Tell you if you ask. wrote: > A fellow owner posted a picture of a nice hole blown out of the side > of his 5-speed transmission casing. The nut backed off the secondary > shaft and bored a hole in the casing...or out of it I should say. > Here're before and after photos of my gearbox casing when I bought my #1458 in 2001 with 2353 miles on it http://www.delorean.co.uk/DCP02269.JPG http://www.delorean.co.uk/DCP02277.JPG I had a little plug machined up and welded in place, plus all the cracks ground out and re-welded. A replacement nut was fitted and my car now has over 18000 miles and still gong strong. > 1. Does this happen often? > Regularly, but on a small percentage of UN1 type transmissions. The Alpine boys are certainly no strangers to it and our gearbox guy has several written-off tranmissions with holes busted in the ends. > 2. Has it been happening more frequently? (i.e. as our cars age) > Probably but average mileage of a DeLorean is considerably lower than most of ther UN1 equipped cars, and it still only affects a small percentage of cars. I've encountered two actually busted casings, including my own, and one that was caught and re-tightened before it got that far. I know Dave Swingle has seen more - he original diagnosed the problem with my car. > > 3. Are there any symptoms that may alert you to this problem? > Not being able to shift into 5th, or consistent crunching when doing so. > > 4. Are there any preventative measures that you can take that don't > require splitting the transmission casing? > No. > > > How do you overcome the angle of the engine if the car is on a lift? > Even a transmission jack won't angle the transmission right if the > engine is at such a severe up-angle. > How can your mileage tell you if your clutch is on the way out? Surely you should worry about it if/when it starts to judder or slip? Before that, don't worry about it. These clutches have been known to last beyond 200,000 miles if the car's not driven hard. To answer your question though, just rock the engine forward and wedge it however you see fit. And get yourself four LONG M10 bolts. Thread them through the bellhousing and into the engine first, then alignment almost happens on its own - just a bit of a wiggle and making sure that the gap top and bottom are roughly the same. I'm stuck with using ramps and have done this job several times now. The toughest part is simply getting the transmission back up into the "hole". Do the same job with an auto when on ramps, and suddenly the 5-speed is easy peasy :-) Martin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/