The spliced lines are quite nice for ease of install. Andy is right that the hardest part is getting the low pressure line through the frame by the gas tank (which really wasn't that hard). It helped having Andy assist me, in that I could bend down the frame slightly (not a permenent bend, just a flex) and guide the end over the tank plate nuts while Andy actually pushed it through. It can also be difficult to separate the nuts and the lines. You need to spend $75 on a 32mm, 27mm, and 22mm wrench. 19mm is also necessary but I already had one of those. There is not much room to work the wrenches but it is possible (hey, they got them on there didn't they?). On the first car I did a few years ago, I could not separate the high pressure line from the evaporator. I got the nuts apart, but the lines would not disconnect. With more time they probably could have come apart, but I didn't have any then. My car which I'm in progress with was no problem. If your doing all this, replace the accumulator and orifice tube as well (unless you did that with your original conversion). Other misc. notes.... Be sure to keep the main high pressure line away from the steering shaft. Many owners have had sudden AC failure when this hose was warn through by the shaft. Also, John Hervey has not been as responsive as he has been in the past. When I made my original order almost everything came as it should. I emailed him many general questions about the parts and two that were missing, no responce. I called him a few times then eventually got through to him to get one of the parts that didn't arrive, but I still dont have the other one yet. When I arrive in Chicago, every component in my A/C system will be brand new except for the evaporator, which I removed and throughly cleaned. Jim Reeve MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club DMC6960 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@...> wrote: > > I had my R134A recharged last summer, and the AC felt nice and cold at > that time This year, I really don't feel any cold air coming through > and the compressor just turns on and off for about a second every 5 > seconds or so. I suspect my charge is gone. I read that older R-12 > rubber tubing (I suspect those that run under my car are original) > will actually let the R134A pass through the molecules of rubber, > resulting in a slow leak over the winter. Is this true? If so, is it > worth investing in Special T's spliced tubing (I don't have time or > patience to lift the car body to replace with whole sections) and > replacing the long runs under the car? Can I just replace them easily > myself, or do I need an AC shop to evacuate any remaining R134A for > safety/environmental reasons - or is there not enought to worry about > if I open and replace the tubing before I bring to an AC shop to > recharge? Any advice on this subject is appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Paul > Vin 10944 > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/