Re: [DML] Re: Failed Check Valve Or Primary Pressure Regulator
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Re: [DML] Re: Failed Check Valve Or Primary Pressure Regulator



The whole pioint of the accumulator and the primary pressur regulator's 
function of keeping pressure in the system when at rest is to stop fuel 
vapourising in the injector lines. Once this happens you have to crank 
the vapour out of those lines. Running the fuel pump will get the vapour 
out of the supply an return lines in about 5 seconds but it'll do 
nothing to the vapour in the injector lines.

Jumping the cold start valve gives the engine something to run on for a 
few seconds, usually long enough to get rid of the vapour in the 
injector lines. My own personal trick is to take the air box off and 
push the metering flap right down while someone cranks it, and as soon 
as the engine catches, let go. We had a car in with both a failed 
accululator and pressure regulator and this trick worked a treat.

When the primary reg fails, it's a single O-ring that needs replacing 
accessible by one nut.

Martin

content22207 wrote:

>Don't know if jumping the cold start valve will get around a failed
>check valve or primary pressure regulator, at least not without a VERY
>extended period of cranking. Jumping the RPM relay works, however. Ran
>into an owner at SEDOC '03 with a bad primary pressure regulator. Had
>been starting the engine with an ongoing stream of starter fluid for
>several minutes until fuel pressure built up. Jumping the RPM relay
>for a minute or two before cranking accomplished the same thing.
>
>BTW: Don't leave the RPM relay jumped after driving. The line in isn't
>switched. Fuel pump will continue to spin until the battery is dead.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>  
>





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