I don't think it's so much a matter of who you buy your struts from, so much as it is that you do it consistently. Among the members of the midstate group, I think we had at least 4 different struts installed on our cars --including Grady's which I thought operated very nicely. When comparing the operation of them at our last get-together, I noticed a lot of differences between the manufacturers. Some were stronger than others at the beginning of the travel, some got much stronger at the end of the travel, some had dampeners at the top, and others were very consistent throughout. There were also big differences among the cars themselves: inner door seals, outer door seals, roof hinge resistance, and dragging roof seals. All these factors will affect the operation of your doors. Because there are mild differences among the vendors, when you find a strut you like, adjust the torsion bars to match it and keep buying the same struts. If you don't mind potentially adjusting the torsion bars every few years, then experiment with some others. Right now, 1063 is sporting some struts from Steger that are 3 years old and still chuggin'. I drive my car daily so they get a lot of cycles. I like the struts just fine, but I kind of wish they had a dampening valve at the top of travel. I've got the bar adjusted so they open fully with no bounce from approximately 60-80 degrees F, below about 60 they need a little help from me, and out in the beating sun they bounce just slightly above 80 degrees or so. For this reason, Toby's temperature compensating struts are particularly intriguing to me. Before sending your struts back, make sure nothing is obstructing the door opening movement. Spray some silicone lube an all the seals, the roof hinges, and strut mounts. If you need a torsion bar adjustment, get in touch with your local group (or you can come to my house near St. Louis!). I'll be looking forward to the door strut evaluation, and I imagine I'll be asking a lot of owners if I can play with their doors at DCS 06. Jake Kamphoefner 1063 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lacy" <heylacy@xxxxxxxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2005 10:57 AM Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Who has the best door struts? > Hi I just bought a 6 set of Gradys, and they wont lift door all the way up > and you have to help them up. One lifts higher that the other even when > switched. I take it that the standard answer from the venders I called is > that the tortion bars need adj. . but trading struts with another D owner > my doors work fine . All the way up without excessive bounce.I also have > alot of side to side and back in forth play when piston is in open > position, my old stocks struts did not have this play.Do you think I > should send back for refund and try another set? Thanks for your help, > lacy > > Tom Watkins <outatime81@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> I use P.J. Grady's struts. I prefer Rob's as they >> slow down at the top of the stroke eliminating the >> heavy bounce effect. Other's I have tried give far >> too much bounce at the top and I felt that I may be >> damaging something. Others I have used felt way to >> strong when closing the door. Fear of bending the >> pins caused me to take them off and stick with Rob's. > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/