Shain, I am very familiar with idle stall in which the voltage drops down due to the fans coming on and the electrical ECU's and car think they have been turned off. Well, I appreciate what your doing but if the problem is masked then it may never be fixed. You may very well have a bad battery, Bad grounds loose connections and just improper maintenance causing the problem. I hear about spikes as others and the damage they can do but how many times have ECU's been replaced or any other critical component that have be contributed to them. As a builder of alternators, I have had 3 come back all year and 2 were from bearings and 1 was a blown regulator. That's 3 out of several 100 in the field and only 3 came back all year. I think spikes are talked about a lot but very, very rarely do they do any damage to anything in the car. I also have some spike protection built into the Fan Fix. If you want to get rid of the problem all together, then put the new HE fans on and problem is solved 100% and no Fan fix from anyone is needed. John Hervey -----Original Message----- From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Shain Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 10:34 PM To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller Idle Stall [Moderator Note: DMLers are always welcome to disagree with each other as long as you keep it polite. Please be careful about escalating this discussion. - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week] John, I was reply to a post about the topic, which is also in a the subject line of this discussion, the fan unit on ebay. I am not trying to bash your unit, unlike some replies I have received. I was simply commenting on the ebay units design of an unknown builder. As well as suggesting a way to improve on your design, if I saw a particular flaw. What we talk about on the phone, is off this discussion, thank you. Current ranging from around 15 amps initial, and 8 amp continuous load, is quite capable of being sustained on stock wiring. After all the engineers of the car were not totally off topic, and knew what the current ratings of the wires in the car could handle. The main problem with the car has never been if the fans come on, the simple relay setup in the car allowed for this. It's the initial pull of current, in my case 15 amps instantaneous, or in your module 30 amps instantaneous. It can damage electrical components, alternators, batteries and possible stall the car out on warm days with the a/c running. A large amount of owners believe that the fan just stop working, this is not the case. My unit attempts to bring the load on the car up and down at a gradual pace, similar to going from a temperature from 100 degrees, to 90, to 80.... Similarly, backwards for initial startup. Yours goes from 70 to 100 degrees. I don't know about you but your body would like to acclimatize to a temperature slowly, then being shocked. This is the same for electrical systems. Please do not contribute anymore if it is going to be negative. I was only trying to inform a possible buyer of this ebay unit of a possible design flaw in the unit. Although I would like to see inside of one. A while ago I posted schematics for a free fan sequencer, and would like to see if it uses my design. Since I am the only one I know of that has contributed free information on how to build a fan module. -Shain [long quote trimmed by moderator] To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/