I've uploaded a pic of my melted headlight dash switch to #5939's photo album (and did some housecleaning while in there). Notice the two melted wires are Red/Orange and Black (the one with all the isulation burned off used to be Black). These are the lines for the internal illumination bulb. Conventional wisdom is that marker and tail light amperage melts the switch. While they can't be good for it, especially considering how cheaply made it is, my culprit was the internal illumination. Switch was getting twitchy, probably as it melted internally. At my last fuel stop on a nocturnal trip home from DC -- 7 hours of continual illumination -- it stopped moving altogether (couldn't turn the lights off). I fiddled with it and finally got it moving again, thus didn't think anything more until I was back on the road and flames emerged from the dash. Fire is bad even in a car made of metal. In a plastic car it can be downright catastrophic. Flames were extinguished with my freshly purchased Diet Coke, every wire to the switch was cut behind the console, I jumped the headlight relay back on, and drove the rest of the way home with hazard flashers from the rear. Page M:18:11 of the Workshop Manual is incomplete (it does not show either Red/Orange internal bulb power or the Red/Green line to the marker & tail lights) but it does correctly omit any sort of fuse BEFORE the dash switch. Were there no ground wire from the switch, that wouldn't be a problem. In our cases its an unprotected short waiting to happen. Compare the circuit to Page M:18:06. I suspect 7 hours of heat from the internal illumination bulb slowly softened and melted the plastic parts of my switch, eventually allowing metal pieces to come in contact with each other. That's when the real heat began. My ground wire was melted (off & on) all the way to a junction under the console. Wires adjacent to it were melted as well. I had no choice but to rewire the entire dash switch circuit, as well as repair other damage. I took the opportunity to add a relay for marker and tail lights (only trigger signals pass through my dash switch now). A/C panel illumination was moved to that relay as well (my panel comes on with exterior lights now). I have no rear window defroster switch (my T Panel plate is already melted and pieced back together) so that illumination line was omitted. I do carry a hand written schematic in my glovebox because even I need to be reminded exactly what's been done (I also carry xeroxes of Pages M:07:01-03, the wiring diagram in both normal and enlarged sizes, and a wiring diagram legend). The fire killed my Craig radio (the display was already dead, but it used to make noise), melted the mode switch vacuum connector and lines (yet the switch itself survived), and warped my dash vents slightly. Interestingly, the A/C panel escaped without a scratch -- perhaps they're tougher than I give them credit for being. Surely DMCH added a fuse somewhere in their redesigned headlight switch.... Bill Robertson #5939 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/