Re: [DML] Overheating, idle speed and stalling issues

[gmfm1@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I haven't seen anyone suggest a compression test on the cylinders to see if the head gasket is blown. Any reason you wouldn't do that to check the head gaskets?

Thanks,
Gary Masie

----- Original Message -----
From: jedimasterglenn 
Date: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:22 pm
Subject: [DML] Overheating, idle speed and stalling issues
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

> Need some advice (or a DeLorean mechanic to open shop in MA!!) 
> on what to try next for what I think are 3 separate issues:
> 
> 1. I recently replaced my entire cooling system: radiator, 
> fans & fan assembly, new water pump & thermostat, coolant 
> bottle, and all the hoses except the ones to the heater core 
> (all of them...even the small ones under the car). I added a 
> valve (petcock) near the radiator to make bleeding easier. I 
> have NOT put in any kind of self-bleeder system. I've bled the 
> system several times per the instructions here 
> (http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/08/burping-your-new-
> delorean-baby.html). But every time I bleed it, I find air. I 
> bleed it until there is no air. 
> 
> After bleeding, if I start it cold and leave it running/idling, 
> it stays around 150F. When driving, temp stays consistent 
> around 180F, but if I come to a stop for longer than a couple 
> mins, the temp creeps up and will continue past 220. For 
> example, I drove for an hour on back roads and highway today and 
> it ran around 180F the entire drive). But when I got home and 
> left it idling in the driveway, the temp started to rise as 
> described. The new fans do work. I jumped them to test and 
> also heard them come on at a bit less than 200F. I noticed they 
> shut off when the temp went above 220...which I suspect is air 
> causing an issue. And of course, I didn't let the temp go any 
> higher and shut the car off. There are no coolant leaks that I 
> can see and the coolant level holds at where I fill it (about 1 
> inch over the main opening in one of the new stainless tanks). 
> 
> I have the fans wired to pull the air through the radiator from 
> front of the car to back vs push...which I think is 
> right...right? 
> 
> 2. Prior to the cooling system replacement and since, my idle 
> speed has been rough. When I first start the car, the idle is 
> good, hovering just below 1000rpms. But as it warms up, it 
> starts to seek up and down between 800-1100rpms. I've checked 
> the air flow meter inlet & intake manifold seals for leaks (I 
> replaced all the manifold seals when I did the cooling system). 
> I think these are fine. 
> 
> 3. And rounding out my collection of headaches is what I like 
> to call the "downshift-stall mystery". I have a manual 
> transmission. Again, this was happening prior to the cooling 
> system overhaul. It doesn't happen consistently, but when it 
> does it's always when stepping on the clutch and always at low 
> speed, when downshifting(usually from 3rd to 2nd). I step on 
> the clutch and the rpms abruptly drop to zero or close to it. 
> Before I have time to shift gears, the car has stalled. 
> Sometimes it shifts fine and other times it starts to stall but 
> recovers. It idles without stalling, but as noted in #2, the 
> idle seeks. Only thing I've tried is adjusting the idle speed 
> microswitch, but to no avail. I have the microswitch set so 
> that the throttle striker just barely trips the switch when the 
> striker is at rest position. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Glenn
> 5391 
> 
>


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