[DML] Re: Door Striker Pin
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[DML] Re: Door Striker Pin



The door should not touch the head of the pin. Slowly close the door
and watch if it is moved foward (or back) as the pin enters the latch.
The latch captures the shank of the pin, the head should not contact
the door or latch at all. Look at the head for shiny spots or
scratches. Look at the door and guides for scratches. These will tell
you if the head of the striker pin is hitting.(You can also use a
strip of paper between the door and the head of the pin). If you do
determine the head is hitting then you take out a washer (if you are
LUCKY and there is one or 2 there to take out!) The nut is captured
and will not fall out when you remove the pin. When you take a washer
out of one you may have to put it under the other. This is a kind of
trial-and-error adjustment. The door closes in an arc so it is not
easy to get the striker pin adjusted. Again, trial and error will get
the job done. When closing the door the front and rear latches should
both click at the same time. If you have old, dead door seals it will
not be easy to adjust properly. Do not close the door harder to
compensate for old, dead seals. They have to be replaced. The latches
actually click twice so make sure both front and rear locks get into
the second locking position without having to slam the doors. Make
sure you really tighten the striker (anchor) pins once you get the
adjustment right. If you can't get enough adjustment and the
fiberglass is in the way it can be trimmed to get more adjustment.
There are round rubber covers that can cover the bottom of the pin,
they glue on. If ther are no washers to take out you can grind the
head of the pin a little.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxx> wrote:
> I went through the same questions when I was adjusting my doors. The nut
> "should be" held in a little pocket behind the frame. Can you tell
if the
> striker pin is mounted against bare metal or is plastic under it.
When I was
>






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