So I didn't take the intake manifold off to change the distributor cap. I didn't even remove the mixture control unit. I removed the 2 hex bolts that hold the mixture control unit to the intake and the 4 bolts on the rear of the intake so I could lift up the mixture control unit and reach the distributor cap. I did some rearranging of vacuum hoses to their proper configuration and normalized the idle for a little while, but after going for a drive it started to rev on its own to ~3000 rpm. I noticed that by disconnecting the idle speed motor or by pushing on it I could normalize the idle too. I think I might try to switch the idle speed motor for the one on my other car, and see if that corrects the problem If I remember correctly disconnecting the idle speed motor when the car is idling should cause the engine to stop right? Thanks all for your helpful suggestions Joe P. --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Toby Peterson" <Toby@...> wrote: > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpalatinus" <jpalatinus@> wrote: > > Joe - The first place that I would look is the white 9-pin bulkhead > connector that is located just below the blue connector behind the > coil cover. Several of the pins in that white connector are involved > in the idle speed circuit. If you have a bad connection there due to > contamination, corrosion, loose pins or sockets, etc., then the idle > speed circuit will become "wonky" as our British friends would say. > You would be well served to also check and verify all connections > along the way in the idle speed circuit. I assume that you have a > proper wiring diagram that you can use for electrical diagnostics. > Also, assuming (again) that you removed the intake manifold for all > of this major tune-up work, you will want to make sure that the > throttle quadrant rod and associated mechanisms are all correctly > situated and working smoothly. Make sure that the vacuum lines to > the vacuum solenoid are correctly positioned per the vacuum diagram. > That also makes a difference in timing and fuel control pressure at > certain temperatures. > > Toby Peterson VIN 2248 "Winged1" > DMC Northwest > DeLorean Parts Northwest > > > > > Anyway She used to idle right below 1000rpm. Now she runs fine, > but is idling so high (2500rpm) I thought something might be pulling > the throttle. (nothing is) I imagine that I disconnected some minute > hose or some wire that is of critical importance to keeping a low > idle. Any ideas on what I screwed up? Or better yet how to fix it? > ------------------------------------ To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnewsYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/