Re: [DML] CLUTCH BLEEDING

[mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>]

Group and Jake,
 
Jake, you were absolutily right about the clutch fork.  After realizing that the majority of that brake fluid went into the VOD, I decided to pull everything to clean it up.  I had checked the bleed screw and it was clear.  While I was in the valley, I tried to bleed it again, since it was so accessable.  To make a long story short, I discovered that on this particular slave cylinder, I had to turn the bleed screw almost half a turn, vice a quarter turn, to get it of bleed properly.  Once I had it bled, I buttoned everything up and checked out the clutch.  It works exactly as advertised in all gears, no grinding whatsoever.  Thanks for you help.
 
For John H. or anyone who has an idea, I was able to get the car out to the paved highway this morning and take it for that 5 mile spin that you previously recommended.  The car is bogging down at about 2500 rpm, but if you feed in the throttle slowly past this point, it will then "catch" and you can accelerate normally.  When you quickly back off the gas, after rapid acceleration, I was able to smell gas fumes.  There are no leaks in the fuel system so I think I may be smelling unburnt fuel from the tailpipe.  The tailpipe also has black soot in it, but was clean before I went out for the spin.  Got any ideas on this one?
 
Mike   TPS   1630
 


--- On Fri, 8/15/08, Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From: Jake Kamphoefner <jakekamp@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [DML] CLUTCH BLEEDING
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Friday, August 15, 2008, 1:55 PM






 
 
Mike,
 
Don't worry about the adjustable clutch linkage, you very likely won't need it at all with the new clutch line installed.
 
I've had the same problem with used slave cylinders and bleeding.  I think I used a small paper clip and dental pick to clean up the bleeder screw and it fixed it right up.  You might want to also clean up the bleeder screw hole on the cylinder while you've got it off.  It's a amazing that a little obstruction can make such a big difference.
 
Good luck,
 
Jake Kamphoefner
1063

----- Original Message ----
From: mike clemens <rmclemns@yahoo. com>
To: dmcnews@yahoogroups .com
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 5:16:18 PM
Subject: [DML] CLUTCH BLEEDING

History----- Josh's car is running fairly good, so I tackled the clutch. When first starting up, it shifts smoothly in all gears. After about 5 minutes, it wants to grind going into reverse. After it gets up to operating temperature, it wants to grind going into both reverse and 1st gear. Yes, I know about the adjustable clutch fork and that next on my agenda.

I have rebuilt the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. Both check 4.0 on the bench. I decided to replace the original plastic line that runs through the frame. I accomplished this and replaced it with metal line, so now it is all metal from the master to the slave.

Now here's what has me stuck. I cannot get the system to bleed correctly either by pumping the pedal or by using a hand vacuum pump. After two hours of pumping the pedal and vacuuming, all I got out was about a 1/4 cup of fluid. Here's the odd part, with the bleed screw open, when the pedal is pushed, the clutch fork moves almost full throw and almost no fluid comes out. I decided that maybe the bleed screw itself might be plugged, so I took it out and installed a good spare. The original was clean and open. I then went to reinstall the one I took out and by the time I had it reinstalled (maybe 3-4 minutes). I noticed fluid dripping from under the engine. It was brake fluid of course, so I checked the reservoir and I had lost 3/4 of the bottle out the bleed screw hole while I was doing my swap. This was either caused by gravity or a siphon effect.

My question is----why is the system not bleeding when the bleed screw is turned a 1/4 turn, yet, when I take it all the way out, it wants to pee everywhere?

Mike TPS 1630
 

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