Andy, It sure looks like perhaps someone's been there ahead of you and done some not so good work. (Just a guess.) NOTE TO LIST: I know the best option is a new head, I really do! But, I'm going to offer Andy some ideas for "agricultural" repairs that might possibly get him out of the woods without that expense, so please don't come at me with pitch forks and torches! ;) Andy, probably nobody can give you an authoritative answer based on your photo and description. Dealing with a case of corrosion such as this is probably as much art as it is science, and seeing the parts up close would possibly result in some better ideas on how to handle it. The best fix of course is to replace that head, but here are some "take your chances" ideas that fall short of that option. Scenario 1: (the best case scenario) Which is that you can do almost nothing to it, put it all back together and not have any problems with it: On the upper left hole, how good are the threads that start about 1/8 deep? Are they nice and clean, or are they also corroded? Also, it is hard to tell from your photo, but is that a crack growing out of that same hole at about the 9 o'clock position? If there is no crack and the threads are in really good shape beginning about 1/8" below the surface you might get away with putting a new stainless stud in there with ample (lots) of anti-seize to help prevent further corrosion in that spot. If you follow this course of action just be sure to fully seat that stud to take maximum advantage of the remaining threads, and be sure not to over-torque the nut. (Use a new nut, of course!) On the dimpled metal by the lower left hole, since it wasn't leaking before and since the head seems flat right arount the port, it might seal again. Scenario 2. Head cracked by the upper left hole. The prognosis here is not as good as in the first scenario, but you may be able to use some JB Weld to strengthen the area around that hole and get away with slapping it back together as above and not have any more trouble with it - or not - nobody can say for sure. If you try either of the above fixes, you are, of course, taking a chance that after you put it back together it will leak and you can't seal it and you start speaking all kinds of French words and spending all kinds of American dollars to replace the head anyway. Or you might get lucky and have no problems except maybe some sleepless nights as you stare at the ceiling wondering if it will hold. The best fix would be to replace the head of course. Perhaps a good automotive machine shop could weld that area and re-drill/tap the stud hole. I don't just don't know waht an experienced shop could/would do with your problem. I think I would try to get the best close up of that are you can and take that picture to a local auto machine shop or two to see what they say about it. Good luck. Joe Kuchan. >From: Soma576@xxxxxxx >Subject: [DML] exhaust problem > >I have my engine out and I am doing some exhaust work on it. I have >uploaded a file to the yahoogroups photo section under the folder '11596'for you to view. You can see that this port has me worried. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/