I understand your plan better now but I disagree with some of it. I agree that you should replace the condenser hose. Once you remove it you will be able to tell how contaminated your system is. I also agree that you should replace the accumulator. Your system does not have an expansion valve. It uses an "Orifice Tube" unless it has been modified from stock. If the system is contaminated you should replace it. I still disagree with replacing the compressor. The oil should be removed and replaced but if it is working (and you say it is) and not making bad noises, it is probably fine. If you are staying with R-12 you probably do not need to change any of the other hoses. Pressure test the system and when you refill add leak dye. If you really want to get the most out of the system use coil cleaner on the evap and cond coil on the outside fins and tubing. It is taking a big chance using parts tht are not "right" for the car. Just because a compressor may look like it is correct on the outside, inside it can be very different. At least the compressor that is on the car now is correct. You say it is working so if the only reason you are changing it is because you can get another one cheap, but has to be modified, I fail to see the logic. If you do not have the proper tools, a vacuum pump, gauges, tools, etc, you should not be messing with the refrigerent. Do the mechanical work and then take it to a shop for the testing, vacuuming, and charging. A proper vacuum pump that can get into the micron range is expensive but you cannot do good work without it. An A/C system should only be "flushed" if it is contaminated. Usually done with R-11 or nitrogen. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@...> wrote: > > Thanks David and all. > > > > I got my A/C working after the car sat basically abandoned for 12 years. > I've been running freeze12 in my car for the last year or so, but it has > a slow leak. I've found that my condenser hose has been spliced, cut, a > short piece of rigid pipe installed and two hose clamps to reseal it. I > can tell from UV dye that I'm leaking a little there, and I may also be > losing some through the hoses themselves as it turns out freeze12 is > mostly 134a blended with smaller amounts of other gasses. I understand > that 134a will slowly weep out through the older, non barrier type hoses > as well. Given the fact that some of the gasses may weep, but not all, > I realize that any time I add another can of freeze12 (twice a year it > looks like) I'm possibly changing the blend of gasses, their expansion > rates, properities, etc. plus I'm just plain leaking a little. Overall > it's not an acceptable situation. > > > > I plan to replace the defective hose, HP hub, my expansion valve and my > accumulator in coming weeks, and while I was at it I've considered going > ahead and swapping the compressor as I had a lead on a new one for about > $40 (one time deal guys, sorry), a fantastic deal made somewhat less > attractive by the unit having the wrong pulley and back. Right now my > unit works fine, but if I'm going to vacuum and refill it, this time > with my stash of R12, a fresh compressor wouldn't hurt, especially for > $40 and some labor. [moderator snip] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:dmcnews-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/