RE: [DML] Frame Rust - accessing areas from beneath.

["Cameron, Peter" <cameron@xxxxxxx>]

Paul,

My solution to loose epoxy has been to get under the car every year or so, pry loose what I can (hefty dental tools seem like the best for this), then spray/saturate everything with the Mercruiser rust inhibitor. That stuff is tailored to hold off rust in the marine/salt water environment, penetrates well,... So far this seems to be working well. Not concours, I'm sure some of the purists shudder reading this, but it seems to do the job.

Pete Cameron
vin 3579


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx on behalf of sweetp01569
Sent: Tue 3/11/2008 11:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Frame Rust - accessing areas from beneath.
 
I have the typical epoxy flaking on corners of frame and surface 
rust formed.  I also have a more serious situation on the front end, 
where epoxy softened and lifted in areas due to brake fluid leaking 
for the previous owner. I'd like to get to this, but not sure how to 
remove the loose epoxy in hidden areas.  If I do the best I can with 
scrapers and screwdrivers, apply POR 15 and then paint, will it be 
good enough that some deep areas will not get prepared properly? I 
don't plan to lift or remove the car from the frame and want to do 
what I can from underneath when on jack stands.  I live in MA, but 
never take the car out in the rain or snow.  How critical is it that 
I repair the rust immediately, since it's not exposed to rain or 
snow?  Will general moisture in the air attack the rust that quickly?

Also, if I ask Rob Grady to do this job, does he have better access 
to the hidden areas, and is it very expensive for him to fix?

Thanks,

Paul 
Vin 10944



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