[DML] Re: She starts (painfully), she runs (mostly), she doesn't go anywhere...

["Welmoed" <welmoedj@xxxxxxxxx>]

> > Allowing a car to reach operational temperatures by merely idling is not the right way and even can be destructive in the long run.
> 
> This seems to fly against conventional wisdom. What makes you say this?
> 
Destructive may be too strong a word, however it's common knowlegde that driving a car to get to operational temperatures is better than let it idle.
It's also an advice provided by car manufacturers for more than one reason (e.g. environment).
The car may get warm, even hot (to the hand) after a some time of idling, but that takes much longer than a mere 10 minutes.
If you have observed your oil pressure gauge while idling you will have noticed the pressure to be lower than while driving (another reason to start the car and drive it).

It's not only firing up that keeps the system in good condition.
Regular pre-emptive maintenance is the base of good condition (which BTW also applies to ourselves :) ).
Ignoring a bad situation will most likely let it get worse over time.

Gasoline is not what it used to be in the days this system has been developed.
Nowadays gasoline contains additions that are damaging to old(er) fuel systems. Think of ethanol, which is hygroscopic and therefore can cause rust in metal tanks and fuel lines. Besides that old rubber parts in a fuel system deteriorate at a faster pace due to ethanol.
If one stores a car for longer term there are fuel additions that prevent or slow down the degrading of fuel.
Emptying a tank will only be benefical if you are going to store the car for years.

Comparing classic/vintage cars with (more) modern cars with different fuel delivery systems is like comparing the Spirit of St Louis with a modern jet. Besides that they also use totally different fuel type and systems.

You mention not having checked the CPR. Perhaps you could open it to check the fuel screen inside (for the fuel line to the FD) and the wiring for the warmup element.
It has been found that some of these wires (power) may rub the insulation off and short against the casing.

Regarding the FD, the PPR (the bolt like part at the right hand side) has two O-rings, which also may deteriorate over time and by ethanol.
A (going) bad PPR may also lead to degraded pressure.
DMCTalk has an extended discussion about the type of O-rings to use in our fuel system (Viton).

Other causes for bad start/hot start issues can be found in the system that controls cold start (leaking valve/injector), the ISM (TTS, idle thermistor), or the vacuum system (minor or large leaks).
Is your FV working while the engine is running?
Did you check spark plugs to see if the engine - when running - has a lean or rich mixture?

Hope this helps you to get your car in good running order.

Welmoed.



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, JP Hindin <jplist2008@...> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> On Fri, 14 Jun 2013, Welmoed wrote:
> > Allowing a car to reach operational temperatures by merely idling is not the right way and even can be destructive in the long run.
> 
> This seems to fly against conventional wisdom. What makes you say this?
> 
> > The D can start and run reliably if not neglected over a long period of time.
> > Of course during a winter period it's difficult to find the right moment to give her a proper spin.
> > In such cases better prepare the car for long "sleep".
> 
> I was under the impression the KJet requires fairly regular fire-ups to
> move the gas through the system and keep in a working state. It seems to
> me that when it's left idle (as in, non-running) is when Bad Things
> Happen.
> 
> If a 'long sleep' requires draining all the fuel out of the system, it can
> be done, but it's certainly inconvenient. (My 43 year old Ford with
> massive twin side-draught carbs - /Italian/ carbs no less - does not
> require nearly as much pampering)
> 
> > For now:
> > - check fuel quality and if not sure, drain the tank or add fresh fuel to see if that helps.
> > - check everything involved that cause your hot start problem.
> 
> I drained the entire fuel system last year and cleaned out the tank by
> hand, so unless Iowa gas degrades over six months, it should be fine.
> Prior to my purchasing the car the entire system was pretty much replaced
> excepting the Warm Up Regulator. Which I suppose I could do to round-out
> the system.
> 
> So what's the solution? How do you keep this system operating reliably
> over the long term?
> 
>  - JP
> 
> 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, JP Hindin <jplist2008@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > My DeLorean has a hot-start issue that I've not bothered dealing with yet,
> > > so it usually only gets out for 30 minute runs out-and-back. Last time it
> > > was on the road was probably December. Over the Iowa winter I'd fire it up
> > > once a month, generally, a let it idle for ten minutes to get the moisture
> > > out of the oil. I've been waiting for nice days in the summer, but it's
> > > rained a LOT out here, so I haven't started it up in maybe three or four
> > > months.
> > >
> > > Usually it's a bit of a pain to start. Lots of fire and die and then
> > > eventually it'll settle into a clean idle and run like a champ.
> > >
> > > Yesterday I got in to take it out because it was finally a nice day and it
> > > was a real bear to even get it to idle, and after at least five minutes of
> > > crank-fire-and-die, it settled into an unusually lumpy idle, but ANY
> > > throttle input would cause the engine revs to drop to the point of it
> > > dying. As such, I was unable to actually go anywhere because the best it
> > > could manage was an idle.
> > >
> > > Is this a common issue with the KJet that I've yet to come across in my
> > > nine months of DeLorean ownership, or should I be concerned?
> > >
> > > Thanks all;
> > >
> > >  - JP
> > > 50441
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
>




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