mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 16:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
ReplyTo: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS


So you think it might be the CPR?  I will check that pressure tomorrow and report back.
 
Mike
 
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 6:14 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS
 
Sounds like you might have your cause if not the answer. Have you got a pressure gauge to get on the CPR line? She's running excessively rich for sure

Martin
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From: mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 16:09:29 -0700 (PDT)
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
ReplyTo: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS

Martin,   I must have confused you.  I'm keeping the car at 2000 rpm because if it drops below 1500,  it will quit.  Then the only way I can start it is pull the plugs and clean all the black soot off them and then let it set for a couple hours.  And no, I have not touched the mixture screw, although the cover is missing.
 
Latest update:  I just came up from the garage.  I had started the car, kept it running at 2000 rpm until I started to get a temperature reading on my dash.  The longer it ran, the higher I had to keep the rpm so it wouldn't quit.  After about 15 minutes, I was up to 3000 rpm to keep it running.  The whole time, it was missing and blowing black smoke out the tailpipes.  I shut it down, let it sit for a few minutes and tried a restart.  No start or even a hint of starting.  Now I have an oil leak to go along with the starting problems, but that can wait until figure out the rich mixture problem.
 
Mike
 
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS
 
And you haven&apos;t touched the mixture screw since she last ran? I&apos;ll assume yes.The 2000rpm idle is probably the idlespeed thermistor or more likely connections to it. If the plug on the idle module shows open circuit across pins 9 and 11, you have your culprit for the high idle.Alternatively the idle ECU could itself be bad. Can you borrow one for a quick swap test?The high mixture could well be that the injectors are now flowing better than they ever did. But I&apos;d say sort that idle out then work on the fuelling. Martin
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From: mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 13:44:38 -0700 (PDT)
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
ReplyTo: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS

Martin,   If you are refering to plunger attached to the air intake flapper, then yes.  It moves freely.  As a matter of fact, air intake was fully open  at 2000 rpm.
 
Mike

 
From: Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, October 26, 2013 3:31 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS
 
Is the plunger in the metering head moving freely? Best Wishes, Martin
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From: mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>
Sender: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2013 13:04:42 -0700 (PDT)
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
ReplyTo: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] STARTING PROBLEMS

Okay, got one that has me stumped.  First, some history.
 
This car has not run in 8+ years.  It was stored inside with ethanol gas in the tank--first big mistake.  I pulled the fuel pump, drained the tank, and cleaned the entire inside.  I installed a new fuel pump with the John Harvey pickup and return (no more rubber hoses to deterioate).  Next I flushed the entire system from the fuel pump to the mixture control using 93 octane gas.  I pulled the plugs, cleaned and tested 4.0.  I pulled the fuel injectors, cleaned and tested.  Good 35 degree spray pattern on all six.  I purchased a new battery and was ready to big test.
 
After several trys, engine caught and ran at ran rough at 2000 rpm.  It wouldn&apos;t idle and I shut it down after about 10 seconds to check for any leaks.  All checked out dry so I tried to start again.  Would not start, although it was always right at the verge of starting.  I pulled the plugs and injectors and recleaned them.  Put it all back together and tried again.  Started again, but I had to keep the rpm above 2000 or it would try to die.  Had tons of white smoke coming out the exhaust, but that cleared after about 15 seconds.  After about 15 more seconds, I shut it down again to check things.  Again everything looked good, so another try at restart.  No matter what I did could I get it to start and every try produced a strong fuel smell at the exhaust pipes, so I slept on it last night.
 
This morning,  I tried again.  After cranking for about 5 seconds, it started but wouldn&apos;t run at less that 2000 rpm and had black smoke coming out the exhaust.  Let it run for about 10 minutes this time to warm everything up.  Car appeared to be missing the whole time.  Started pulling plug wires to see if I could isolate misfiring cylinder(s).  Pulled #3 first (firing), then #2 (firing), and then #1 (firing) but didn&apos;t get it back on quick enough and engine stalled.  Would not restart.  Pulled all six plugs and all six covered with black soot, indicating very over rich condition.
 
I know this has been long, but my question is  "where do I go from here"?  The car won&apos;t idle, it appears to be running super rich, and it won&apos;t start a second time after running for any period of time.
 
Mike   TPS    1630
 
 
 
 
 
 

 



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