Thanks all for the possible cures but to no avail. I checked and cleaned all of my grounds with contact cleaner. Took the dash out, cleaned all connections likewise; took the tach out and cleaned the tach connections under the nuts. Used my volt-ohmeter and checked continutity with all conections on the tach. Put it all together and checked ALL connections. Started the car up and put my service tach on and it read 775 rpm at idle. The car tach read 1200 +/- 100rpm. Reved it up to 2500 on the service tach and the car tach was reading 4000 +/- 200 rpm. I checked continuity from the coil to the tach connection in the dash. (.1 ohm) Checked tach lead to ground (25.5 ohms) Everything seems to be ok except for the wacky tach. Makes me wonder if this new one I bought and have been putting up with is just a POS. This car is in very good condition, all original, always maintained by me. I have the complete history. I drive 2k - 3k a year. Always garaged. When I heard others having problems with grounds and connections I checked everything and all mine look just like new. The only thing I've added is a CSS-100 cruise control. Oh, by the way, I was over talking to Ryan Wright a week or so ago and I recall someone talking about the front license plate. I have mine mounted just below the bumper ridge with a sst piano hinge so it allows air to flow into the radiator. Again, thanks all Vic 7012 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/