It probably wouldn't hurt just to change the radiator. I've heard of a couple of cars with mysterious run-hot problems where the original radiator was just partially plugged inside from years of not being flushed. No leaks, no other problems, just plugged. Another thing to try first would be to hit it with a really strong garden hose, from both directions. I've seen them full of leaves and road crud that really cuts down the airflow. The stock radiator is VERY dense and and plugs with road dirt easily. The aftermarket radiators are not as dense with respect to the fins, which is why they need to have more rows. (Compare an OEM radiator to the common aftermarket one some time). Other than the plastic tanks the OEM radiator is a work of art. Dave S --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "sweitzel_2000" <sweitzel@...> wrote: > > This weekend, I took 3231 on a reasonably long trip out of the Bay > Area to Gold Country to visit my in-laws in the hills north of Nevada > City, CA. Aside from having an absolute blast driving the winding > mountain roads, something cropped up that I thought I might ask the > group. Now, the Sacramento valley is notoriously hot this time of year > and this weekend was no different. Now my cooling system has been > flawless for the time I've owned my car. Two years ago, it got new > hoses, new otterstat, new thermostat, John H's auto air bleeder tube, > and a stainless header bottle. I've never experienced an overheat > thusfar. When I drive the car in normal weather, the needle usually > fluxuates between just above the first white line and right below the > 220 line when the fans come on. With the AC on (most often outside > temperatures above 78 degrees), the needle typically stays just below > the 220 mark. > > This weekend was a little concerning. Once I hit highway 80 and the > outside temperature was 100 degrees, I found that with my AC on and > cruising at roughly 70 miles per hour, my temperature began to creep > higher than normal. First it was right on the 220 line, then as I > began to climb the hills outside of Roseville, the needle crept a > third of the way to the red line. Fearing potential problems, I kicked > off my AC and the needle stayed slightly over 220, but didn't get any > higher even with heavy hill climbing. I stopped in Auburn and checked > to verify that both of my fans were running and they were. Once I > passed through Auburn and the outside temperature began to fall, my > coolant temp came down to it's normal spot slightly below 220. > > Coming back today was much easier. It was still just as hot out, but a > third of the trip is all downhill. I found today that cruising on the > flatlands at 70ish and AC on the needle would hover just a sliver > above the 220 mark. If I slowed to 55mph after about 5 minutes the > needle would drop directly on the 220 mark. > > So here's my question? Was I up against major engine problems with my > cruising temp slightly above the 220 mark? Do you think my cooling > system is functioning correctly? I do still have an original OEM > radiator with 10600 original miles on it. > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/