[DML] Re: Sight glass coolant tank, etc

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Let me practice my civil deportment. I've been having an extremely
demanding/stressful/crappy week, and it's probably reflected in my
posts. Apologies.

I did not mean to check the coolant level hot. Just treat the
expansion tank like an old fashioned radiator. Periodically check it
cold and you'll be fine. I'd also advise against filling the expansion
tank all the way to the top. You're not going to hurt anything, but
you will waste antifreeze when the system spits out what it doesn't
want. Since the expansion tank is located higher than the water pump
you only need to see coolant in the filler hose.

Cooling system leaks are pretty easy to identify, even from the
passenger compartment. There's nothing that smells quite like antifreeze. 

Regarding steam from a hot radiator (someone else's post): a properly
functioning cooling system does not contain steam. The water pump
can't move vapor. It is possible to boil coolant, as we've all seen on
the side of the road, but remember that the antifreeze and pressure
combine to raise its boiling point to 260 degrees or so. Boiling a
properly functioning system indicates a massive failure. 

There are vented radiator caps that allow pressure to be released
before opening. 

Did anyone notice David advised (different message) to use "soft
water" for the cooling system? This is extremely important if you live
in an area with minerals in the tap water. One of my Lincolns
purchased up north needed a new water pump because the old one was
totally clogged with mineral deposits. Not only were they the color of
cement -- they were the consistency of cement. I had never encountered
anything like that. The stuff couldn't even be chipped out. The whole
water pump was filled, right up to the impeller blades. Even if you're
fortunate enough to live in an area with usable tap water, draw it
from a hot water faucet inside rather than the garden hose -- the
water heater will help catch any nastiness remaining.

Regarding the radiator bleed hose: Every time I've helped an owner
change a radiator or flush the cooling system that hose has needed to
be cracked. Self bleeding just doesn't seem to work. I rerouted mine
while simplifying the plumbing overall (4 pipe sections were jetisoned
for long rubber hose runs -- I don't like all those short hose pieces
and hose clamps). Of course without that piece of pipe the bleeder
hose had to go somewhere else. I decided to go up so that gravity
would bleed the radiator for me. I also noticed that my pipe had been
rubbing against the frame and damaged the epoxy -- another reason to
convert to rubber.

Regarding Delo modifications in general: The world is a big place.
Surely there is room for a mod or two. And let's not forget whose
names are on the titles of modified cars. Unless any of us are
co-owners or hold liens on them, we need to tread lightly. The lawful
owners are accountable to themselves (and perhaps a bank), not us. 

Another modification to keep the fires stoked: My water pump is held
on with stainless studs and nuts, not carbon bolts. I do not want to
risk snapping a bolt head off when the time comes to replace it. The
studs were LocTite'd into the block, but if they want to freeze there
from electrolysis that will be OK too. Should things go as planned,
they will never be removed (the stainless nuts will turn on them). I
made this same mod to my exhaust manifolds. One day I hope to convert
the valve covers and thermostat neck. Had my intake bolts been
straight up rather than angled I'd do them too. 7mm stainless used to
be available Fastenal but they don't list it anymore. Rob Grady had a
supply once.

One last mod, then I've got to go to bed: Look closely at the
head/side/tail light circuit on Page M:18:11 of the workshop manual --
Fuses 14 and 15 come AFTER the switch. Not only is the switch
unprotected, but it is passing full side/tail light amperage (there's
no relay for them). Bare minimum, I'd recommend inserting an inline
fuse before the switch. On my vehicle I also added a generic parts
house relay for the side/tail lights. This was done after my switch
caught fire....

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> wrote:
>
> I don't mean to "chastize" anyone. I only point out that there are
> alternatives. The stock cap does work and of course there can be no
> leaks. Heck, you can't have any leaks even with a sight glass! Next
> time the motor is hot, try removing the cap to "just check the level"!
> Even with the overflow/recovery bottle it is still advisable to remove
> the cap (only when cold) to make sure the header bottle is full. I do
> it once a wek when I check the oil and the tires.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 




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