RE: [DML] COLD START VALVE CIRCUIT

[Todd Nelson <tan5732@xxxxxxx>]

Tom,

There is supposed to be a hot wire at the TTS to heat up a bi-metallic arm,
which in turn will open the ground circuit if you are cranking excessively
so you don't flood your engine.  The blue/black wire is the one that you are
supposed to be grounding, since it works when you do that it is probably
your TTS that is at fault.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf
Of Tom Tait
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2005 11:27 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] COLD START VALVE CIRCUIT


<<Problem, the cold start valve does not open while cranking>>


Here's the latest.  My +12 is fine, it looks to be the ground portion of the
circuit.  When I Jumper out the temp sensor (which seems fine - has
continuity) the valve still does not open, but when I jump the blue black
wire at the temp sensor connector to ground the valve works normally.

I'm confused a bit, why does white/Red run to the thermotime switch anyway?
The switch has its own ground through the waterpump to the engine.  When
cold this ground should complete the circuit for the cold start valve.  Why
is White/red even here?

Further, the diagram indicates that white/red and blue/black run to the cold
start valve first, then continue on over to the thermotime switch.  I
understand that the white/red from the starter must reach a splice point
where is splits to both the valve and the switch (though as per above I have
no idea why it goes to the switch) and that Blue black similarly splits to
both devices before it runs back to ground.  If I'm going to find bad
wiring, these splice points seem to be key, but they are not at the valve
per se as indicated, where are they?

I just know I've missed some crucial point here, and I'm due for a
school'in. This should be simple, and probably is - but I'm not getting
something...

Tom





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