[DML] Re: Engine vacuum problems?

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Check a couple of more things. Make sure the air sensor plate is
centered and not touching the sides of the venturi. Check the rest
position that it is not too high or too low. If the air filter is old
or dirty replace it. Make sure the Frequency valve is buzzing and does
not cut in and out. It should buzz steadily. Check the engine vacuum.
It should be up around 18". If you have leaks you will never get the
mixture right. Be certain the air tube for the idle motor is properly
inserted and the "O" ring is sealing properly in the mixture unit. My
guess is your are set up too rich to compensate for a dead Lanbda
and/or vacuum leaks.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I don't understand this... maybe someone can help me out here. Before
> I begin, the ported switch lines are routed correctly, timing is on 13
> and both vac/mechanical advances in/on the distributor are verified to
> work. I have my vacuum supply line to ported switch disconnected at
> the source (left/drivers side rear intake), my car (cold) starts up
> great, and you can hit the road immediately with no engine/running
> problems or smoke. I plug the vacuum line in and upon cold start, the
> engine sputters and blows bluish/whitish smoke for a minute or 2.
> Hitting the road immediately results in misfiring under even light
> acceleration until warm, and once warm the engine still misfires under
> load or going straight down the road with 3/4 accelerator travel.
> Unplug this line and these problems do not exist; the engine runs
> flawlessly -this is how I've been running for the past few weeks.
> Unplugging the WUR and only running vac advance still makes the engine
>







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