Re: [DML] Re: IDLE ISSUES(FIXED)-No Acceleraration

[John Podlewski <john_podlewski@xxxxxxxxx>]

Found ground wire INSIDE warm-up Reg., burnt through!
Will that cause all these issues?
Freq. valve is working but once warm stays at say 85 CO on plug and does not change keeps buzzing though.

--- On Thu, 3/12/09, David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From: David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] Re: IDLE ISSUES(FIXED)-No Acceleraration
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, March 12, 2009, 2:05 PM






I can't tell you where your vacuum leak is, I can only say from your description of the symptoms I am suspecting that you have one or more of them, they are cumulative, ie, they add up, not cancel out. I have seen leaks in odd places, from missing bolts to loose fittings to bolts that were too long and went into the plugs at the front end of the intake manifold. Some of the more common sources of leaks are:

An "O" ring that moved out-of-place as you install the intake manifold

A missing bolt because you broke one off holding the manifold to the head

Dry, hard, cracked vacuum lines

Improperly routed vacuum lines

Cut or missing "O" ring on the pipe under the mixture unit to the idle motor (or the brass retainer is loose, missing, or bent)

If the throttle valves are fully closed where is the air coming from to get the idle over 750? Is the idle motor system functioning?

To tell if the Lambda is functioning first you should hear the frequency valve buzz. To tell if it is working right you hook a Dwell meter up to the diagnostic plug and watch it vary up and down. If it doesn't move at all then it is stuck in "Open Loop".
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@yahoogroups .com, John Podlewski <john_podlewski@ ...> wrote:
>
> O.K Great advice but before I tear apart my newly power coated top-half.
> 
> I just went over a few things...
> I made sure all vacuum lines routed correctly, micro-switch is being tripped and working, the throttle linkage is not binding, vacuum solenoid is clicking when the switch is being tripped.
> Mixture is set to where it should be, I think? with the throttle screws set correctly. The three brass are all closed, and butterflies are closed.
> As for the vacuum leaks without pulling everything apart to see there is no way to tell HOWEVER it does appear tight because when I pull the CO plug the idle drops substantially, which I take to mean that is the big leak? and I was very, very careful and took my time putting it back together, I have done it, I can't tell how many times.
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