Re: [DML] Fuel Pump Madness

[Warren Wallingford <warren@xxxxxxxxxx>]

It's an article of faith around here that when there is no "priming" 
sound, we change the RPM relay.  So I'm suspicious of that relay you got 
locally.  [Ours are $39.95].  Does the car not start at all if it 
doesn't prime?  Will it always start with the RPM relay bypassed?  Both 
of these conditions point to the relay.  The only other thing is the 
impulse signal that triggers the SCR interlock inside the relay.  If 
there is something interrupting that or referencing it wrong, maybe, it 
might keep the relay from energizing.  That should show up in other 
places also.  Is the tach erratic?  Does the idle fluctuate?
I still bet it's the relay.
Warren at DMC


Todd Nelson wrote:
> List:
> 
> I think I've done all I can do with this one, so I'm going to open it up to you all.  After taking the car out of storage for the winter I noticed that when I turned the key to the ON position the fuel pump didn't do its regular 2-3 second prime then shut off.  Hmm I said and continued to flick the key from ACC to ON. Finally the pump did its deal and the car started fine.  I shrugged it off as some corroded contacts and went on my merry way, only to find that the problem was back when I tried to restart again.  The same "solution" of flicking the key seemed to work.  I have been told that it may be dirty contacts on the ignition switch, but I don't think this is it since the main relay for the ON position always works, and everything else that is supposed to come on when in the ON position (dash lights, engine electrical components, etc) all work fine.  I first suspected the RPM relay, so I opened it up, cleaned the contacts on the relay and the same problem continued.  A
ft!
>  er A LOT of testing I came to the conclusion that the RPM relay was dead, I've heard they are prone to failure and I had an original one, so it all added up.  $57 later at my local foreign parts shop and my troubles continue! 





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