My car is having the same problem more or less cold and hot. The usual problem is the engine fires up and immediately dies. It usually takes three or four cranks before it stays running. The idling then dieing are a new symptom. I took my CPR apart and noticed that the wire that attaches to the bolt in the center was touching the case. It looked like it has shorted out (corrosion/burn marks) but I am not sure. Also the plug socket looks very corroded and possible shorted. From looking at the schematic it seems that the electronics inside the CPR are grounded outside of the device. Am I correct in assuming that if any of the internal electrical contacts are touching the case the CPR will not function? I cleaned the screen, re adjusted the center contact so that it does not touch the case, and put it all back together. Once my battery is charged I will hook everything back up. Keep the suggestion coming!! Thanks! Nathan 2277 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Christopher Mack <christopher_mack@xxxx> wrote: > > Nathan, > > I am having a similar problem with my DL. The problem > would be where the idle gets low when the car is cold > and the car will not restart. I had the problem fixed > but now my car is runing too rich, sounds like my > car's engine needs an air/fuel mixture adjustment. > For the control pressure regulator I just fixed one on > a friends car by taking it apart and cleaning the > screen out with brake cleaner and checking all the > electrical components too before reinstalling it. His > car accelerates fine now instead of coughing when > trying to accelerate. Does your car have the same > problem whne hot and cold?? let me know > > Thanks > > Chris > > --- valleyrat12 <valleyrat12@xxxx> wrote: > > > Hello all, > > > > My car is manifesting a new problem. The car will > > start then idle at > > 1000 rpm for about 10-15 seconds then die. If i > > push on the > > accellerator or turn the spindle the engine will > > abruptly die. If the > > car manages to stay running for about thirty seconds > > I can turn the > > spindle and the engine will begin to respond, first > > coughing and > > bogging down, then eventually respond like normal. > > (once warm??) > > > > What the heck is this? I searched the archives and > > the closest thing I > > can come to is that it may be related to the control > > preassure > > regulator. I removed the fuel line going from the > > center of the fuel > > dist. to the CPR and the screen had a some dirt > > around the edges. I > > removed it, still has this problem. I drained my > > battery twice so far > > trying to solve this! > > > > Since I am relatively new to the Delorean I must > > also ask this: When > > the key is turned to the "on" position I hear a > > click and a buzz (I > > think the frequency valve) then the buzzing stops > > and will not start > > again until I turn the crank. I removed the cover > > from the RPM relay > > and confirmed that the click is from that relay. Is > > this a normal > > condition? Also when the engine is running the sound > > of the frequeency > > valve changes and immediately causes the idle to > > fluctuate up and down > > (300 RPM or so) with the change in sound. Normal, > > or $&#@*& up? > > > > Alot, I know but this newby needs the help! Thanks! > > > > Nathan > > 2277 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/