[DML] Re: Doors

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Doors proved so problematic that the entire assembly sequence was changed to accommodate them. Two doors were matched to a specific underbody then laboriously test fitted until they worked well enough. Only then was the underbody, with the doors already attached, transferred to a chassis on a Tellus carrier.

Here's a shot of underbodies and doors, in matched pairs, lined up along the outside wall of the assembly building: http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/419715_354058421306081_100001057778755_1053815_954007776_n.jpg

This shot shows cars with doors already in place before other body panels, interiors, and in some cases even wheels attached: http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/417329_354059121306011_100001057778755_1053817_767672138_n.jpg

Gullwing doors are a nice styling feature, but in assembly line manufacture they proved to be a nightmare.

Bill Robertson
#5939



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@...> wrote:
>
> My guess how the factory did it, they probably did a few by trial and error and once they got it good they made up a gauge or template so they could position and tighten the hinges. They may have had to "fine tune" it on each car but at least they were close. And Yes, you MUST do this BEFORE you tighten the torsion bar. In this case, if you only messed with one hinge you are not too bad off. I would remove the torsion bar and strut and by trial and error, try to realign the door. It is not easy because the door is very heavy without the torsion bar or strut to balance against the weight of the door. You must be very careful not to get your hands or fingers caught, you should have an assistant to help. Mark and I saw first-hand the damage you can do to a door by removing it WITHOUT UNDOING THE TORSION BAR FIRST! Claude L did it and ruined several doors. By the time you are done you will be able to do push-ups with one hand!
> David Teitelbaum
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy <malevy_nj@> wrote:
> >
> > Good catch Dave..  I missed that he was having trouble with the FRONT one..   YES, you have to release the torsion bar before removing the front hinge bolts!!
> > 
> > I have had luck maneuvering the front hinge by just loosening the bolts one turn, then prying with a pry bar (or 2) and avoiding the torsion bar removal, but the safest thing to do is release the torsion bar. 
> >  
> > 
> > --- On Fri, 3/16/12, daveswingle2 <swingle_dmc@> wrote:
> > 
> > > From: daveswingle2 <swingle_dmc@>
> > > Subject: [DML] Re: Doors
> > > To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Date: Friday, March 16, 2012, 9:58 PM
> > > Yes -the door can move quite a bit on
> > > the hinge (there is a large captive-nut strip and the holes
> > > are oval). It is very difficult to get the door to move on
> > > the front hinge, though, due to the tension of the torsion
> > > bar trying to turn the hinge. 
> > > 
> > > When you loosened the bolt, the door probably moved downward
> > > on the hinge from its own weight, and now you need to lift
> > > it back up. To do this you may have to completely relax the
> > > torsion bar. Get help if you have not done this before -
> > > it's relatively dangerous (error = broken window/damaged
> > > bar/damage roof panel).
> > > 
> > > You MAY be able to loosen the two hinge bolts and using a
> > > pry bar against the body (move the weatherstrip) lift up on
> > > the door, so try that first. 
> > > 
> > > Dave S
> >
>




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