Thank you all for your help and advice! Trouble? Yes, my car is very reliable for throwing me another problem or quirk now and then. But nah, it's still a great car; and I figure with all the parts I have replaced with new ones my car's gotta be done soon right?-It's almost brand new now! I removed the plate with the bulkhead connections again. The splice is a 1.0uf capacitor running from green wire of the larger white connector [#45 on David Delman's bulkhead connection diagram] to black wire in blue connector [#23]. #23 says it's a ground for the diagnostic plug, but I don't have the ground hooked up so 23 might not have any current at all unless it runs to a ground inside the car somehwere. Remove this capacitor? I have yet to look for more cut wires and do the voltage testing etc. My only problem is I don't have a diagnostic plug on my engine.....guess I should start looking for it. -----Dani B. #5003 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > You certainly have a lot of trouble with this car! I remember when you > first started posting, all the problems you had with the fuel system. > Anyway, if you get out your Workshop Manual you will find in the > Lambda section under the specs different things to do with the O2 > sensor wire (appling a voltage, grounding it, and leaving it loose), > and closing the WOT switch. You read the output with a dwell meter at > the diagnostic plug and you should get readings close to what is in > the manual. Keep in mind that you are reading an output directly from > the ECU, not what is going to the FV. You might have to check the > wiring from the ECU to the FV. A bad connection can cause the FV to > not function. The ECU also has 2 ground connections that run through > the bulkhead connectors by the ignition coil. You MUST have BOTH > grounds at the ECU plug for the ECU to function. One of these grounds > is the return path for the O2 sensor. If the ECU isn't properly > grounded it cannot read the O2 sensor with only 1 wire! It is not > normal for wires to be chopped up in there. This could be part of a > missing ground circuit which would make the ECU look bad. I would open > the plug up at the ECU and check out each wire all the way. In any > case you have to troubleshoot EVERYTHING before you condemn the ECU > unless you have a known good one to substitute. The Lambda ECU is not > a high failure item. I would suspect a wiring problem or a dead O2 > sensor first. Chances are that if the ECU can work by holding the WOT > switch the ECU is OK (the WOT switch and wiring too!). > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> wrote: > > I just got my current ECU from DMCH just a few months ago, I'm > > pretty sure it isn't defective?is there any way to test the > > frequency valve part of it? How do I test the O2 sensor? When I > > changed the plate that mounts all the connections and coil on the > > engine bay bulkhead, I noticed wires cut and spliced into different > > wires [behind the plate inside the pontoon]; I noticed in particular > > one of the wires had a capacitor spliced in, was this a recall or > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/