[DML] Re: Grounding.

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

My ground bus *IS* made of 4 gauge twisted wire battery cable.

At each junction in the original harness I stripped a saddle clamp's width of insulation, slid the saddle clamp into position, stripped the heat shrink off the factory junction, then used the saddle clamp to press the junction and the cable against each other:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/547536_357252900986633_1055858619_n.jpg
Each saddle clamp was then wrapped in heat shrink tape to protect it from oxidation:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/534213_357245200987403_538568872_n.jpg

The OEM ground system was not changed -- I *SUPPLEMENTED* it with parallel 4 gauge cable, all the way to the battery:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/390111_294243023954288_1304124496_n.jpg

Bill Robertson
#5939

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Cars" <twodelo2@...> wrote:
>
> Not to beat a dead Delo, but while Bill's idea of a heavy cable is good, I
> believe that a good piece of braided cable...like that sometimes found on
> negative battery cables, would be a much easier means of accomplishing the
> same effect.  Plenty of conductivity, and connecting to can be done with a
> screw and appropriate washers and anywhere in the cable without having to
> remove insulation, etc.  The washers should include penetrating stars.
> Which of course is what should be part of any of the grounds to the chassis,
> frame, etc.  The points penetrate the oxidized/paint on the metal and prove
> to be "air tight".
> 
> The capacitors might not be needed around switches and inductive devices,
> probably reversed diodes would serve the same process.  The kicks from
> relays and motors coming on and going off (inductive devices) go negative,
> which is damped out by the diode.  Don't remove the capacitors now...but
> adding diodes wouldn't hurt anything.
> 
> Al Roberts
> twodelo2@...
> VIN 16049
>




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