And now for another oddball question - any reason NOT to bolt up a MANUAL flywheel and clutch assmbly and bellhousing, and start and run the engine without a transmission in place? (Other than another couple of hours of work!) This would seem to be a good way to make sure that the noise is NOT in the engine itself.... Dave S --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote: > Adding to my own thread - the trans is out (with no assistance other > than the jack). I did have to loosen the crossover bolts to let it to > move up about 1/4" but otherwise it was pretty straightforward. > > Now for the fun part - I can't see any evidence of anything wrong. So > it looks like I'll swap in another converter and see if that fixes it > (original problem was a disturbing noise). If nothing else I'll get > pretty good at R&Ring these things. > > The only thing I noticed was that when I pulled the converter out, > the pump shaft stuck to it. On the "donor" transmission (thanks Marty > L!) it came apart like I would expect it to. > > The oil that ran out of the "donor" looks perfectly clear, so I'm > going to use it as the replacement. > > Dave S > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote: > > This is an acedemic question at this point, but how do you turn the > > engine over to get to the converter bolts without removing the > > muffler (I have the muffler off so I could turn the engine over more > > quickly in quest of the mysterious noise). > > > > It also seems to me that it's prudent to get those two cooling > lines > > out of the way so the rear of the trans can drop. > > > > I generally chain the trans to the jack so it shouldn't fall, but > > your right, dropping the converter would sure ruin your day. I have > > the OEM converter clamp to install on it as soon as it's separated. > > > > Dave > > > > -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> > > wrote: > > > You do not have to touch the exhaust system. You WILL have to > pull > > the > > > starter and lift the engine to get to the cover on the bottom. > Drain > > > as much fluid out of the pan and the cooler as you can to try to > > keep > > > the mess to a minimum. Follow the Workshop Manual, it is pretty > > good. > > > Take the plug off the firewall and cut all the strap ties. You can > > > leave the shift computer and the switches and harness on and take > it > > > all out together. Be careful that the torque converter doesn't get > > > away from you. If it slips out of the bell housing as you take the > > > trans off it will unbalance and the trans could fall off the > jack. > > Bad > > > enough if the car is jacked up but working under a lift things can > > > fall further. Don't forget the dipstick tube and the vacuum line. > > You > > > should support the engine separately from below as you remove the > > > trans. It helps to let it pitch down in the front but you don't > want > > > it to go too far. > > > David Teitelbaum > > > vin 10757 > > > > > > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> > wrote: > > > > Anyone have any experience they care to share pulling an > > automatic > > > > trans and leaving the engine in the car? I've had it out of the > > car but > > > > at the time the engine came with it. > > > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/