Thanks to Knut I was able to get new fixed glass installed in my drivers door this weekend. I was having trouble before installation getting the channel, the seal and the glass to go together prior to installation as a dry fit. Knut's suggestion fo the proper tools helped greatly. I wanted to share a few more tips and pass on the experience. In order to get the channel, glass and seal all assembled together Knut suggested a small jewelers screwdrive. What I came up with was a lovely set of tools for sculpting/modeling clay from the local art supply store. Flat blades, thin, triangular and curved - a lovely assortment for a few bucks. The one that worked out the best was a crescent shaped blade with a concave bend inward - kinda like a baby spoon that had most of it filed away on the sides leafing only a sliver at the center. I opted to install the channel onto the glass before putting the glass into the car. I first put silicon adhesive inside the rubber seal and laid that onto the glass. More silicon into the channel. Then starting at the rear of the glass I pushed down on the sides of the rubber seal forcing it slightly off the glass, but down into the channel. With all the silicon acting like a lubricant before it set it slid easily and with just slight compression the glass would fully reseat into the seal, with the seal now bottomed out in the channel. Working toward the front of the glass it was all together in less than two minutes, on the third try. Its not tough at all it just took a littel persistance and practice - things were more slippery with silicon in the equation. I taped it all up and let that cure overnight. The glass going into the door couldn't have been easier. I Rotated several of the metal clips 90 degrees so the glass could slip in easily. I installed the black adhesive to the inside of the door and then put the glass in place. The car was parked with heavy duty shelving about 3' away from the door, so I then used 3 bungee cords to hold the glass in rough position. Inside the car I engaged all the clips. I then out a pre cut spacer in between the bottom of the glass and the top of the door sill where the moving glass usually sits. at 6 7/16" it ensured that the glass was at exactly the same height within the door opening as the glass on the drivers side. I then was able to rivet the tabs on the bottom of the channel to the door, which told me the channel and the glass were now located exactly as the previous glass had been. >From outside the car I was still able to push the glass inward slightly to lay in a new bead to hold the rubber trim strip in place. I laid in the trim strip - taped it up so it couldn't shift - allowed the bungees to keep the whole assembly in tension and let it sit for 24 hours. The whole process of putting the glass in the car took about 20 minutes. 5 minutes of cleanup with a razorblade and it looks great. Thanks again to Knut for pointing me in the right direction. While I did also use a razorblade to take a hair off the outside lower edges of the rubber seal so it could dry fit into the channel, its clear that once the silicon was in place and helping things lube and slide that was not neccesary. Some may be able to point out som no-nos in this proceedure where I dodged fate doing something stupid, but my results are very good and the use of the modeling tools and the bungees may be new to the list, so I thought I'd share. Happy Motoring, Tom #10902 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/