[DML] Re: removing catalytic converter

["javelin1973401" <javelin1973401@xxxxxxxxx>]

I Got it,
I've wanted an acetylene torch anyway, so I found one on craigslist
and picked it up.  It did wonders; the crossover hardware came right
off.  It'll be the first tool I go after when I encounter a stuck bolt
from now on.  Thank you for the suggestion Bill.

I pretty much proved that you can't take the cross over pipe and
converter out together, though it's apparent when you look at it, I
tried like hell anyway.  I ended up taking the exhaust manifold off,
then I could move the converter back in the engine bay enough to cut
it off the flange.  The crossover pipe then came right out.  I'll use
heat to get what's left of the converter off the crossover pipe, but
not laying on my back under the car.

I will indeed go back on with stainless hardware as Mr. Robertson
suggested.  I do NOT want to tackle old rusted exhaust bolts under
this car again!

Thank you all for you help.  I appreciate your responses.
Steven Clark


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@...> wrote:
>
> Tried posting a reply yesterday, but through the miracle of modern
> technology it seems to have gotten lost in the ether (either that, or
> the moderator thought it was lame...). Let's try again:
> 
> You probably need to use acetylene to heat up the nuts. Go after the
> ones holding the crossover pipe to the exhaust manifolds. A nut
> splitter might also work, but those are fairly beefy nuts to be
> cutting in two. After you free the crossover pipe do yourself a favor
> and reinstall it with stainless nuts. Stainless studs would be nice
> too *IF* you can turn the carbon ones out. If not, as long as they are
> still solid run you can run a die down the studs to freshen their
> threads. Stainless nuts will still turn OK off in the future, but I'd
> run a die backwards (finish end first) just to clean their threads out
> again. The crossover studs are M10x1.25, which is very easy to find in
> stainless.
> 
> Your exhaust manifold studs are another story. They most likely are
> welded into the heads by electrolysis. I wouldn't try to turn them or
> the nuts. BUT, this is a situation where a nut splitter works
> perfectly. The exhaust studs are very small (M7) and the nuts pop
> right in two (at least mine did on my other engine). Clean up the
> threads and reinstall stainless nuts and washers. Rob Grady once had a
> supply of stainless M7x1 hardware. If not, contact me off list and
> I'll rustle you up some.
> 
> While your crossover pipe is off, check out your ignition distributor,
> slave cylinder, etc from under the car. Uber easy access, eh? THAT'S
> why you want stainless hardware to facilitate future removal. Once you
> tune up the car from underneath you'll never try it from above again.
> 
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
> 
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Steven Clark <javelin1973401@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Everyone,
> > I'm the guy who's been having all the trouble with
> > running rich.  I think I have that fixed, or at least
> > close, with a new fuel distributor and wur, plus
> > following some other suggestions.  I'll send an update
> > as soon as I'm sure.  
> > 
> > I decided to pull the catalytic converter to inspect
> > it as a lot of fuel had gone through the exhaust
> > system and I though it may be damaged.  I'm sure it's
> > never been off before.  I removed the muffler no
> > problem, all four bolts broke when I tried to remove
> > them from the back of the cat, where it attaches to
> > the crossover pipe.  I didn't figure that would matter
> > too much, as I was pretty sure I'd have to go on with
> > a new cat anyway.  Now, I simply cannot get the
> > converter off the crossover pipe.  I've beat on it so
> > much I'm sure the cat is ruined now, so obviously no
> > turning back.  It has yet to budge a bit.  I guess
> > everything is just fused due to years of heat and
> > rust.  All the beating has me worried about all the
> > extra stress I'm putting on the exhaust system, and
> > it's getting me no where, so I need to change my
> > approach.
> > 
> > So what to do?  I could remove the axle and drill out
> > whichever studs I can get to, but it looks like I'll
> > only be able to get to one, maybe two with luck and
> > the right drill.  Perhaps I could remove the crossover
> > pipe and somehow take both out together, but I know
> > I'll snap all those bolts too, which will most likely
> > result in pulling the exhaust manifolds, and more
> > snapped bolts.  Any opinions?  Any other ideas? 
> > Thanks to everyone in advance.
> > Steven Clark 
> > 3316
> > 
> > 
> >        
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's
> updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> > http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
> >
>




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