Today I took the car to my shop, barely made it; felt like driving with an elephant on the car. Symptoms: engine started and idled fine, but anything over 2500~3000RPM under load it would misfire and lack serious power-like you are towing a boat behind you. I ran a few simple tests: Hooked up timing light, made sure it was on 13 degrees. I continued to shine the light down on the pulley while pulling on the throttle, the timing advanced showing that at least the vacuum advance was working normally. Next I disconnected the vacuum line to the distributor to check the centrifugal advance. Instead of advancing, the timing was slowly retarding depending on the RPMs; 4000 and it would be down to about 7 degrees. This was the obvious problem, so I took out the distributor and opened it up. Found that the spring was going to the wrong weight and wasn't even installed on the pin on the weight. I installed the spring on the correct pin and weight, and made sure it wouldn't fall off. Installed the distributor, put the engine all back together and went for a test run. The power was back again with no popping and slight backfiring, and the idle was smooth. Thanks Jeff for your CO adjusting methods, I'm going to fine tune it tomorrow using them. Now all readjusted and fixed up, the car made it fine back to my apartment; idle condition or power hasn't deteriorated so I'm imagining everything is all fixed now. Again, the ultimate test is starting it after a night of sitting. What kind of engine damage could result after 3 years running it at around 40 degrees with no centrifugal advance? I'd like to thank everyone for their help on this issue -----Dani B. #5003 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx> wrote: > Glad I could help. > > Next the CO adjustment can be a bit tricky but here's how I was taught to do > it a few years ago. With the car running adjust the CO down till the car > almost dies. If it dies it's okay just turn the screw back up a pinch and > restart. Then slowly move up unitl you hear the Frequncey Valve chirp in a > very quick and steady pulse. Cover the hole and wait a few minutes whiloe > the car stabilizes. Continue to do so and the car's idle will hold at the > apropriate range and the car will run very smooth. > > I'd go ahead and double check all your vacuum lines just in case. I had a > car I worked on where the vacuum lines going into the Vacuum Solenoid were > reversed once they were switched it did wonders for the car. > > Hope this info continues to help you. > > You can safely adjust the CO to a richer mixture but remember if the system > is working properly the frequency valve will start to cut out the moment you > pass the "sweet spot" go down until it chirps constantly again and then just > a hare under that setting the car should run like a dream after that. > > Jeff in NC > > I had backfiring issues when I first got the car running again and it was > the CO. If it's too low it will backfire and appear sluggish. This is most > likely your problem. If you're having trouble with your O2 Sensor you can > unplug to "default enrich" your mixture via the Frequency Valve. This quick > fix has helped a few cars around here get back on the road. > > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx> > >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning) > >Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:20:23 -0000 > > > >Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing, > >must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it > >idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow > >morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back > >fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not > >nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas > >before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the > >advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check > >tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again! > >-----Dani B. #5003 > > > > > > > >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx> > >wrote: > > > I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced. It > >popped and > > > ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over > >to one > > > side of the alignment area. The distributor was off by one tooth > >where it > > > meets the camshaft. I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor > >by hand > > > (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be > >sure the > > > motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the > > > position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the > > > timing after the car was running. I had to move the distributor a few > > > millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 > > > degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out. > > > > > > Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate. > > You > > > can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store. Also when > > > aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the > >right of > > > the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the > >number 6 > > > cylinder. > > > > > > Jeff in NC > > > > > > P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is > >aligned > > > properly. CO balance is very inportant. You can smell the exhaust > >and tell > > > right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it. Also > > > gauge the heat with your hand. I don't personally know your mechanical > > > ability but that's a trick I use. An easier way to get proper CO if > >you > > > don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the > > > Frequency Valve. It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise > >if too > > > rich. play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both > >the engine > > > and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just > >below > > > the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from > > > richer to lean. The instant the valve comes on and remains constant > >once > > > the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole. The car will > >run > > > perfectly from that point out. > > > > > > Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case > >replace or > > > unplug. Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the > > > Frequency Valve buzzes to life. We used that solution on a couple > >cars here > > > in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream. > > > > > > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx> > > > >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning) > > > >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000 > > > > > > > >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some > > > >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise > > > >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle > > > >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention > > > >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will > > > >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping. > > > >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the > > > >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5 > > > >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't > > > >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a > > > >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and > > > >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it > > > >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock > > > >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is > > > >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start > > > >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there) > > > > > > > > > > > > > >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > >moderators@xxxx > > > >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com > > > >To search the archives or view files, log in at > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > >Yahoo! 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