[DML] Sound Deadening Suggestions for the Delorean

["birdwell77095" <birdwells@xxxxxxx>]

Brandon,
I too want to install some sound deadning material in my Delorean. 
I've collected some previous DML submissions on such material. 
Here's what I have:

7449 From: Gary Hull <time@xxxx> 
Date: Sun Mar 5, 2000 0:57am
Subject: [DML] Re: Back Deck Material

<snip> I noticed that the black material that is on top of the foam 
under the carpet on the rear deck is cracked and missing. I would 
like to replace it </snip>

The DeLorean version of this material may have other properties like 
fire retardancy, but I'm sure that it is primarily a sound deadener. 
I purchased Dynamat to replace mine. It's self-stick so it's simple 
to install.

Dynamat comes in multiple grades, but a Audio-Etcetera has 
the "Super" version available on special, online, for under $20 for 
a 17.3" x 33.5" .060" Gauge sheet. That should be just right for the 
center portion. You might want to get two and do the side covers, or 
get the 12 sq ft version and go wild with the back shelf and 
vertical partition.

See http://www.audio-etcetera.com/audio-etc/dyn-0400.html


R. Gary Hull
Vice President
Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club
http://IN2TIME.com
http://PNDC.org


13496 From: DMC Joe <dmcjoe@xxxx> 
Date: Wed Dec 13, 2000 8:51pm
Subject: Re: [DML] New Subject

Don,

Standard automotive sound proofing procedures also apply to the 
DeLorean. The weakest acoustical section of the DeLorean are the 
driver and passenger floor board area. Any application of sound 
conditioning materiel in this area will improve sound transmission 
through these thin fiberglass sections. I highly recommend Dynamat 
from Crutchfield, a product that is easy to install and provides as 
much as 3 dB or more noise reduction. This product also works well 
in the door roof sections above the headliners.

"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!

13561 From: jtrealty@xxxx <jtrealty@xxxx> 
Date: Sun Dec 17, 2000 4:24pm
Subject: Re: Re Road Noises

A good source for lead is a vendor who sells lead for radiation 
shielding. When I had my hollow metal company we had from time to 
time to supply doors and frames with lead sheeting installed for 
radiation shielding for doctor's offices. We also used it for sound 
deadening. One of the vendors was called Radiation Shielding and 
they were in New  Jersey but I don't remember the city. We bought it 
in sheets 36" wide rolled up about 10' long and a roll was HEAVY. 
Handling it is not dangerous as long as you don't grind or sand it. 
You can't breath in shavings or slivers. Use gloves and don't eat 
near it or smoke. Try Eastwoodcompany.com and look at Dynamat for 
sound, it isn't as heavy 
and is easy to install.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxx> wrote:
> Several asked me for the source for that lead sound deadening 
material. I am sorry, but it was several years ago and I just have 
no records and no ideas where to even look.
_____________________________________________________________________
___

Message: 8 
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 18:35:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Boo who? <liljon_2001@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...


There are alternatives. I wouldn't recommend Ice Guard. It is a 
roofing material and it has a grainy side. I have heard of people 
using it but I wouldn't recommend it. The one "legit" alternative is 
Be-Quiet

http://www.b-quiet.com/index.html

I used it in my Toyota pick-up doors around new 6 1/2 speakers. 
Works well but it will add a little weight to the door. Don't THINK 
it will pose any problems with your D.

Hope that is helpful Pat.

Message: 4 
Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 19:13:25 -0000
From: "Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: So let's quiet this baby down...

Another cost effective route is to get to Lowe's Home Improvement to
the roofing section and get a few rolls of Peel 'n Seal. It's almost
identical to dynamat original, but without the brand. It isn't as
thick as dynamat extreme. It's aluminum backed rubbery stuff, and it
is adhesive. Priced at $12 for 12 square feet, you can afford to
double or triple it up before you begin to approach the price of an
equivalent amount of dynamat. 

I've used it not on my DeLorean yet, but my other car and it works
great even after 2 or 3 years inside of doors, on the floorboard, 
etc. 

Matt
#1604 
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Patrick Conlon <PRC1216@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> Personally I think spraying plain rubber undercoating on the floor
under the
> carpet would have the same effect. Then put the carpets back in 
once it
> dries. I don't plan on doing this as I have other projects my money
will be
> going towards, but the rubber undercoating should help somewhat if
someone
> wanted to go the cost effective route.
> 
> -Patrick C.
> 1880

Message: 3 
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2005 17:32:15 -0000
From: "Marty Galbreath" <marty@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Amplifiers.


I spent a great deal of effort and money attempting to improve the 
acoustic environment of my Delorean. This being my second D 
restoration, I recalled how noisy the first car was and was 
determined to improve that for this one. I completely removed the 
interior and installed two layers of Dynamat extreme to all of the 
fiberglass surfaces. A layer of TACMAT was installed over that on 
the rear firewall and below the parcel shelf. Above that a layer of 
Dynamat Dynaliner closed cell foam. In the area behind the door 
headliners, I used the Xtreme and a layer of the Dynaliner foam. 
Finally, I fabricated a new rear wall from 3/4 MDF and put my rear 
speakers, 7" Polk db component models, and my amp, a Soundstream 245 
amp there. The amp has 25 watts RMS x 4 channels and 100 watts RMS x 


Marty Galbreath
#3765

Message: 17 
Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 20:50:29 -0000
From: "Jim Reeve" <dmc6960@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Headliner work - opportunities while there?

I have placed sound deadening mat material in many places on the car.
The fiberglass roof however I opted not to due because of the already
low profile of the roof. The added thickness may make it more
difficult to attach the headliner peices to the roof and physicaly
lower it slightly. The open area inside the doors however are an
ideal spot. The thin stainless steel sheet there will also transfer
much more noise than the fiberglass peices will (the stainless t-
panel
already has a lot of foam underneith of it which does cut down on
noise transfer) so if any place I'd say the top door skin is the 
place
to do it.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "gzapf" <x86Daddy@xxxx> wrote:
> I'm preparing to redo my headliners. There's a lot of great
> documentation out there, so I feel pretty comfortable about it. 
> However, While I have the headliners off, I was wondering what
> hard-to-do-otherwise activities I can take care of?
> 
> So far, I'm aware of the following:
> -Check water leak points as described in service bulletin ST-33-
12/81
> -Wiring for door launchers
> -Sound deadening mat applications? (has anyone done this?)
> 
> I'd like to hear anyone else's suggestions!
> 
> Thanks,
> --Greg
> #2894












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