Just remove everything, lay it out on the floor, and "go to town" on it. Trying to do this kind of work with the parts still in the car is extremely difficult and you do it only if you have to, like a stud on the cylinder head, if you can get at it reasonable well enough to do it accurately. From my experience the only thing that works consistantly is an acetalyne torch. If you can get at the parts without melting everything nearby, you heat the part up to cherry red and remove it while it is still hot. Every other technique runs a very high risk of breaking all the fasteners. I HATE EXHAUST WORK! It is always dirty, hot, and messy. Parts are hard to get to and you wind up having to replace most everything. Use Never-Seize on all the threaded fasteners when reassembling so it will come apart for the next guy (it may be YOU). The vendors sell better studs, nuts, and gaskets than the origional stuff so ask them for it. For the right side exhaust manifold you get a lot more room to work if you remove the starter and alternator. You will probably need a new heat stove too. It is that cover over the manifold to heat the air for the air intake when cold. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cambpd" <cambpd@xxxx> wrote: > > > Does anyone have experience replacing the exhaust crossover pipe > gasket off the right exhaust manifold? I tried soaking in penetrating > oil, heating, and finally tried drilling out the studs connecting the > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/