OK - we know it's not your coil or plugs. That leaves leads, cap and rotor. Since the cap and rotor are a pain to get to, we'll start with the leads. Have you tried swapping a lead from a firing cylinder to one that doesn't fire? If the firing cylinder keeps running, it's not the lead and you have to inspect the cap and rotor. The rotor and cap should have a small gap between the rotor tip and the electrode on the cap. The spark jumps here first before it arcs across the plug gap. If the gap is too wide or the electrodes are covered with plastic flash or carbon or something inside the cap, the plug won't fire. -- Mike -------------- Original message from "odell_andy" <odell_andy@xxxxxxxxxxx>: -------------- > thanks for your help mike. > i imported the car to the uk, and just got it road legal. i had the > whole fuel system replaced, which made the car run, and today i tried > to repair the last problem, the tachometer (so i thought.) i tried to > use a dwell meter & timing light to read the rpm, i dont know much > about it, but i thought if the meter could read the rpm, the gauge > would be faulty, and if the meter couldnt, it would be the sender. but > the inductive pickup couldnt get a signal. checking the plugs > (earthing on the block) revealed cylinders 1,2 & 3 have no spark. 4 5 > & 6 have MASSIVE sparks. > i had read on the forum that people had thought the car was slow when > they first drove it, so i thought nothing was wrong! > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/