Mike Thank you for your input. I will have to stay on my side though ;) I have spent a lot of time and effort trying to understand how this setup works. And I came to a similar conclusion on a few separate occasions. OK, I might be wrong... but I believe that the current setup is just wrong. From what I know the suspension should work nice and smooth with all the rubber bushings replaced with rigid material. The only exception are sway bars, torsion bars and reaction bars. They are designed to bend and twist. Every other component should work fine. Just imagine what would happen if the bushings were rigid in a DeLorean. The rear suspension would simply be locked in one position with no movement possible. The rear hub should not move in arcs! Right now as the suspension moves up and down the hub moves in two arcs - front to back and twist left to right. My design eliminates both arcs and makes the suspension work 'right'. It will move smoothly from top to bottom even with bushings made of metal - for testing of course. Before the car is put into service the bushing will be replaced with urethane. I understand why the TAB is supported on just one side and why it has that huge bushing... but this is not a proper way to design a suspension. This is why the TABs bend and break. There should be no twisting and bending forces at the TAB and the bushing should only be there to soften vibration coming from the wheels. We'll see what comes out of my new setup. I'm pretty confident that it will be far superior to the original setup. The whole feel and handling should greatly improve. I guess the time will tell ;) Tom Niemczewski vin 6149 (in Poland!) Google earth: 52°25'17.30"N 21° 1'58.00"E dmctom@xxxxxxxxx www.deloreana.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [DML] Lotus Esprit Rear Suspension - very long and boring ;) Tom - I don't think your analysis is correct. The rear hub is suppposed to travel in an arc perpendicular to the frame, just like the front hub. If it is not, there is something wrong. You have to consider the upper and lower links in your analysis, and they are not mentioned in your text. They define the shape of the arc. The purpose of the trailing arm is to limit front/rear motion of the hub - not provide the primary pivots for the suspension. You also have to consider how the front trailing arm and upper shock mounts work. They are both essentially point mounts, not axes like the upper and lower links on the rear or the lower control arm at the front. They are designed to allow more degrees of freedom to account for the bending forces you are identifying. What concerns me about people talking about fixing the free end of the trailing arm bolt is that you change that joint from a point to an axis. When you do that, you get the motion you describe at the hub - an arc parallel to the frame. The end of the trailing arm bolt is free to allow the trailing arm to twist slightly as the hub moves up and down. The shape of the trailing arm and the way it is mounted to the hub is the clue as to how the front mount works. That big, wide base pinned to the hub perpendicular to the arc in which the hub moves plus the single bolt at the front means that front joint can't be an axis. It has to allow the trailing arm to twist. The bushing there absorbs the parallel arc motion, keeping the upper and lower links (and the shock mount) in the proper paths of motion. Otherwise you put all of the twisting energy back into the upper and lower links, which are on axes. If I had about an hour with you, my bare Esprit Esprit frame and a torque wrench, this would become a lot more obvious. If you remove the shock and disconnect the TAB, the hub moves in an arc perpendicular to the frame. Next, reconnect the TAB and disconnect the upper and lower links at the hub and see how the trailing arm and hub are allowed to move - it's not an arc, it's a cone. The trailing arm bolts of the Esprit are not a failure point like they can be on the DeLorean. I think the differences in the way the shims are mounted is the main reason. If that joint is properly torqued (and stays that way), the shear stresses on the bolt are not as big as you might think - they are distributed into the bushing. Once that joint loosens (as in a shim falling out), then the bushing no longer works and the shear forces go into the bolt, causing the bending. -- Mike ------------------------------------ To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnewsYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/