I just wanted to share with the group, my experience replacing the Delorean fuel filter, and the invaluable advice of David Teitelbaum, the man behind the curtain! The summary version of this experience, under the very helpful direction of David Teitelbaum, is: to avoid leaks when replacing your fuel filter canister, use some silicon sealant (I used Permatex RTV Silicon Sealant and Adhesive) and lightly coat both sides of the banjo bolt copper washers, reassemble the fuel filter fittings tightly, and wait at least 20 minutes before trying to start the car. Presto!, no leaks. Thanks David! If you are a novice like me and would like step by step direction, please read on (if this can all be posted by the moderator): First the preliminaries, I ordered the complete fuel pump from DMC Houston which comes with the replacement fuel line filter canister. I am a novice Delorean tinker person at best. To begin with, I disconnected the car battery. Next, I drained and cleaned out my fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump assembly and hoses with filter going into the fuel tank baffle assembly, and the external fuel pump boot and fuel hoses connecting to the fuel lines, without too much problem. Along the way, I also did a lot of frame rust treatment. Then, after putting about 7 gallons of fresh gasoline in the tank, I was down to the last part to replace, the vertically positioned fuel filter canister, which is about the size of a 16oz bean can, and located to the left (driver?s side) rear of the car in the area of the transmission. Couldn?t be that difficult, I thought, just a fuel filter. Because I had rebuilt the fuel pump system, I didn?t have to worry about the fuel filter holding gasoline under pressure, which is the normal case when just replacing the fuel filter in the pressurized system. I first removed the hose clamp and fuel line hose going into the bottom (input) fitting of the filter. Please note that my bottom fuel line had long since been modified to a rubber hose and clamp, because the bottom line should be a steel tube and not a rubber hose. It?s best to have a small bucket or something to catch the left over gasoline which might leak out of the bottom line/hose when it is removed. Then I removed the one accessible rusted bolt (soaked with penetrating oil) holding the fuel filter canister bracket. With the filter bracket loosened, I was able to gently tilt the vertical fuel filter canister to allow access to the top fuel line connection. Again with penetrating oil I was able to remove the rusted nut connecting the top fuel line to the fuel filter canister banjo bolt. I was then able to remove the fuel filter canister from the car. With additional penetrating oil, I removed the bottom elbow fitting, which in my case had the old rusted piece of the original steel fuel line to which the rubber hose attached, which I mentioned before (so I ordered and replaced the bottom fitting with one from John Hervey), and the top banjo bolt and hollow bolt fitting. Now I assembled these filter hose fittings onto the new fuel filter, to include the copper washers that fit on the top (between the hollow bolt) and bottom of the banjo bolt. I treated the holding bracket for rust, and replaced the old rusted bracket bolt with a shiny stainless steel one. I then tightened everything up, hooked up the battery, and tried to start the car. That?s when the problems began! Not only would the car not start up, but when I looked underneath the car in the direction of the fuel filter, I saw gasoline dripping all over the floor. Upon careful inspection, I saw that fuel was spraying out the top end of the filter banjo bolt. John Hervey?s bottom elbow fitting was holding fast with no leaks. So I removed the fuel filter assembly, this time the system was under pressure so I wore a respirator, goggles, and gloves. Gasoline blasted out of the bottom hose/line when I removed it. I removed the top fitting from the filter and inspected for dirt or whatever was making the filter leak. I reassembled and extra tightened everything again and hooked the filter back into the fuel system. The same thing happened, gasoline under high pressure was spraying out of the top of the filter between the top hollow bolt and banjo bolt. After three tries and a new set of copper washers with the same %@!@#$# top pressure leak, it was time to call Superman - David T. David told me to get some 320 grit sand paper and buff both ends of the banjo bolt, and then take some silicon sealant (I used Permatex RTV Silicon Sealant and Adhesive ) and lightly coat both sides of both copper washers and reassemble the fuel filter. He said to wait at least 20 minutes before trying to start the car. I followed his directions to the letter, then turned the key. No start the first few tries, but after the fuel system had pressurized (as David told me afterwards) the car started up! Success!! Just wanted to share this, if you plan on replacing your fuel filter soon. Mike #5781 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! 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