[DML] Re: Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud - Update

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Patience does pay off. When you are faced with a broken stud you have
to figure that the gasket is damaged from the loss of clamping force.
You should remove the manifold and replace the gasket. The best part
of doing that is the chance to break more studs! Heat up the fasteners
with an oxy-acetalyne torch to cherry red and then remove, lessens the
cahnce of further breakage.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dadoc2791" <gekko@...> wrote:
>
> You may remember my post re: this topic.  
> 
> It was suggested to me (by Rob Grady) that all studs should be 
> replaced, but I am not in a position to do so at this time.
> 
> I purchased an easy-out kit with the reverse fluted drills, assorted 
> sized e-z outs, as well as the new stud, washer, nut and exhaust 
> gasket and set about trying to remove/replace the broken one.
> 
> While this particular stud (rear-most upper on the left) is 
> accessible with your hand without removing any other parts, I found 
> that to get a drill in there however, I had to remove the muffler.  
> Unfortunately, my right-angle pneumatic drill does not have a 
> reverse mode on it so using the reverse drill bits was out of the 
> question (snapped the smallest one off, wedging the electric drill 
> motor up in there).  I used regular (right handed) bits (in the 
> right-angle, high-speed, pneumatic drill head) and (as was suggested 
> by someone in replys - thanks) began with a very small bit, working 
> my way up to larger ones , trying the e-z outs as I went along.  
> Ended up with an SAE sized bit approximately 6mm (don't know the SAE 
> size), then grabbed the 7mm tap and screwed it into the new/old hole 
> to create/clean out the threads.  That being done, I screwed in the 
> new stud and voilla!  All this was done without removing the 
> manifold.  In fact, the manifold gave me a bit of a visual guide to 
> be sure I was remaining centered on the stud while drilling.
> 
> All in all, not a pleasant job, laying on the concrete floor of the 
> shop, working above my head with the tools for a couple of hours, 
> but a successful outcome.  
> 
> For others, my best suggestion for this job would be a) patience! b) 
> use the right tools - don't try shortcuts c) Patience! and d) Have a 
> shop do it.
> 
> Craig Werner
> 07181
>




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