Sounds like your Master Cylinder is shot. Inside the Master Cylinder it develops a wear pattern through the years. When you bleed the breaks you push the o-ring seals inside the master cylinder past the wear marks and they develop little cuts in them and then fail. When i bleed brakes i put a hunk of wood under the pedal so when you "pump them up" you wont push the master cylinder past the wear marks and damage it. Mark V On Jul 15, 2005, at 7:02 AM, sweetp01569 wrote: > After all the pats on the back I gave myself for doing the brakes, > they started failing on my ride home yesterday! I was coming to a > stop, pressing the brake pedal, when the pedal lost pressure and > slowly lowered to the floor! I had to pump them quickly to build > up some pressure, and worked my way home that way, making sure I had > enough room in front of me. > > I immediately suspected that I didn't tighten a line fitting or > bleeder screw enough, but when I got home, I didn't notice any fluid > leaking in the driveway. I haven't checked anything yet, and will > this weekend. I am hoping it is a simple answer. Could I hve a big > air pocket left in the system, is the brake cylinder failing? A > little puzzled, but hope to solve tomorrow. > > Paul > VIN 10944 > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@xxxx> > wrote: >> I wanted to thank those who gave me guidance on my recent brake > job >> I did myself. I replaced all the original calipers (and original >> brake shoes still on the car - 27,000 miles) with the loaded > cadmium >> coated rebuilds from SpecialT Auto (not plugging the vendor, as I >> also purchase from all of them, to share and support those who >> support our fine cars, but nice pieces, nonetheless!) >> >> I was only able to get the driver's side front and rear rotors off >> the car, even after tips on removing the rear spacer plates and >> exhaustive attempts with a rubber mallet, then a 2 x 4 and hammer > (I >> have a souvenir blood blister behind my middle fingernail from > that >> hammer - Ouch!) >> >> I was going to take them to a local shop for turning, but since I >> could only get two off, I kept them all on the car instead and >> sanded them with a rotary attachment on my drill with #80 > sandpaper, >> as suggested by David Teitelbaum (Thanks David, it worked like a >> charm to eliminate the glaze, and saves rotor material in the long >> run!). >> >> I bought stainless break lines, but had trouble freeing the old >> lines (was bending the frame mounts trying the free the nut, and > the >> rears seemed a little challenging to get my hands in there - I'll >> wait till someone else can put them in, perhaps during a visit to > PJ >> Grady's). >> >> After installing the new loaded calipers and bleeding the brakes, >> the car handles so much better! The brakes feel like new (No more >> squealing and shimmying (my passenger front caliper was never > fully >> releasing the rotor). >> >> Feels good to complete a job myself and bringing the Delorean to a >> condition closer to that when it was new. >> >> Thanks again everyone! >> >> Paul >> VIN 10944 > > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx > > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see > www.dmcnews.com > > To search the archives or view files, log in at > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/