Re: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs

[Allen Mayorga <allen.mayorga@xxxxxxxxx>]

thanks




________________________________
From: Tom Tait <TTait@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 2:05:50 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs





Call or email the vendor you brought it from sand they will give you
another copy.

From: dmcnews@yahoogroups .com [mailto:dmcnews@yahoogroups .com] On Behalf
Of Allen Mayorga
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 7:53 AM
To: dmcnews@yahoogroups .com
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs

I b ought the relay kit but lost the instructions - anybody know how the
color wires connect to the switch?

____________ _________ _________ __
From: dadoc2791 <gekko@xxxxxxxx <mailto:gekko% 40flex.com> >
To: dmcnews@yahoogroups .com <mailto:dmcnews% 40yahoogroups. com> 
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 9:36:52 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Headlight switch repairs

Dave,

No question that the overall design is poor in regard to the amperage
carried by the switch in the original schematic, but I have about 35k
miles on my car and this is the first time (to my knowledge) it (the
switch) has required repair, so I figure I've been pretty lucky with it.
Either that or it hasn't been driven at night much. :o)

Craig
07181

--- In dmcnews@yahoogroups .com, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Doing this repair is a short-term solution. Too much current for the
switch causes it to get hot. Consider adding relays like John H offers
or you can do it yourself if you are handy.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@yahoogroups .com, "dadoc2791" <gekko@> wrote:
> >
> > Just a note for those who have had minor difficulties with their
headlight switch.....
> > My switch began getting 'flakey' where, when I punched for
headlights it would sometimes not fire them up; so I had to punch it
off, double punch again and sometimes it took 3-4 cycles to get the
headlights to stay on.
> > I remembered somebody talking on the list about repair/rebuild of
switches that weren't entirely melted down and that it wasn't all that
difficult to do, so I decided to attempt it.
> > I turned off all power (I have a battery cut-out switch) and pulled
the switch (of course, have to pull the instrument control panel off
first to make it accessible) and took the switch to the bench. It was
easy enough to pop the innerds out of the housing using a small
screwdriver and gently prying the sides out to release the retainer
nubs. Inside I found the neoprene around the copper slides was just
slightly melted around them so I used a utility knife to trim off the
strips of melted plastic. Then I used my dremmel tool with a small
stainless wire wheel to clean up the copper....ALL the copper, including
the plug blades outside. I gave the spring contacts a slight tweak to
keep them firmly hugging the contact strips when they are engaged, put a
drop of white grease on the switch locator rod and re-assembled the
whole thing. Total repair job took about 15 minutes. Reinstalled and it
works perfectly. (Note: the switch mechanism only fits into the
housing one way....be sure to notice that when disassembling! )
> > Obviously, this is not the course for a badly melted switch or one
that has other organic problems but for a periodically tempramental
switch, it is easier than I figured and could save some folks the $50+
for a new one, at least for a while.
> > 
> > Good luck and Drive Stainless!
> > 
> > Craig Werner
> > 07181
> >
>

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