The cold start valve gets power from a terminal on the starter solenoid during cranking. It is possible there is a bad connection inside the solenoid for that terminal. The starter would still run fine but you won't get full voltage to the cold start valve. Put the meter on the terminal for the cold start valve on the starter solenoid and crank the motor. If you do not get full voltage (as compared to the terminal going to the starter motor from the solenoid) you need to replace the solenoid. You also need to check the gound connection for the cold start valve. It is possible that is not connected/dirty and with full voltage the valve still can't work. You have to check BOTH sides of a circuit. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Todd Nelson <tan5732@xxxx> wrote: > List: > > In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I think I may have found something and would like your opinion. I think my problem has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never actually fires. I have verified that the valve itself is operational by replacing it's power source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts just fine. So you are probably thinking that my thermal time switch is bad, I ruled that out by verifying that there is continuity between To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/