Re: [DML] Contemplating a Carb Swap

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Chad's last paragraph perhaps should have been his first: 
"It's also beneficial to me since my expertise in automobiles is routed in the 1970s; the best era of automotive engineering."

Based on our conversations at DCS -- none of which involved carbureting his DeLorean BTW, just the other cars in his stable and the vintage cars he deals with professionally -- I suspect Chad's primary motivation is to convert his DeLorean's fuel delivery to something he is most familiar with and something that matches his other vehicles. In that respect his motivation is no different than some of the older owners I have assisted who grew up with carburetion.

In such context Chad's fuel pump problem in Chicago was the straw that broke the camel's back, not the primary motivator.

Since carbureting a DeLorean only requires one "permanent" modification -- the throttle cable needs to be cut shorter because the throttle plates are relocated to the center of the engine (making a big loop in a K-Jet length cable doesn't work very well) -- the question in Chad's case isn't "why carburete?" it is "why not?" If Chad ever decides to go back to K-Jet he can run a new throttle cable. Everything else simply unbolts and K-Jet rebolts in its place. 

Remember also that unlike an EFI conversion, absolutely no wiring mods are necessary for carburetion (to operate the choke heater most owners stick a quick connect in one of the unused ECU harness connectors and run a new line out the distributor tach grommet -- simply unplug the quick connect and pull the wire out to return to stock).

I suppose it may be possible to talk Chad out of his decision. It is also possible that arguing against his choice will only make him more resolute. The next 24 months will tell....

Bill Robertson
#5939

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@...> wrote:
>
> Chad, 
> I drive around Dallas this year in 100 degree weather for 3 solid months
> with no fuel delivery problem with my $89.00 fuel pump in my Twin Turbo car.
> 
> I have no problems. 
> If you will check the voltage at the pump at a fast idle when the car is a
> normal operating temperature you may find the problem is only 11 volts and
> not the alternator voltage of around 13 volts it should be. 
> Pump are electric motors and they over heat and crater if not fed the
> voltage they were designed to run on.  
> I have a fix for it.
> 
> John Hervey
> www.deloreanautoparts.com
> www.specialtauto.com
> 




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